1997 CL 3.0

Ok I saw the other thread about brake pads bought my pads and I have no idea how to install them, I want to learn how to this sort of stuff myself. So can someone post up some detailed instructions on how to change the front/rear pads. Also I know my rear pads are down almost to nothing they're starting to squeal and I tightened up my parking brake by removing the center armrest and tightning the bolt now the brake squeals on occaision when i'm accelerating or when I'm cornering, I've loosened the bolt again but it still happens on and off again what should I do.


Thanks

Alvin

NOMAD

You should not just replace the pads only. Either replace the rotors as well or get a shop to ReSurface them. If you put new pads on old rotors you have bad brakes, squealing etc.

See if you can have ashop install the brakes with your components and let you watch.

jttoombs

Alvin,
I just changed out my rear brakes by myself two weeks ago and it was no fucking easy task at first. Now I can do one wheel per 45 min. I can lead you through it but first I need to know which wheels your going to do the front the back or both pairs. Take a look at your rotors to first run your finger allong both sides of them if their relatively smooth with no worn in grooves they dont need to be resurfaced. Also look for anything that looks like a silhoutte of your brake on the rotor. IF you see it that means you were breaking under extreme stress and you might need new rotors as well as definently needing new brakes. I dad this happen to my front brakes. I took pics of my rear install so I can email you so you can see the specifics, however from experience the rear brakes are much easier to change than the front brakes.

1997 CL 3.0

I'll be doing front and back, my front are around 15% or so but one of rear's are near non-existance.

you can email me at alvinseetoh@telus.net

Thanks.

jttoombs

Im sorry I scimmed your post,

Change your brakes now!!!!!!!! if they squeel when you accelerate or corner it will just gets worse and begin to squeel under normal driving over 20 mph constantly. Also you can mess up your rotors if you dont change the brakes those squelers dig into the rotor if you dont change your pads.

Your gonna need
A socket wrench with different heads 8-16mm Youll be using 12-14mm for sure and you may need 8-10mm if you have problems and need to loosen other things
Youll need mechanics wrenches in the same mm sizes and a hammer to hit the wrenches with. Its hard to loosen the bolts at first.
Two jacks and some cinder blocks or large log.
Gloves
Tylenol

1st loosen lug nuts on ground


2nd Your gonna set up two jack, yes two for stability reasons. Your gonna have to get in your wheel well and really use some force so you dont want the car to fall on you and cut your arm off. I also suggest placing some safety catch under the front like cinder blocks or a wooden log something that will keep the car from killing you if the jacks should topple over and drop the car.
Dont worry Ive never had a problem but its safety first and go buy some mechanix gloves or equivalent your gonna need em for protection.

3rd Remove lugs nuts and tire and boom their are your stock rotors and caliper. All the necessary bolts are screwed in from behind the rotor facing towards you.

4th Grab a flashlight and look behind the caliper yes you have to crawl in there thats why you have a support system. Your looking for two bolts that hold the caliper assembly to the back of the rotor. Find these they should be 14 mm I believe. Your going to need one of those mechanic style wrenches at first two turn them which youll have to hit with a hammer to turn loose. Remember lefty loosey rightey tightey when it comes to nuts and bolts.

5th After you remove the two bolts you can pull the brake caliper off (when working on the rear disengage the emergency brake at this point and then they will come off) Now look at the caliper you will see two bolts holding it together they are 12mm bolts and only one comes off find it remove it. The caliper will seperate into a top and side halve and a bottom and side halve.

6. You can pull the caliper left piece away from the right piece its ok. Remove the old brakes, then take brake rotor and pad cleaner and spray. Make sure to stand back this stuff is like liquid fire it really hurts if it gets on your skin. Let dry for five mins.

7. On the caliper piece closest to the engine youll see a metal cylinder sticking out your going to need to depress this. Its almost impossible to do for the front, I suggest an adjustable clamp and bleeding the brakes (Ill explain later). The rear is easier to do since you can use a large screw driver to depress this cylinder. Insert pads with clips on the inside of the caliper so they are located closer to the engine. The other pad goes on the other side of the caliper. This is tricky I suggest pulling the squeeler apart so you can use it to keep the inner pad in place then assemble into one piece and place on rotor all the way down and push toghether and rebolt the 12mm bolt. Put 14mm bolts back in and tighten using socket driver.

8. Replace tire, drink a beer, cuss, repeat for next side.

Bleeding the brakes youll see a black rubber cap on the assembly remove it turn bolt with 8mm wrench let it ooze for a while into a bucket or whatever, retighten to stop flow bleeding the breaks reduces the pressure to caliper valve make it easier to insert into the assembly

Hope this helps and seriously make sure you have that car suppored properly if you dont feel comfortable doing it yourself just take it to your mechanic he'll only be charging you for labor right. And if your a working man (40 hrs +) cconsider what 5 hours of your time is worth to you, you may want to reconsider a mechanic. If you want to learn yourself this is the best way to do it good luck.

jttoombs

When I said lefty loosey right tightey for bolts just remeber thats from the bolts head orientation so if your sitting opposite the bolt and its screwed in towards your direction turn to the right.