AEM CAI 98-01 instead of 94-97

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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 03:08 PM
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AEM CAI 98-01 instead of 94-97

Hey anybody with a 2.3 did you buy a AEM CAI for the 94-97 Accord with the F22 or the 98-01 Accord with the F23A. Im buying one next pay check and i noticed everyone recomends 94-97 is there a difference is the 98-01 bigger or different? I mean the 98-2002 LX and EX Accord have our exact 2.3 Liter engine. My mom has a 2001 EX and it is 95% identical in layout to our 98 2.3s
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 03:14 PM
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Same engine, but different engine bay and body, so it might not fit.
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 03:18 PM
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Theyre pretty damn close as far as engine bay layout I mean right at 95% and the 5% is just accounted for by the difference in parts used and the way things look, but my moms airbox, snorkel and resonator are similar to mine in placement so I figure why not use the intake made for our throttle body and engine.
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 03:25 PM
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get the 94-97 accord. Fits perfect. I have it. BTW how do u like ur denso iridiums? Any difference. They claim a 5hp increase? is that bull sh*t??
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 03:49 PM
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LOL, well I ordered four and my dad broke one so I have three denzos now and one wal mart splitfire no shit (Im saving for I/H/E). But yeah they work great and they give a little balls to the car too. I got better acceleration or throttle response anyway. I dont have a dyno jet, any dyno software, or one of those G meter things so I couldnt tell you the exact number but for reliable performance for at least 60,000 miles Id get the plugs.

BTW I noticed more power at first when I installed it, now it feels like its dying down but that might be because of the OBDII detuning my car or Im just used to it now. Anyway Im gonna unplug my battery reset my ecu to see if there is a real performance increase. I purchased mine from racelab or racinglab.com (something like that affeileated with yahoo) for $13 bucks a pop and they were all worth it and shipping was really cheap. The model # is IK16

Youll need a 12mm socket drive and an extension bar to change the plugs though and Id definenyly buy some thread compound. Its a brown paste you put on the threads to keep them from seezing up and you should use it when ever you do any bolting on. Also a di-electric gel will help your car out you just boot it both sides of each plug wire. You can get all this stuff at any auto store for under $15.
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 01:13 PM
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thanks i have all the tools at home. My dads a mechanic and i usually work on cars too. Thanks for the imput. I might change them out later. I just got my NGK plat like a month ago.
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 01:55 PM
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I noticed a difference with the Iridiums at first too, but that did not last. I wonder if I got used to it or they stopped being as good?
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 03:01 PM
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Hey AtlCl did you ever read that thread originally from the prelude forum about how our OBDII ECU's eventually detune our mods. I suspect this has a lot to do with it since plugs are part of the detanation cycle. Check out the post if you haven't seen it. I dont think they stop being as good not for at least 40-50 thousand miles. You might just be used to it.
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 03:06 PM
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Should I just go and reset my ECU?
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 03:09 PM
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Yeah but if you unplug your battery to do that your gonna have to enter the radio code and reprogram the clock, In that post I mentioned they described a way to cut the memory off on the ecu. So your car stays tuned the way you want it, however when ever you reset the ecu your gas mileage decreases a little. Because the ECU has to relearn how to work
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