best oil brand to use for 1998 2.3cl
05-30-2002, 09:26 PM
#1
2nd Gear
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best oil brand to use for 1998 2.3cl
Just purchased a 1998 2.3cl automatic trans and Iam very happy with the car. Want to take the best care of the car possible but need to know what would be the best brand of oil to use.
(ie: Valvoline ,Pennzoil,Quakerstate etc...) Also does anyone know if using ZMAX as an oil additive helps with engine performance.
(ie: Valvoline ,Pennzoil,Quakerstate etc...) Also does anyone know if using ZMAX as an oil additive helps with engine performance.
05-30-2002, 11:02 PM
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i like chicken
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any of the top brands are fine for any car on the road. changing your oil is more important than the oil you use.
even cheap brands are around for a reason. oil is not something joe schmoe off the streets can manufacture. to even compete with the big oil companies they are buying a ton of it in bulk. and the oil works or they would be gone, kinda like cell phone companies, after a few years. i used the wal mart shit for the prism and the caddy. never have any problems.
i refuse to even switch to synthetic because i think its all a crock of shit. if and when its time to get rid of a car due to the demise of the engine working properly, do you think if you used a different motor oil it would be working correctly? hell no, its f*cked cuz the oil was changed every 12K, and it wasnt cared for.
yes, there are differences in oil, but will you ever notice the difference in performance, longevity, and cooling if you take care of everything else under the hood? no.
remember prolong when it came out many years back. what a crock of shit, apparently driving a viper around a race track with no oil. stupid asses, i see a prolong banner once in a while in the city on old beat up rangers that looked like they were purchased new when the garbage shit first came on the market 10 years ago. looks like they made alot of money!
ok, im bored, and finally, dont worry about additives until you get up around the 90,000 - 100,000 mile range. regardless of what your dad and his motorhead buddies who drink beer and talk about busting motor mounts while racing their front jumping duster in the 60's say, engines today, though mostly entirely computer driven, are built to last longer than they were 20-30 years ago.
thank toyota for bringing 4 bangers to the states in the late 70's during the energy crisis to save everyone money. bedtime. i hope you enjoyed!
even cheap brands are around for a reason. oil is not something joe schmoe off the streets can manufacture. to even compete with the big oil companies they are buying a ton of it in bulk. and the oil works or they would be gone, kinda like cell phone companies, after a few years. i used the wal mart shit for the prism and the caddy. never have any problems.
i refuse to even switch to synthetic because i think its all a crock of shit. if and when its time to get rid of a car due to the demise of the engine working properly, do you think if you used a different motor oil it would be working correctly? hell no, its f*cked cuz the oil was changed every 12K, and it wasnt cared for.
yes, there are differences in oil, but will you ever notice the difference in performance, longevity, and cooling if you take care of everything else under the hood? no.
remember prolong when it came out many years back. what a crock of shit, apparently driving a viper around a race track with no oil. stupid asses, i see a prolong banner once in a while in the city on old beat up rangers that looked like they were purchased new when the garbage shit first came on the market 10 years ago. looks like they made alot of money!
ok, im bored, and finally, dont worry about additives until you get up around the 90,000 - 100,000 mile range. regardless of what your dad and his motorhead buddies who drink beer and talk about busting motor mounts while racing their front jumping duster in the 60's say, engines today, though mostly entirely computer driven, are built to last longer than they were 20-30 years ago.
thank toyota for bringing 4 bangers to the states in the late 70's during the energy crisis to save everyone money. bedtime. i hope you enjoyed!
05-31-2002, 03:34 AM
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kee-master
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i thought the owner's manual says we should use 5w-30? i actually don't have a clue what these numbers mean... but i have 5w-50s synthetic in my car..
hg
hg
Originally posted by dustbuster4
I'm not sure which is the "best", but I've been using Mobil 1 (10W-30) for a decade.
I'm not sure which is the "best", but I've been using Mobil 1 (10W-30) for a decade.
05-31-2002, 03:47 AM
#7
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i use redline 5-30
royal purple......i think has some issues w/ funny marketing
scheme
just make sure to change your oil often enough...and like ross says, use a good name brand...
hougee......5-50? maybe u should use 3-50....like it says in manual.......alsoo,,,sorry i didnt call ya yet...been busy, but i do want them stickers...for sure!
royal purple......i think has some issues w/ funny marketing
scheme
just make sure to change your oil often enough...and like ross says, use a good name brand...
hougee......5-50? maybe u should use 3-50....like it says in manual.......alsoo,,,sorry i didnt call ya yet...been busy, but i do want them stickers...for sure!
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05-31-2002, 10:36 AM
#9
Instructor
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i 'm an engineer for a company that last year became a distributor for RP's industrial lubricants. (we don't sell their motor oil, so this isn't a marketing email! 
)
Many of our customers (including several refineries that make their own mineral-based oils) have re-written their plant lubrication specs and have entirely switched to RP's synthetic lubricants. They are seeing huge (10's of thousands of dollars a year) energy savings, their equipment is running quieter and simply exhibiting longer mean-time-between-repairs.
RP has been around for a while, they're just starting to market a little more aggressively now. Its a good product, it really does micro-polish metal surfaces (i've seen this first hand) and allow equipment to run smoother and cleaner.
I do use the 10W-30 in my car, and that has helped reduce my engine's oil consumption problem. I can't say i've noticed a huge HP boost, but on a 150HP engine I don't think 2-3HP would be very noticable. You can safely go 10K between oil changes as long as you change the oil filter every 3-4K. (although if you do switch to RP, they recommend doing the 1st oil change at 3-4K since the micro polishing of the engine will put extra crap and dirt in the oil when you first use it)
)Many of our customers (including several refineries that make their own mineral-based oils) have re-written their plant lubrication specs and have entirely switched to RP's synthetic lubricants. They are seeing huge (10's of thousands of dollars a year) energy savings, their equipment is running quieter and simply exhibiting longer mean-time-between-repairs.
RP has been around for a while, they're just starting to market a little more aggressively now. Its a good product, it really does micro-polish metal surfaces (i've seen this first hand) and allow equipment to run smoother and cleaner.
I do use the 10W-30 in my car, and that has helped reduce my engine's oil consumption problem. I can't say i've noticed a huge HP boost, but on a 150HP engine I don't think 2-3HP would be very noticable. You can safely go 10K between oil changes as long as you change the oil filter every 3-4K. (although if you do switch to RP, they recommend doing the 1st oil change at 3-4K since the micro polishing of the engine will put extra crap and dirt in the oil when you first use it)
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