Hi guys,

Need to replace my CV boot and I need the exact diameter of the driver side CV axle nearest to the outter most CV boot for a 1997 3.0CL.

Thanks so much ahead of time

 

ok now this doesn't answer your question, but why/how are you changing just the boot?

I have both sides with ripped boots and immediately in my mind said, uhg new axles! Which isn't an easy job. I would think changing the boots would be pretty much the same job but possibly harder since you have to take the u-joint off the axle.

I figure is easier/better to just change the whole half shaft.

 

Agree with ^^. Just go buy new axles, its easier and will last longer.

 

haha $50 brand new http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1000023k534779
I think this is what I'm going to do.. gonna get cold soon.

btw, with that link just let it load, it takes about 20 seconds or so. I've gotten parts through this company before.

 

So turns up the Dorman Quick Boot is a total POS. Was too long to fit between the strut fork and ended up splitting perpendicular to the weld.

I was actually super lucky I found it really early cause I take very good care of my car. I checked my CV joint and it was perfect, almost brand new. Took it in and got a new CV OE replacement boot put on. Cheaper than f*cking around with re-man axles cause i know this setup I have is flawless.

Hopefully this helps anyone who can use that damn search button!

 

all those quick boot things are complete shit, i've always replaced the axle..

i've driven on torn boots for some time b4 replacing em.. lol

 

Def looking at the quick boot I could tell it was shit, but no harm in trying right? I was really lucky because the old CV boot hadnt ruptured, it was split but not all the way through. The clamp had losened slightly and grease was slowly coming out of the transaxle side of the axle. So I was super lucky...and zero dirt got in cause it was only a 1.5km (1mile) trip to the garage. Also was not necessary to change axle either and possible get a shitty axle.