The more I find out about the damn Bose system the more confused I get !

Ok i have a first gen 1997 CL 3.0 with the Premium so I know I have the Bose system (other than the fact every speaker says "bose" on it) and my question relates to adding subs to the system. What's the most simple cost-effective way just to get more kick outta the system. I don't have enough money to upgrade all at once so i'll start just with subs and swap the rest out at a later date. What suggestions do you guys have on how to add more bass(i'm thinking either 2 10" or 1 12" nothing extreme)to the existing system. Also if anyone has any experiance with just changing the individual components i'd be interested in hearing about it.

Comments and suggestions are welcome

Thanks

 

hey dude, u live in BC as well ? ho ho ! i used to live in coquitlam too, but now i live in New WEst. I have the same car as you, except a 99 !

Just saying Hi !

 

I have changed all the speakers in my car, including the tweeters, plus added one 12" boston sub. Everything sounds fine, the only thing is that with the bose amp still in there my volume knob is kind of limited due to the difference in the impedance of the speakers. It sounds amazing though... just enough kick and plenty of smooth highs. The best way to hook up some subs is to tap off of the rear speakers or right to the outputs of the amp (located behind the carpeting, just behind the jack on the right hand side of trunk). I went from the outputs of the amp and there was also the remote turn on right there too. As far as the speakers go, the rear ones come out by removing 2 nuts and 2 screws from each grille from the underside of the rear deck (just crawl right in there upsidedown and stare at the bottom of the rear deck, you'll see them). then from the top there is 4 screws holding each speaker in. The front speakers are fairly simple, just pop the bottom of the grilles off and theres your crappy bose speaker held in by 4 screws, one is hard to get to... try popping part of the door panel off. The tweeters are very easy to get to, just use a long flat head screw driver and pop the assembly out and un-plug it. There, I think i got it all... if I missed anything email me and I can go into more detail, sorry everyone else for such a long post.

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1997 ACURA 3.0 CL PREMIUM

Apex-i cat-back Exhaust, AEM Intake, Clear Bumper Lenses, 18" ADR Cyrax rims, Ground Control Coilovers, Wings West Chin Spoiler, Acura Rear spoiler, Piaa Fog Lights, Tinted Windows, Boston Acoustics tweets, mids and subs.

 

Hi Hi,
Hm ...... Finally see some guys from B.C.
Well ... We see so many CLs on the street, but not many know we have a forum for it. There are many CL meets going on in US only. I wonder if we can do it too in B.C.

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E50
3.0CL
Razo shift Knob / Pedals
Eibach springs
17' Momo wheels with 235/40/17 Bridgestone Potenza S02

 

http://www.revscene.net

There's a couple (2) i think guys with CL's on that local board in the vancouver area

 

Ok... I can answer ur question pretty well. I've had 1 12 JLw4 in the car, than I switched to 2 JL 10 W0's, than back to 2 12's JL W3's than I switched to 2 12 Solobarics.

Go for 1 12. I had 800 watts going to 2 10's and it was nothing compared to 1 12.

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1997 Acura 2.2 CL (5spd)
rubber tires, windshield wipers, headlights, horn, steering wheel, BRAKE PEDAL, clutch, brake pads, driver seat, passenger seat, back seat, front windshield, rear windshield (with defroster), lumbar support, cruise control, intermitent wiper control, sun roof (tinted), engine, pistons (only 4), emergency brake handle, trunk w/ tools, spare tire

 

I've been looking around for a fix for my stock stereo.
The damm thing gets all distorted when I start to crank it up (with rap music, lots of bass. All my metal sounds just fine)

Any suggestions?

Also, my driver side door panel rattles something crazy. It's missing a screw, but I don't know either the screw size or if it's a bolt or what.

Clearly, I'm a noob. Any suggestions?

 

dynamat will stop your rattle, and replcing your screw will as well. it gets all distorted because your running high's and lows through the same speaker. get a sub, have it run low's only and put the highs through your interior speakers. your other option is upgrading to component speakers, that way your highs and lows have different cones and wont get distorted.

 

Distorted? Kinda like a flappy sound when the bass hits hard? Are you using CDs, FM transmitor, or AUX adapter? You might want to check your MP3 player equalizer and make sure everything is normal if that's what your using.

 

I am using CD's.

Stereo is entirely stock, hence why I can't play any mp3 devices through it.

Also, wtf is dynamat?

And I've no idea what type of screw to use, the manual doesn't give the size

Thanks guys.

 

I have an Alpine headunit, an alpine amp, and 1 12' alpine sub, hooked up w/ my factory bose components...and it's perfect. It hits just enough and still has the mids and the highs.

I have dynamat to keep my trunk for sounding like a hot mess - especially the license plate, and all you hear outside of the car is the kick from the bass, no vibrations baby!