Amp Interface????
Amp Interface????
hey guys when i went to my local car audio shop, they told me the best way to put in my new headunit would be to put in an amp interface. the guys seemed liek he knew what he was talking about and said it would turn the amp on and off and make it work with the aftermarket speakers. never heard of this on here so i figured id ask u guys... o and he charged 60 bucks for the interface(which goes behind the hu)
it goes behind the hu? so you cant see it? hmm i dunno..never heard of that before..might be fuckin wit you...but who knows...technology is always changing...lets see what other people say...
Probably talking about what is basically a fancy line output converter for deck installs. It's not worth the money, better off just bypassing the amp. I've used one before, it was stupid and a waste of time imo.
its probably this exact thing
http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=741
http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=741
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Well I am not sure who taught him, but the only wires you will be cutting are at the amp itself. Just leave the leads on the connectors long enough that they could be reconnected if for some odd reason it was required. The harness behind the radio should be left uncut. But bose amps + aftermarket equipment on both ends (deck and speakers) = poopie. If you're concerned about losing sound quality, just pick up a 4 channel and call it a day. You will gain more power and quality from doing that.
wouldn't you have to rewire your system anyways, since bose amps use two ohm speakers, and most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm?..... I'd say not to get it, especially for 60 bucks, do what tehvine said and just buy a 4 channel amp if you don't want to run the speakers off of the HU.
Well he is using aftermarket speakers with the aftermarket deck. The blose amp will work with that stuff it it was integrated. The only thing is, the resistance of the speakers is going to be near doubled and the power output is going to suck... not to mention the amp will probably be pissed off at you and probably die before long. The only time I would integrate a factory amp is when I am doing JUST a deck and leaving the factory speakers.
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: ShitsBurgh
^^thats what i was thinking
im not familiar with an amp trigger?? i dont mess with factory interface stuff, its usually a headache with half-ass results, im used to doing my own audio and forget that some installers charge a couple hundred for rewiring cars.
im not familiar with an amp trigger?? i dont mess with factory interface stuff, its usually a headache with half-ass results, im used to doing my own audio and forget that some installers charge a couple hundred for rewiring cars.
Well triggering a factory amp is not anything special... I have yet to do such a thing in a CL but all you are doing is putting switched 12v to the amp turn-on lead. I know in the legend I did a while back, all I had to do was hook up your usual blue/white wire off the new deck to the solid blue power antenna lead in the aftermarket harness. One of the fords I did I had to hook up switched power to the factory sub turn-on wire and hardwire in RCA inputs so the customer could retain his factory sub.
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But there are amp triggers, it'd be easier than payin him to bypass your amp

