ABS Accumulator problem
08-18-2006, 02:31 PM
#1
Lear Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ABS Accumulator problem
I can't find the thread I need about this so I am throwing out a cry for help.
My son's car is failing an accumulator leak check on the ABS modulator. Can you replace just the accumulator, or do you have to buy the whole modulator?
690.00 with a 150.00 core. I'm guessing if you can replace just the cylinder (accumulator) it would be a lot less...
Rick
My son's car is failing an accumulator leak check on the ABS modulator. Can you replace just the accumulator, or do you have to buy the whole modulator?
690.00 with a 150.00 core. I'm guessing if you can replace just the cylinder (accumulator) it would be a lot less...
Rick
08-18-2006, 03:20 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
As far as I know you can replace just the accumulator. Get parts from
www.acuraautomotiveparts.org or www.acuraoemparts.com
Also, checkout www.honda-tech.com they have a lot of writeups about brake systems, including an o-ring fix for $1.50 that worked for a lot of guys abs systems
www.acuraautomotiveparts.org or www.acuraoemparts.com
Also, checkout www.honda-tech.com they have a lot of writeups about brake systems, including an o-ring fix for $1.50 that worked for a lot of guys abs systems
08-18-2006, 06:35 PM
#3
The accumulator has a small oring at the base that can leak externally and cause loss of fluid/pressure. I replaced the oring only on my daughter's 2.2CL w/ a match from a box of orings at auto parts store. If the leak is internal, the accumulator must be replaced. Cheapest way may be to simply replace the entire modulator w/ a used unit, or perhaps better pull the accumulator from a used unit and install on yours. You can usually find used modulators for < $100. Check car-part.com for units near you.
In either case you'll have to pull the modulator to repair. You'll need a 10mm flare tubing nut wrench to avoid rounding the tubing nuts w/ an open end 10mm wrench. Other than the wrench removal is straight forward. Bleed any pressure on accumulator w/ the bleeder on the modulator. I plug the modulator and tubing end openings to avoid any trash entry.
After re-installing, the modulator is self-bleeding as long as you keep the fluid level in modulator reservoir up. Note, you will have to bleed the wheel cylinders to remove trapped air in the brake lines. Bleed RR, LR, RF, LF lines sequentially untill clean fluid is returned.
good luck
In either case you'll have to pull the modulator to repair. You'll need a 10mm flare tubing nut wrench to avoid rounding the tubing nuts w/ an open end 10mm wrench. Other than the wrench removal is straight forward. Bleed any pressure on accumulator w/ the bleeder on the modulator. I plug the modulator and tubing end openings to avoid any trash entry.
After re-installing, the modulator is self-bleeding as long as you keep the fluid level in modulator reservoir up. Note, you will have to bleed the wheel cylinders to remove trapped air in the brake lines. Bleed RR, LR, RF, LF lines sequentially untill clean fluid is returned.
good luck
08-18-2006, 11:26 PM
#4
Livin' la vida CL
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
The accumulator has a small oring at the base that can leak externally and cause loss of fluid/pressure. I replaced the oring only on my daughter's 2.2CL w/ a match from a box of orings at auto parts store. If the leak is internal, the accumulator must be replaced. Cheapest way may be to simply replace the entire modulator w/ a used unit, or perhaps better pull the accumulator from a used unit and install on yours. You can usually find used modulators for < $100. Check car-part.com for units near you.
In either case you'll have to pull the modulator to repair. You'll need a 10mm flare tubing nut wrench to avoid rounding the tubing nuts w/ an open end 10mm wrench. Other than the wrench removal is straight forward. Bleed any pressure on accumulator w/ the bleeder on the modulator. I plug the modulator and tubing end openings to avoid any trash entry.
After re-installing, the modulator is self-bleeding as long as you keep the fluid level in modulator reservoir up. Note, you will have to bleed the wheel cylinders to remove trapped air in the brake lines. Bleed RR, LR, RF, LF lines sequentially untill clean fluid is returned.
good luck
In either case you'll have to pull the modulator to repair. You'll need a 10mm flare tubing nut wrench to avoid rounding the tubing nuts w/ an open end 10mm wrench. Other than the wrench removal is straight forward. Bleed any pressure on accumulator w/ the bleeder on the modulator. I plug the modulator and tubing end openings to avoid any trash entry.
After re-installing, the modulator is self-bleeding as long as you keep the fluid level in modulator reservoir up. Note, you will have to bleed the wheel cylinders to remove trapped air in the brake lines. Bleed RR, LR, RF, LF lines sequentially untill clean fluid is returned.
good luck
Way to go Tex! Good to see a wrench here...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SidhuSaaB
3G TL Problems & Fixes
18
05-30-2020 12:40 AM
