shnee

Keeping this quick and painless...
IF I keep my car, I'm thinking about putting maybe another $5k into it.
Advice, suggestions? Don't tell me to get rid of it, that's already a strong possibility (probably more so than keeping it).

What would you do with $5k on a 3.0 that you want to keep as reliable as possible?

incredulous1

new tranny?

GhettoNinja06

iTrader: (1)

a J32/6spd swap would be awesome but it'll probably cost you a little bit more than 5k. I'm sure Cocoa will chime in on this one.

shnee

Not counting that


I'd bet it is! Anyway, I'm not sure that fits with the major point of reliability, nor do I want to deal with a manual in the traffic I get into.




Keep it coming though

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

what do you have done to the car now?

& it sucks that your not down with stick cuz i'd definately do a 6spd swap + s/c

GhettoNinja06

iTrader: (1)

What are you looking for? Performance or visuals?

shnee

Not much really. Dropped on neuspeeds and kybs, 18s, ebay strut bars, tint, cai, etc.
And I'm pretty sure a 6 speed and supercharger would be way more than 5k

I was leaving that open to the great folks of AZ

But keep in mind I want to maintain reliability. The trans is getting rebuilt, so I don't want to have that go out again.

incredulous1

my honest opinion is to save your money for the next car. no sense in putting more cash into a car that will have a failing tranny over and over again.

shnee

The purpose of this thread is really not getting across...
Please assume the 5k is going into the car.
This isn't for sure what I'm doing, I just want to get some ideas.
Thanks.

jaredbhouston

iTrader: (1)

new wheels (even though i have no idea what you're currently sitting on) i'd say go with some that'll get your fitment nice. that always makes a car look dope. that'd be 1500~2500

3500~2500 left for other cosmetics. HIDs for less than 100. interior work? get some custom stuff done for whatever money you got left?

something like vw people do?





i'm not sure how much this stuff racks up to be...but its always sick. maybe a headliner and some door inserts or reupholstered seats? just some ideas. soon i'm going to be doing a wood floor in the trunk of my 3.0, so maybe you could do something like that too? i'm all for stuff that you wouldnt expect. i think a flush CL with cosmetics ideal for comfort and style would be sick.

but i'm all for performance oriented 3.2 swap too, with some boost

incredulous1

double bottle fed.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Please stop hijacking his thread about your new cars and what not, he is asking what would you do with 5K into THIS car, or what he should do if he keeps the car. He doesn't want to swap and is asking about mods to this car. Please keep it on topic.

Me personally, I would do what I did and replace the bushings and touch up the suspension, maybe some UR pullies, some new plugs and wires, new battery, new wheel bearings and front axles, make the car worth keeping. 5K could stretch a LONG way if you are trying to make the car nice and last. Perhaps a valve adjustment, and timing belt as well. If you want to talk mods just for looks, we can go that route too, maybe some lips, new rims, etc.

mattastick

I'd say some of the reliability stuff that Chris talked about, starting underhood then moving the rest of the drivetrain/suspension. From there, maybe a nice stereo upgrade (nothing better in traffic) and projos or something like that. Should eat up most of your budget... Anything left = savings for gas...

shnee

I really was considering some interior work, though my interior is in pretty good condition, except for one hole on the driver seat bolster. I've always wanted a two-tone on the seats. I looked around online and it seems a good job will eat up a good bit of that 5k, and I'm not sure if I want to dump that much into a simple two-tone. I was considering dye, but it would be weird to dye the seats and leave a hole in one. And if I'm going to reupholster one, I might as freshen up the other too. So then I'm back to redoing both seats, which turns out to cost a penny. I would love to do something though.

Wheels were also an idea, especially because all of mine are slightly bent and a bit rashy. But honestly I'm still pretty content with the style. If I came across a great deal on a set I might change it up, but I'm not really a huge wheel person honestly. If I were playing with a lot more than 5k, wheels would be included in the plans. Still a possibility, but I haven't seen anything that I really have to have. Any suggestions?

I do have an HID setup all prepared, just have to put it all together. I have TSX projos, philips ballasts and bulbs, a harness to go right to the battery, spare headlights, and bezels. I worked on them for a while but never found shrouds that I liked. I didn't want to seal them up without being 100% happy with them. I might have to get over that.

Just this October I got new bushings up front, sway links, front rotors and pads, brake flush, a control arm, a wheel bearing, spark plugs, set all engine specs, fuel system service, etc. Late last year I got a new engine mount, axle, rear rotors and pads, a brake caliper, new battery, and some other small shit too. Also got 4 new nice tires. Recently had a balance and alignment.
Now the rebuilt transmission is going into it. I think the AC is dead and I'm pretty sure my window motor is on its way out again. Other than that everything is pretty much set for a long ass time!

I was looking at maybe a lip kit. That might happen. Only thing making me think twice is I actually really like the OEM one's being black. Some lips would probably make me forget that though, I don't know.

Sound system is something I wasn't really thinking about, but is actually a great idea. The Bose system is getting worse and worse, and my JVC headunit is like 8 years old or something, though it works just as well as the day I got it.. for that reason I'd probably get another JVC.
Any suggestions on a setup? I am 100% noob when it comes to stereos.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I didn't realize you put all that work into the car, that would make me want to keep it, but I'm married to my CL anyway. What it really comes down to is what do you want to gain from the CL? Sounds like you have lots of ideas, I know just doing the retro made me love the car that much more from both looks and light output. I know you're back and forth, guess it all depends on what you want to do

shnee

Everything I want to do, I either want to do it right or not do it at all. That makes it harder to decide, because "doing it right" in my mind is doing everything I would want in that area. For example, body work. I've always figured if I'm going to get all the dents and scrapes repaired, I might as well do all the other body work I've always wanted. Then I think, well if the exterior is going to be all fresh and new, I'd want to do something nice with the interior too. By that time I'm way over budget, so I decide against doing anything at all.
That's just the stupid way my mind works.


The sound system is sounding like a good idea though. I feel like that can be done by itself and be done well without spending too much.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

5k....let me see.

I'd love to know what mods you have now so I know to not include them. But ehre goes anyways.

First thing I would do, is sit online and look for another J35A4 short block. I had found Chris one about 2 months back for under $600 shipped. The average for this short block runs about $400-$600 from what I've seen in the past. (be sure to use your stock crank positioning sensor)

Afterwards I would go ahead and order new CLS pistons which run about $55/each. You would need the piston rings, head gaskets and whatever else is recommended which I can't calculate the cost for, but let's assume $100.

This alone takes it to about $1,100.

I would then visit the site we can't mention and look for a s/c deal. I found one for roughly $1400 over the summer. Let's just assume it runs you $1,800 once you find the adapter and whatever else needed to fit.

This brings us to about $2,900.

I would then go about getting the CLS cams and having it machined. The cams and everything needed was about $250-$300 range. The machining will run about $150 delivered both ways.

Now we're at about $3,350.

This would leave us with the install on these parts. I can't predict/assume what a shop will charge you for this. This soley depends on whether you have "hook ups" or not.




But unfortunately this wouldn't be enough. You'd have to pick up some sort of piggy back (a used vafc will do and usually runs about $100+), and a good 3-5 hours of tuning (roughly $75-$100/hr). So this part alone could run you about $600 not including the install of the vafc. I would also look into Redline ATF and a tranny cooler.

Hope this helps.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Yep, that's why half my parts are in boxes or not on the car, because they're waiting for something else that's not bought yet, because when I do it, I want to do it right, hence why my build is taking so damn long

shnee

Wouldn't this stress the hell out of the tranny? It all sounds like a good idea but I'm worried to beat up on a brand new rebuild.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

Can't really give you a definite answer for that. When the power comes abruptly (like nitrous) then it can cause a lot of stress on the clutch packs. But with a s/c and this amount of additional power, it's going to be gradually increased throughout the power band and not all at once like nitrous. How you drive it (abusing power braking techniques, etc) and what you do for preventatives will determine the life of the tranny. But other times, you're just shit out of luck when it happens to be your turn again for another tranny. So again, I really don't know how to answer that. You need about 500 miles break in once you do rebuild that tranny though.

I'm a risk taker, and I simply can't calculate for that :P


But, you could leave the s/c out of the equation if you're worried about reliability of the tranny. The stroke, higher CR, and cams would give you some nice additional power to enjoy.


Edit: The guy from NY that had a s/c in his 1st gen 3.0 from about 5 years ago, does anyone remember if he had any issues with his tranny? Might be a good idea to find his name and look up his old threads. I believe he ran a 14.3.

mattastick

Stereos are easy. It all depends what you want to get out of the car. I did a small setup in my buddy's truck using a set of 6.5" components, head unit, and a small amp for like $500, and it sounds awesome. You can do something as simple as that, or you can go balls to the wall, and drop $2k in your stereo and have it sound beyond belief out of this world amazing... It's all in what you want to do...

If you've got any questions, feel free to ask, I'll be glad to help...

YtseJammer

Sell the neuspeed/kyb's and get a set of coilovers.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

You have the knack of finding these when I'm in my worst state financially, hopefully that will be ending soon. Wish I had 5K to play around with, my CL would be so much closer to being done. Damn home ownership.

Also cleaned up the off topic convo we were having since it wasn't relevent to anything

shnee

Considering the known unreliability of these trannies without any added power, and my own apprehension about adding more power to a rebuilt tranny, I don't think I'm going to add any power on a regular rebuild.
SO
I'm considering beefing it up so it can handle a bit more power, if I choose to add some down the line.
I'm figuring, if I drop 2k for a simple rebuild, why not drop a little more, make the tranny more reliable, and set myself up for added power later on.
If I do this, I will definitely keep the car, because I really have no worries about the car if the transmission is no issue.
I've read a lot of old threads about getting a stronger rebuild.
I've read about the Dr. Evil failing, so that seems like a lot of money and no peace of mind. I've read about the Alto Red Eagle clutch packs. I've read about a few other possibilities.
A few questions I have about this.
If I go with a stronger built trans, will I actually Need more power to make it shift correctly/comfortably? If it's built to handle a lot more power, will it actually require that much more power to work well?
Also, (this may be more of a question to ask the seller/builder) what will a warranty be like with this? My first thought would be that a rebuild with stronger parts would give me a better warranty. Is this wrong? Will power upgrades affect the warranty?
Is the torque converter included in this kind of stuff? Should I be worried about it too?

shnee

Just got off the phone about the trans. He said any significant power will definitely void the warranty, and that warranty is precious to me. He said about the extent I could do is intake, exhaust, etc. No nitrous, no supercharger, no swap, nothing like that.
So there goes the power mods. Maybe in 4 years/100k miles.

mattastick

Time for a stereo...

incredulous1

+1. might as well make the car sound nice (and look nice) now too.

shnee

I will upgrade the stereo system, but I will really need a lot of help. I have zero knowledge about the topic. I'm looking at you mattastick. Get ready for some questions.


I do want to get some quotes on at least fixing the exterior (rust spots, scrapes, dents, etc), so I'm not sure how much I'm putting toward a system.
Also, I really don't have a great ear for sound quality differences, so it would be stupid to go balls out on a setup. I know it's probably hard to make many suggestions without a price range. I don't really know what stuff goes for, or what all would be needed. I don't need or want to go bargain bin here, but I don't need or want top shelf stuff either. If it's more important to have quality one thing and not another, then I would buy accordingly.


The things that bother me about the Bose system is the lack of crispness and clarity. I don't know if those do or don't have specific meanings in the audio world, but that's how I'd describe it.
I don't care about how hard the bass can hit, but I would like it to be clear. There are a lot of instances where I have to turn my bass way down to really get anything out of the music.
I would really like for the different speakers to do their own jobs regarding range. I feel like the Bose system kind of puts everything through all the speakers, and that makes it not sound as crisp.
Physically, I would like for everything to drop into place as easily as possible, with zero to little modification. I don't want anything to be showy, and I would prefer if I can put the oem covers over the speakers.
As for a head unit, I don't really care as long as it's not going to break easily and it is easy to use. Something that can use sandisk or usb drive would be neat. My JVC unit has been great - never any problems, easy to use, and has a physical knob to control the volume instead of buttons (never understood why someone would want buttons).
I don't know if this is an issue, but I'd want to make sure there is not a big draw from the battery.
I also need to get rid of whatever the hell causes shit to rattle.
What about buying new vs used? Is there good reason to buy new?
Will the wiring all need redone? Right now speakers go in and out, and I'm assuming that means some wires are loose somewhere.
Should I leave everything to a professional, or could a noob like myself tackle it with some instructions?

mattastick

First off, audio installs are really easy, if you take your time and do research before going out and spending thousands of dollars on gear and such. That being said, the first time I ever replaced speakers in my car, I put in an amp, re-ran all new wire, components, everything. The full works. It wasn't hard, and only took me 2-3 nights to do all of the work.

As for questions, bring them on. I'll be more than happy to answer what I know, and research what I don't. If you ask something, and I don't know the answer, I'll do my best to find out for you.

It sounds like you could get away with a basic component set, small amp for those, and a nice head unit. For the head unit, I'd suggest the Alpine CDA-9886. It's a very solid unit, with separate controls for USB, Ipod, and has an aux input, if you had some other media for you wanted to use. It also has a very nice sound quality to it, even if the internal equalizer is lacking. For the components, that's all a matter of personal choice. Some people love Infinity's. Personally, I hate them. I like the sound of a Pioneer comp set much better, but there are people that will tell you that Pioneer sounds like garbage. Your best bet here is to go to an audio shop or something like that and listen to speaker combination's to find out what you like. As for amps, you can find several small footprint amps that could be mounted anywhere. If you choose to replace the rear speakers (which, with a good component set are not even needed) then you might look into a 4 channel amplifier. If you're only going to be running front speakers (which I've been doing for the last ~10 months with 0 complaints) then you can get away with a 2 channel amp.

When it comes to amp brands, there's several good companies out there. The one I tend to stick with is Sundown Audio. They are a lesser known company, outside of the competition circles, but they build amazing amps that are efficient as no other and have some of the best Customer Service in the industry. If you're looking to amp both front and rear speakers, their SAX-100.4 would be a very solid choice. You could also run the Bravox EXS6 6.5" midbass in the rear 6x9 holes, and this would give you a bit more low end than your average component set. Plus the 100.4 is enough power for most comp sets that will be in what I assume your price range will be. If you only want to amp the fronts, either the SAX-50.4 or the SAX-125.2. Both of those are also great amps.

The rattles are caused by stuff vibrating against each other. To fix this, you're going to need what's called Sound Deadener. The best in the business is Second Skin Audio (www.secondskin.com). Their Damplifier Pro is the industry standard, but it also costs quite the pretty penny. If you can afford it, it's definitely the route to go. If not, Raamaudio Raamat is a solid alternative, and is much cheaper. I put 3 sheets of Damp pro on each door, and gained .5 dbs with my competition setup. It may not sound like much, but we're out there looking for every last .1db, so to gain .5 is a huge deal.

I think I got to most of your questions. I'll check back in the morning when I get to work. Right now it's time to get some sleep. Gotta leave the house in 7 hours for work...

mattastick

So I forgot to talk about wiring. 16 ga speaker wire should be fine, just make sure it's good stuff (Knukonceptz, stinger, etc). Personally, I have 12 ga Stinger. You'll also need an amp wiring kit. 4 ga should be fine for any of the amps I listed. Knukonceptz (www.knukonceptz.com) has some nice ones for pretty cheap ($50 or so). That being said, I'd re-run all the speaker wire for your components. It's really not that difficult, and it helps so much. Stock speaker wire is maybe 22ga, whereas with some good 16ga, your speakers will see more of the power they deserve.

You shouldn't have any problems running a 4 channel amp off of the stock battery. You shouldn't have any problems with electrical till you get up north of 800w or so, but that all depends on your alternator and battery and how good of shape they're in. But like I said, you should have no problems running any of the Sundown amps I suggested on your completely stock electrical system.

I forgot to post it earlier, but sundown's website is www.sundownaudio.com.

shnee

My brother gave me his Alpine CDA-9857 tonight for free, with all packaging and everything. Looks new but isn't.
Will this be good? Certainly has to be better than my current unit.
Will there be any wiring issues?

mattastick

Alpine's are very solid head units. I loved my 9884, but sold it for a Pioneer for competition purposes. The CDA-9857 looks to be (from the manual) a very nice hu. Assuming you have the wiring harness that plugs into the back of the hu, all you need is the other end that attaches to the Acura. Since you have an aftermarket hu already, you can just use that one.

A word of advise here. If you're going to try and sell your current hu, you'll want to leave most of the wiring harness attached to the JVC. If you're not going to try and sell it, then cut right at the connection point. I personally solder all of my head unit connections. A lot of people stand by butt-connectors, but I personally hate those. I've had too many fail on me to continue using them. Going along with the cutting of your current harness, I don't like any more connections than need to be there. Personally, I've changed the hu in my Acura more times than I can count. All using the same harness. Although now, my harness is 10' long so I can take the hu outside the car for competitions, so I don't think I'll have the problem of running out of wire anytime soon.

In case you don't have the manual for that hu, here it is: http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Man...500CDA9857.PDF

ethenol

Cocoa has all your engine upgrades taken care of that would be a strong set up. Our trannys can be ver very very strong if built a done correctly. I have much time and money on these yes I have moved on to a new platform. With that being said if you are interested I can send you in the right direction for that but plan to spend some money. The last one I had built lasted 3 years but it also cost 3500 dollars but I beat the shit out of that tranny. and it still worked the clutches just started to go.