So my 2009 tsx is lowered with HnR springs and after I got an alignment, they told me the rear is in need of a camber kit.

Does anyone know any websites or places where I can get them? what is the average cost for rear camber kits? linking the links here would help alot!!

 

Front and rear: http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-11-Accord...ht_2060wt_1037

Rear: http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-11-Accord...#ht_1964wt_956

 

how negative is your camber? those links above are for the complete set. if you want to save money just by the camber arms.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GODSPEED-08-...ht_3194wt_1396

 

dont be too worried tho. as long as your toe is straight you should only have a bit of tire wear on the inside. check out this article from heavy duty a few yrs back

Here it is cut & pasted;

The main reason for the type of tire wear you see is because the Toe is incorrect. You can destroy a set of tires in no time if you don't set the toe correctly. Camber induced wear is so so so so insignificant relative to toe induced wear. If you set the toe properly and rotate the tire faithfully you can get significant life out of the tires. I have set up dozens of vehicleswith suspensions like the classic and 200sx. I have found that 1 to2degrees can be used in an daily driver without significantly affecting tire life. In fact I have had significantly lengthened the life of many tires by setting up the alignment to suit the drivers style.

Try the following experiment.
1. Get a roll of toilet paper. (any brand will suffice. preferably unused.)

2. Stick something into the center of the roll It needs to long enough to grab hold of on each side of the roll. This will bethe axle/hub. The roll must be able to rotate freely.

3.Draw a straight line about 4foot long on a section of concrete.Needs to be concrete or asphalt. Preferable in front of the house or other publicplace. This line simulates the direction the vehicle travels (thrust line).

4.Kneel.

5.Say "I'm not worthy, Ken is great" 3 times the loudest you can or until a crowd gathers. Remember to have the roll held highabove you.

6.Place the roll on the concrete so it will roll along the line ifpushed.

7.Grab both ends of item you inserted into the hole (the axle/hub).

8. Roll toilet paper along line. This represents a tire with zero toe.It moves smoothly and there is little wear to the paper roll.

9.Now lift one side of the axle up. get it as close to 45degrees asyou can. this simulates a high degree of camber.

10. Roll along line. look for wear. Should be fairly slight.

11.Remove camber from "tire". Turn the tire 45 degrees to simulate a turn. The axle should be 45 degrees relative to the straight line you drew inthe concrete. This stimulates an incorrect (rather exaggerated) toe situation.

12. while keeping the axle at a 45 degree angle to the thrust line. Push the tire along the thrust line while keeping the axle at a45 degree angle. Remember to keep the same pressure on the axle as youdid in the line 8 and 9. After going the distance look at tire. This isyour tire on incorrect toe settings. Not good.

13. If you still don't get it grab a beer and another roll and start over. Remember to emphasize step 5.

There are a lot of different things which can affect your alignment.Just because your vehicle is within "specs" doesn't mean it will track straight or have great tire wear. There are very very few mechanics who canreally do a good alignment. A good (a knowledgeable and Honest)technician will not give you that line of bull that the vehicle is within specs. It is only to coverhis/her/its shitty job. Period! A wrecked vehicle will play havoc with the alignment, but I don't believe that is your case.

If the car was wrecked between the time that it drove straight and when the alignment was done then he might have a case. Otherwise it is simple incompetence or mistake. There are many tricks to get the alignment right. It looks that he didn't even test drive it. good luck Hope it makes it through the filter the first try.

Ken Nord
91 Classic
71 Z
83 Katana

 

Woah, I'm lowering mine with H&R's this week also and didn't want to hear this, lol. Any-who, let me know what you decide to do. I'll probably end up buying the front and rear kits if I end up needing them. What wheel and tire specs are you running?

 

I'm on springs but my alignment sheet says i have about 9 degrees of camber so I didn't bother buying these kits which I have considered for a while but my toes are good so I'm just gonna roll with them

 

Whatever you do, please, please, please do NOT buy generic camber kits. The links are holding your wheel to the car for God sakes!

Ingalls or SPC are the way to go. Even if you don't buy them from us.

Also, 9 degrees of negative camber? I think you missed a decimal point.

 

I didn't do my homework on Acurazine either, lowered my car on Eibach springs, and 1 week later my $300 tires were all shredded. I got new tires for $1200 and the official FULL Eibach alignment kit front/rear for $800 and now my tires are perfect.

Lesson learned, always do research before modding. Make sure you get the full $800 H&R alignment kit.

 

Why do you define these as generic? ive had "generic" ones on my last 2 cars and would buy them again.

-.9 degrees is not that much. i was about -2 on my stechs. i bought the 6pc "generic" kit and i have no complaints in 6 months time. quality is great. ive taken at least 2 road trips with them. i have nothing against SPC or Inaglls, they are popular for a reason, but they are not the only way to go.

 

Factory range for alignment for camber is like -.2 or something to -1.5, factory spec. I have the full SPC kit in the back for camber and toe, and have it checked every 6 months.

 

Factory camber in the rear is -1.

 

I have the papers with the alignment check, toe, and all that stuff. Not sure what my numbers are but I will be sure to take a picture of it tomorrow and post it up here

 

Here is the paper work

Is it really necessary for a rear camber kit?

 

No, it's not.

 

How come? I was told that I need one

 

im lowered an tein ss and i have negative camber. WHen i went for alignment they got toe back to factory specs but not the camber which was expected without any aftermarket kits/parts

 

What he's saying is you don't NEED a camber kit but by the looks of your report you'll probably want one if you want to get back to factory spec. Your toe is off and that's what kills the tires. I got this one-arm SPC kit from throwdown after my eibach prokits:

http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=161

 

So the only thing I need to do is get the Toe fix right?

How is the toe suppose to be fix? or how do you fix it?

 

The shop that does your alignment should be able to "fix" the toe. In my own experience, my rear toe angles have always been close to 0 degrees. In your report, they are shown as mm. My brain is too tired to convert from mm to degrees, but it does show in range so in theory you should be fine. I'd keep an eye on the tires and watch for any abnormal wear.

 

The front looks great. The rear looks like its out of spec. You will want to ask the alignment tech if he "ran out of toe adjustment" He either ran out of adjustment or when getting the toe back to spec, it threw the camber way off.

When you get this answered, you will know if you should go with a kit or not. Make sense?

 

I agree, -.9 is nothing to worry about. In the original post he stated 9 degrees. I think that was a typo.

Allow me to clarify, generic are brands of kits that have absolutely no R&D behind them and simply knock off kits that are already on the market without having any knowledge of how they are supposed to be manufactured, materials to be used, etc.

I have had the misfortune of seeing many generic kits that look exactly the same as name brand units but fail due to the reasons above. Seeing that most every kit acts as a critical component of the suspension, the savings do not outweigh the risks. A no name shift knob? Sure, why not. Same for interior dress up, body kits, stuff like that. But suspension, brakes, etc? No way. I would rather keep the vehicle stock. Just in my experience.

That's just in my 12 years of experience and my .02

 

So I talked with the store today, they said my front and rear toe is fine because they fixed it. The -2.9 and -2.7 is the camber, not the toe.

 

No I'm not kidding lol. My sheet says I have 8.7 camber

 

Aha! Who cares about camber... LOL

 

I had mine lowered on Tein H Tech springs which are very similar to Eibach and I drove it that way for about 15000 miles and never had any signs of accelerated wear at all. It drove great. I think your alignment tech was just clueless and messed up your car.