-Remove all engine covers

-Remove small harness attached to the passenger side fan

-Remove harness attached to the top o2 sensor, tricky bracket requires removal from the plastic clip before you can unplug it, that very same harness is plugged in to the lower o2 sensor, remove this as well (step needs to be repeated for the rear, blind... hehe)

-Remove 1 10mm bolt holding the coolant overflow container bracket

-Pull the rubber hose going into the radiator, clean spilled fluid

-Remove 2 10mm Bolts on the passener side fan there is a 3rd on the bottom, pull the fan up through the engine bay

-Remove 2 bolts on the FR Primary Heatshield (10mm)

-Remove 4 bolts going into the head, 12mm

-Remove Sway Bar (requires 3 12mm at the stut tops on each side, unclip the fuse box, and undo 2 10mm bolts, may differ by year)

-Remove hose held on with a bracket bellow strutbar, move the hose out of the way

-Remove the bracket holding that hose

-Remove black bracket right bellow the bracket holding that hose (you now have a visual on the 4 rear cat bolts)

-Remove the 2 top heatshield bolts

-Lift required, Raise the car chin height

-Uninstall Jpipe, put it together with the supplied gaskets and bolts for later

-Remove the plastic shrowd just bellow the plastic splitter, it is held on by 6-8 honda clips, and 2 10mm bolts on each end, also another bolt on each side of the fender well, drop that down, and put it aside for later

-Remove Driver Side Weather cover, it is held on by couple honda clips, and by a 10mm bolt, requires extension to reach the 10mm bolt, this cover runs alongside the jpipe

-Remove the front 2 heatshield bolts remaining, they will fall through

-Remove the same 2 bolts for the rear, tilt back the heatshield pointing towards the front jiggle the cat loose

-Lower the car

-Pull out the front primary cat and lay it on the ground, grab a 7/8 and put ur foot over the cat and remove the top sensor, antiseize inside of the precat delete and screw it in, tighten, but dont overtighten, repeat step for lower sensor, apply antiseize into the defouler and tighten

-Replace front precat gasket and align the cats to the bolts, hand tighten them with the 4 grey nuts

-Plug in the top sensor, and reach down for the lower sensor, plug it in aswell

-go through the passenger side and jiggle jiggle the cat out, (gets tricky) it'll come out after a few jiggles and wiggles

- Pull the heatshields from the top you wont be able to drop them through as the halfshaft heat shield is blocking it

-Repeat o2 sensor removal and reinstall remember to use antiseize provided, also dont forget to replace the 4 bolt gasket for the rear cat

-Before you drop in the rear precat delete plug in the harness for the lower sensor aswell

-Hand tighten the 4 grey 12mm nuts

-Raise the car

-Reinstall jpipe with the provided gaskets and 6 bolts nuts and washers

-Tighten the jpipe all the way

-Lower the car

-Tighten the 4 bolts for the front and the 4 bolts for the rear, carefull, air rachets can brake the studs right off the head

-Reinstall all removed components, retrace steps...

any questions e-mail me @ caceres.alfredo@gmail.com, also hit me up via pm

 

hey D-bag!!!!! PICTURES WITH A THREAD LIKE THIS...


SOOOOOOO LAZY.

i love you Al

 

are you serious, you need pics for this? rofl.... omfg... ok I will snap some pics later on, I thought I was damn specific

 

well actually i missed out on the GB so i have to wait for mine;

but i just like to read threads with pictures....i read the entire thing thinking it'd be a typical Al thread, pics on the next post...and what do i SEE?! nada


for a lack of pictures tho, the instructions were very clear, clear enough for me to mentally do the install in my head.


btw what's the verdict on feel, sound, etc etc

 

Sound? The car I installed it on had no 3rd cat and a non resonated catback it was raspy as ever, but no drone in the interior

Performance? Low end torque was very nice, definitely a big jump in torque steer rofl... As far as top end, she definitely loves vtec more

Glad I talked TheWanderer316 into letting me install, I was rusty in the tl engine bay, now I know her again hehehe

 

So THATS what you were doing yesterday....

Instructions very detailed too bad I'm not doin this

 

i will definitely be doing this as soon as income permits

 

Sounds good man, I would so do this if I wasn't so damn lazy haha.

 

PICS PICS PICS PICS PLEEEEEEEEEASE! that rear one is gonna be a bitch. car is up on ramps with j pipe out, goin to get some Vietnamese food.

 

rofl... c'mon dude, once you move that hose right under the strut bar, remove the bracket, and remove the black bracket right bellow it you will see the 2 top 12mm bolts you need to feel for the bottom 2... they are semi tight... torqued to about 40lbs... you just have to feel around you will feel the 4 12mm and you will feel the 2 10mm for the heat shield... don't lose any of those 12mm or else your screwed till you can get to the dealer rofl

 

I just got the rear cat out. that was by far the most difficult car-related thing I've ever done in my life. how the F did you guys get leverage on those bolts? that was a nightmare. I couldn't stop thanking God that I actually was able to get it out. jimminy.

 

the best advice I can give for doing this is to remove the o2 sensors from the cats before trying to remove them, it gives you way more wiggle room to get them out.

 

how about S/C Pre-cat delete... and also... did ur car throw any CEL?

 

I just finished and went for a drive, no CEL, but the car definitely sounds different. not sure if I like it or not... no rasp (whew) but there was a pftf-ptft-ptft sorta noise at first, is it possible I have an exhaust leak?

oh yeah and the car is WAY faster.

 

it sounds like a leak to me!

 

damn I hope it's anywhere but at the block, those rear bolts are so f-ing impossible to get at. I'll see if I can get it up on a lift and tighten everything else down first. I tightened it all down best I could. the precat deletes flanges lined up OK with the j pipe, not perfectly, and the gaskets definitely weren't perfect...

 

did you follow the quick pointers richie included... tighten the jpipe to the 3rd cat... then to the deletes... the last thing you should be tightening is the precats themeselves... there is a small chance you did not get the rear bolts tightened enough... by the way how tall are you because I am barely 5'8" and got at them things... put some muscle into it brother

 

That's exactly how I did it, I did the precats to the block just barely tight at all, then the j pipe to the rear barely tight then the j pipe to the precats just barely tight, then fully tightened the j pipe to the back, then fully tightened to the precats (all with impact) then used the socket wrench to tighten the precats down to the block. I didn't want to strip anything or snap anything off or anything like that so I did it tight but not bust-a-testicle tight... also I had no other choice to get at those back nuts, I had to put a folded towl on top of the IM and (VERY CAREFULLY) climb onto that bitch. there was no way I would have ever gotten leverage on those bolts otherwise.

I'm really hoping that the bolt will fix this, maybe retightening the rest of it too, because for me the power increase is awesome but I really don't like the sloppiness of the noise it's making (which could very well be a leak)

 

Can't recall but I think the bolts on the precats are supposed to be 40lbs... Not sure tho..

Damn dude you were ontop of the motor? I just leaned in from the passenger side and did it blind.. Wanderer knows I dropped the ratchet like 5 times...

 

had to, I don't have access to a lift, the thing was on ramps.

 

My car makes that noise too when first started goes away after about 30 seconds I an searched high and low for any leaks and couldnt find any...RIGHT AL!! My impression of Al in my car 8 feet up in the air......."WWWAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HH"

 

Check to see if the heat shield on the intermediate is rubbing on the rear delete.

 

any s/c guys with the pre cat deletes?

 

btw I finally got on it today, it is FAST now. still think there's a leak though, or it's just a weird sound. when I was at 5000 or so RPM next to a wall on the highway (where you can hear echos really good) I could hear a whistle, think that's a leak or air rushing over the socket for the o2 sensor?

 

Did you by any chance forget a gasket anywhere?

 

nope, did the new gaskets to the manifold, new gaskets to the j pipe and reused the existing gasket to the nocatback. I'll be adding a resonator in the next couple weeks if I keep this setup, and I'll have the guy tighten everything up...

 

Mhh, well I've done procats 1 (few months back).. 2 delete kits the passed couple of days, aside from some rasp from these guys not having resonators.. the airy sound just might be rapid exhaust flow...

 

that's my take on it now after driving for a bit. I either drive it really slow or really fast though cuz between 2000 and 2800 I get both drone and stupid intake whistle. haha. I'll probably be adding a resonator next week.

 

I have to oblige and add a small detail to the DIY Guide...

*When removing the passenger side fan get a piece of cardboard and put it directly behind it to protect the passenger side radiator...



details: Yesterday I am on the phone speaking to RacingHart03... he mentions something about the radiator being sensitive and what not, I had done the install a total of 3 times successfully without any problems at that point... my over confident statement... "never had that problem"...

GUESS WHAT... , today I finally did the install on my car, and sure enough, I hit the radiator with the top o2 sensor... coolant began to leak slowly, I didn't realize it till I was almost done... and sure enough the coolant leaked to a level just bellow the tiny pinhole the sensor created... I had to take an emergency drive of like .5 miles popped the hood and the coolant was squirting like a baby peeing right from where the hole was.... DAMN YOU CRAIG YOU BIG FRIGGIN JINX.... anyway got some liquid aluminum rad sealant, worked like a charm... all is well

ps. Craig thanks for the advice I wish I had followed it prior to making a damn hole on a part listed at $300....

 

that sucks. how do you use radiator sealant? that might come in handy if anyone else dings up their radiator...

 

well these crappy parts store chains, ie. autzone, strauss, pepboys... they all have an array of leak fillers but only 1 brand actully has a fool proof method and guarantee to work... Bar's Leak Aluminum Radiator Sealent...

just in case someone pierces their 300 radiator

 

^Whatta hamster you are Al.

 

No what sucks was the time it happend I call you up and ur like I'm shit out of luck cuz you guys stock it but parts was closed

What should I use to polish my front deleter? Mothers pearl?

 

Yo....I can sell you a brand new OEM radiator that I never used that I have from when I made a custom setup. I bought a new one to use as a template so I didnt have to take mine out prior to install. $225+UPS and its yours.

 

I will take it into consideration but the bars leak stuff holding up good so far... the leak was so tiny you know

 

Nice writeup!

Wondering about the sound... does anyone have this done to their TL with everything else stock? I saw the vid in the other thread but the guy had an aftermarket catback (CT?).

And... whats this talk about a syrupy smell?

stillhere153, feel free to respond in my other thread

Thanks,
Jason

 

Syrupy smell is the fumes from running catless, sound diff with stock exhaust will probably be a deep growl

 

Anyone's catless TL running rich enough to spit flames?? That's what I miss the most from my Subarus

 

doubt it, probably just smoke... flames would be cool tho heheheh

 

makes me want to go catless......