fade2blk

Ok I will start this thread...

in advance, I apologize for my grammar and this long post...

As myself and so many.

Would like to remove and replace their factory amplifiers as I have.

I also wanted to know what will be lost by removing and replacing the factory amplifier.

this is based on my personal experience with HFL and removing factory/ replacing with after market amplifiers.

I will say this, no one works on my car except me. so I know what is going on with it and if anything does go wrong. I am the one to blame, the one to fix and no one else.

lets begin.

HFL
stands for HandsFreeLink

What I learned.

In reality this has no effect on amplifier factory or afatermarket.

HFL works in conjuction with fatory head unit and before any amplification.

HFL does produce it's sound mostly throught center speaker.

by disconnecting factory amplifier and replacing it with aftermarket one, it will have no effect on HFL as long as the center speaker is retained.

this can be done in two ways.
retain your factory amplifier just for center speaker.

replace it with mono amplifier, or amplifier that can be bridged. don't go crazy on the power.... that little bitty speaker can only take so much.........

once it has been replaced with another amplifier your HFL will work like it did before.

Mute function and it's effect on NAV.

mute function is to mute the music during navigation guidance. and only voice is heard throught the front and center speakers, again mostly center and will mute rear speakers completely.

by replacing the factory amplifier we are loosing that function.
one way to get around it, is to fade the rear speaker to the front.

reason for fading is when the guidance comes on, music will not over power the voice.

If any one have any questions, I will try to answer them as best as I can.

hope this helps a little bit with HFL and after market amps.

I hate cars

Very interesting. Did you go after the factory amp first and then change it to before the amp? What I'm getting at is how is the sound quality pre amp vs post amp? Any hiss at all?

fade2blk

originally, I have tried it with one lock on the sub to amp, had problems.

so removed that lock, removed fatory amp. ran from head unit diirectly to amps.

I have no hiss, no noise.

xxx_busa

I need all the info I can get about the factory amp, Does it really still need to be in the car, I have a 2007 TL type S, can I wire directly to the Rockford or any other device like it?

I hate cars

This is excellent info, I'm surprised more people haven't commented. I'm going to go for the pre-factory amp inputs this weekend.

godizus

can you talk a bit about what you are using? sound processor(s)? amps?
I was looking aat a JL cleansweep, butit's onl4 channel...considering an audiocontrol LC7 now, but any real world reviews on any of these products would be helpful!

fade2blk

sorry for not replying did see this...

factory amp does not need to be in the car. yes you can wire directly to any other device... here comes the good part... as long as the imput sensitivity allowsit....

fade2blk

before you do, check specs on your gear and make sure that input sensitivity will work. if it does have high input it might not work....

My amps are rated from 200mv to 2 volts. I have no issues with it. and just to be clear. there is no noise.

good luck

fade2blk

honestly, I am not using any of the above, I did a thread on products mentioned might want to do a search on that.

as some may say old school

I am using, phoenix gold MS series amplifiers.... I purchased them barns new back in early 90's and had them since. they outlived quite a few cars...

I absolutely love them....

I hate cars

Got it. My super old Infinity amp for the bass doesn't have it but it doesn't need it, I'll just keep that going through the stock amp for now.... it that's possible. My JL for the mids and highs has a high/low so it should work hopefully. I'm really looking forward to this so I can get a little more volume without the hiss even though mine has very little compared to what it used to have.

fade2blk

you have PM...

PhillyxMartin

iTrader: (2)

does anyone have a picture of the amp wiring harness diagram? I'm confused. Thanks for the help

fade2blk

Martin. the only diagram that you will find would be in the service manual.

but per this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=audio+install there is very accurate post 27 & 29 states.

@ the Stereo Amplifier in the passenger kick panel in the 20 pin Black & White connector

RF+ Black
RF- Gray
LF+ Green
LF- Blue
C+ Brown
C- Greeen w/White
RR+ Orange
RR- Red
LR+ White
LR- Yellow
SW+ Red w/Blue
SW- White w/Green

Remote Turn-on -> Red w/Yellow
Amp Mute -> Yellow w/Green


In addition ....

@ the Stereo Amplifier in the passenger kick panel with the 14 pin gray connector contains the speaker outputs if you want to utilize the factory wiring.

RF+ Blue
RF- Red
LF+ Light Green
LF- Purple
C+ Green w/White
C- Blue w/Yellow
RR+ Red w/Blue
RR- Yellow
LR+ Brown w/White
LR- Red w/Yellow
SW+ Yellow w/Black
SW- Light Green w/Red

Ground -> Black
+12V -> White


I used the above and it worked for me hopefully you can use it as well.

good luck

fade2blk

found it. https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...2&postcount=26

PhillyxMartin

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a lot fellas I tapped into the wrong color earlier today. I ll finish up the speakers when I have some more free time.

fade2blk

note: if one will use the Red w/Yellow Remote Turn-on. make sure that you use it thriugh a 12 volt 30 amp relay.

fade2blk

ok here is the way I bypassed factory amp.


hope this helps some

Gary Mac

so if my amp is 200mv - 8 v, Im good... right?

fade2blk

you should not have any problems at all.

godizus

Good info...thx!
I found that thread a while ago, it was a good read...glad to see I might not need a sound processor at all though