DIY: Seafoam 2nd GEN TL (sorta) work in progress
#1
DIY: Seafoam 2nd GEN TL (sorta) work in progress
Buy 3 cans of Seafoam.
VAC LINE:
*IMPORTANT -- Warm up car first* Engine needs to be warm to help dissolve stuff so a 5 or 10 minute drive to warm everything should be done first.
See Page 5 for more instructions
Turn off car and reconnect the hose. Sometimes it is good to cut off a little off the end of the vac line that you dipped in the can, because it can swell up and have a vacuum leak.
Let car sit for at least 5 mins, and no more than 15. TRY and start it up. I say this because it will hesitate at first but just hit the gas a few times and it’ll start. Rev for a little while... http://youtube.com/watch?v=sCQpwEcynkk
...then go for a spirited drive until the smoke stops. You want to do a bunch of low speed start full throttle runs thru vtec to really heat the engine and blow off the loosened gook . Put it in third gear for a few exits on the freeway, slowing down and speeding back up (if traffic permits)... http://youtube.com/watch?v=a0RmnT05QmM
GAS TANK:
Use a full can in a 1/4 tank of gas to super clean the injectors. It’s great to do it while you are doing the vac line.
CRANKCASE:
Use a can in the crankcase (pour into oil fill). Get an oil change after a MINIMUM of 30 miles and MAXIMUM of 100 miles.
Thanks to 02AcTLS for talking to Seafoam about the crankcase
Thanks to 01tl4tl for all the info in the original thread
VAC LINE:
*IMPORTANT -- Warm up car first* Engine needs to be warm to help dissolve stuff so a 5 or 10 minute drive to warm everything should be done first.
See Page 5 for more instructions
Turn off car and reconnect the hose. Sometimes it is good to cut off a little off the end of the vac line that you dipped in the can, because it can swell up and have a vacuum leak.
Let car sit for at least 5 mins, and no more than 15. TRY and start it up. I say this because it will hesitate at first but just hit the gas a few times and it’ll start. Rev for a little while... http://youtube.com/watch?v=sCQpwEcynkk
...then go for a spirited drive until the smoke stops. You want to do a bunch of low speed start full throttle runs thru vtec to really heat the engine and blow off the loosened gook . Put it in third gear for a few exits on the freeway, slowing down and speeding back up (if traffic permits)... http://youtube.com/watch?v=a0RmnT05QmM
GAS TANK:
Use a full can in a 1/4 tank of gas to super clean the injectors. It’s great to do it while you are doing the vac line.
CRANKCASE:
Use a can in the crankcase (pour into oil fill). Get an oil change after a MINIMUM of 30 miles and MAXIMUM of 100 miles.
Originally Posted by Seafoam Technical Services Department
Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase oil
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines
Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations.
Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service old oil residue cleaner and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive.
1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise,
pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint to 4 gallons of oil, please) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, then do your oil change service (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service).
2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF)
Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF - oil change service, or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!
Change your oil when it gets dirty!
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines
Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations.
Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service old oil residue cleaner and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive.
1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise,
pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint to 4 gallons of oil, please) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, then do your oil change service (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service).
2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF)
Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF - oil change service, or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!
Change your oil when it gets dirty!
Thanks to 01tl4tl for all the info in the original thread
#2
While seafoam says 100 miles max before oil change- they are talking old shi-box chevy v8 motors. I know because I drive one thats kept alive by seafoam poured in the Edelbrock 600 carb!
The TL is a finely tuned machine with very small oil passages- oil pressure also runs the vtec, So I personally would not drive more than 15 minutes with a full can of seafoam in oil. I keep the oil clean and changed enough that I dont consider it an issue. Have always just idled the car but next time will give it the drive method for oil change and report back.
Based on Acuras idea of how to warm trans fluid and engine- I drive 15 minutes on the freeway to warm the engine and exhaust- the hotter the pistons and valves the more effective the seafoam is at loosening stuff. The more heat you generate on the blow out drive- the more stuff gets burned off.
15 minutes is a good solid time to wait and then drive- let the stuff soak a bit, then hot foot it up the road.
The fitting shown with vac lines hooked up is actually bolted to the fenderwell, i will get a few more pics and add to the thread
Great job consolidating the info! I have my neighbors hooked on seafoam now~ if only I had stock in the company doh!
The TL is a finely tuned machine with very small oil passages- oil pressure also runs the vtec, So I personally would not drive more than 15 minutes with a full can of seafoam in oil. I keep the oil clean and changed enough that I dont consider it an issue. Have always just idled the car but next time will give it the drive method for oil change and report back.
Based on Acuras idea of how to warm trans fluid and engine- I drive 15 minutes on the freeway to warm the engine and exhaust- the hotter the pistons and valves the more effective the seafoam is at loosening stuff. The more heat you generate on the blow out drive- the more stuff gets burned off.
15 minutes is a good solid time to wait and then drive- let the stuff soak a bit, then hot foot it up the road.
The fitting shown with vac lines hooked up is actually bolted to the fenderwell, i will get a few more pics and add to the thread
Great job consolidating the info! I have my neighbors hooked on seafoam now~ if only I had stock in the company doh!
#7
plugs: if you have more than 60k miles on them, then they may tend to load up with carbon if the hot run afterwards is not performed
If newer plugs, dont even sweat it~ just seafoam= drive= and enjoy
I pulled my plugs at 75k after 2 seafoam treatments- they had normal wear and no funny stuff happening
Replaced with NGK Iridiums and enjoying my fine ride
If newer plugs, dont even sweat it~ just seafoam= drive= and enjoy
I pulled my plugs at 75k after 2 seafoam treatments- they had normal wear and no funny stuff happening
Replaced with NGK Iridiums and enjoying my fine ride
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#8
Originally Posted by TwinTurbo335
lol after reading that youtube comment makes me not want to do this anymore.. haha shit.
#11
well did it in the vac line. I had to much gas and I just did my oil change so I'm going to wait for those. Anyways, it smoked like a bitch! I live in Scranton in the city and some kids were holding their noses..haha. Anyways, my check engine light did come on. But after I drove it for a bit I brought it to autozone and got it cleared. Hasn't come on since.
#12
After the engine stabilizes- start driving slowly as it continues to run better- then hit the road for the burn off drive- getting it super hot inside the engine and exhaust with the repeated WOT run will make the treatment most effective.
Normally if you got a CEL there was some gook on the O2 sensor- will clear itself in a few days of driving as seafoam continues to work.
Share the smoke with others rather than a huge cloud at your house!
I usually drive up the freeway a little, stop and do seafoam to engine. Grab a burger- get in the car and go for the drive on the freeway or frontage roads
Add a can to the tank as soon as its down to 1/4 or so.
First timers repeat treatment in 2000 miles for max effect, then every 5000-7500 will keep your baby running smooth.
Normally if you got a CEL there was some gook on the O2 sensor- will clear itself in a few days of driving as seafoam continues to work.
Share the smoke with others rather than a huge cloud at your house!
I usually drive up the freeway a little, stop and do seafoam to engine. Grab a burger- get in the car and go for the drive on the freeway or frontage roads
Add a can to the tank as soon as its down to 1/4 or so.
First timers repeat treatment in 2000 miles for max effect, then every 5000-7500 will keep your baby running smooth.
#13
Just did my '02 TL-S at 158,8xx. I used a 2 whole cans, one in the gas, one sucked into the engine. I got a little smoke while sucking it in, then a bit more after letting it soak for about 7 minutes, then got a nice blast that lingered the first time I got on it, then barely any more smoke. I think I was hoping for more.. My CEL light was on for just a couple seconds during the initial acceleration and it stumbled a little at the same time. Now it's time to change the plugs for the first time!
#14
Let me repeat: The hot run afterwards should be several 20 mph to 60 mph full throttle runs thru VTEC and then brake- repeat over and over
That raises the internal temps and really burns off the stuff that is now liquified.
Those new plugs will make a huge differance now that the pistons and valves are clean!
Just driving at 4000 rpm does heat stuff but does not generate the waves of pressure that also help the process.
Repeat seafoam in 2000 miles for first timers
That raises the internal temps and really burns off the stuff that is now liquified.
Those new plugs will make a huge differance now that the pistons and valves are clean!
Just driving at 4000 rpm does heat stuff but does not generate the waves of pressure that also help the process.
Repeat seafoam in 2000 miles for first timers
#15
Just seafoamed my 03 TL-S this afternoon. I've got about 73K miles. Used 1 can for the vac line and another for the fuel. Very simple to do. The only thing that scared me was the much longer startup after letting the seafoam soak initially for 10 min. And yes, it smoked like a banshee. After letting the smoke pour out for a few minutes, I went for a "spirited" run as described above. It was pretty funny leaving a huge trail of white smoke. It lingers for a while too. I do notice a smoother/quicker startup as well as around the town driving.
#16
my first few runs were between 0 - 20 to 50/60 then got in a chance to do a 20 to 90+ on the parkway. The idle is much smoother at idle and throttle response seems better. Another thing I was surpised at was that my plugs looked very good overall for having 158,xxx miles on them. Not sure if I'll get a chance to ever change them again, maybe only if the tranny holds up that long.
#19
for the oil crank case...
do i need to :
1. warm up the car by driving 10-15 mins...and then add the whole can?
2.can i add the seafoam to the oil, then drive to complete the 30min/30 miles or i can drive 10 miles, come home and then the next day drive to complete the 30 miles ...then get the oil changed??
should i also do some full throttle runs ???
also any difference in using sea foam on regular shell oil?
do i need to :
1. warm up the car by driving 10-15 mins...and then add the whole can?
2.can i add the seafoam to the oil, then drive to complete the 30min/30 miles or i can drive 10 miles, come home and then the next day drive to complete the 30 miles ...then get the oil changed??
should i also do some full throttle runs ???
also any difference in using sea foam on regular shell oil?
#20
bear in mind you are reading seafoam instructions for engines using conventional oils. These same details are applied to outboard motors and lawn mowers too.
The Acura TL uses synthetic oil which does not break down as badly as conventional motor oil of the same weight.
The Acura TL uses synthetic oil which does not break down as badly as conventional motor oil of the same weight.
#21
Did it during the weekend.
Following KSuchdeve's instructions with one trick for the sucking part.
I used a straw in the seafoam can, then put the vac line close to the straw. By doing this, you can easily control the flow of the seafoam.
The car is running like new again.
Thanks to the good stuff on this forum.
Following KSuchdeve's instructions with one trick for the sucking part.
I used a straw in the seafoam can, then put the vac line close to the straw. By doing this, you can easily control the flow of the seafoam.
The car is running like new again.
Thanks to the good stuff on this forum.
#22
Neat trick
You can also place the can on the ATF fill plug and tilt slightly when needed too
Dip and remove the vac line with right hand while left hand juggles the throttle
Seafoams website has direction for every type of use. Not going to use the lawnmower or boat for a while?- SEAFOAM IN THE GAS TANK~
You can also place the can on the ATF fill plug and tilt slightly when needed too
Dip and remove the vac line with right hand while left hand juggles the throttle
Seafoams website has direction for every type of use. Not going to use the lawnmower or boat for a while?- SEAFOAM IN THE GAS TANK~
#24
Cleaned piston tops = better combustion
Clean valves and seals mean better compression
Clean injectors make better- more effective spray pattern
New NGK Iridium IX spark plugs can now ignite the gas in its chamber as designed
Carbon buildup is everywhere- read the EGR cleaning thread and look whats inside the intake manifold. Requires carb cleaner or solvent tank to remove deposits.
It comes with a money back guarantee and is used by the majority of ziners
What more could you want?
Clean valves and seals mean better compression
Clean injectors make better- more effective spray pattern
New NGK Iridium IX spark plugs can now ignite the gas in its chamber as designed
Carbon buildup is everywhere- read the EGR cleaning thread and look whats inside the intake manifold. Requires carb cleaner or solvent tank to remove deposits.
It comes with a money back guarantee and is used by the majority of ziners
What more could you want?
#25
Originally Posted by acitydweller
The Acura TL uses synthetic oil which does not break down as badly as conventional motor oil of the same weight.
#33
Denso Iridium are the only ones i use and last time i changed them the fuckers cost me about $12.99 each
now where can i get seafoam from? my car has about 85k miles now
now where can i get seafoam from? my car has about 85k miles now
#34
Seafoam is on the shelf at parts stores with the other brands of fuel cleaner
6.99 at zone -sometimes on sale 5.99 Look for the white 8 oz can
some places even have gallons!!!
The seafoam regualr dose is 1 oz per gallon of fuel and to superclean the first time, 2oz per gallon of fuel. So use 2 cans in 1/2 tank or 1 can in 1/4
The Denso plugs cost more and dont last as long
The correct NGK spark plugs will pay you back in mileage and performace
NGK Iridium IX is favored but NGK Platinum is fine- that was the stock ones, technology has changed whats best for the car.
If you have over 60k miles on your car, seafoam and new plugs will make it run like new
6.99 at zone -sometimes on sale 5.99 Look for the white 8 oz can
some places even have gallons!!!
The seafoam regualr dose is 1 oz per gallon of fuel and to superclean the first time, 2oz per gallon of fuel. So use 2 cans in 1/2 tank or 1 can in 1/4
The Denso plugs cost more and dont last as long
The correct NGK spark plugs will pay you back in mileage and performace
NGK Iridium IX is favored but NGK Platinum is fine- that was the stock ones, technology has changed whats best for the car.
If you have over 60k miles on your car, seafoam and new plugs will make it run like new
#40
I use 1 can in the gas tank when it low on gas to get super cleaning strength
And 1 can in the intake vacuum line- that will result in smoke out the tailpipes just as you run out of seafoam- then shut off engine for 10-15 minutes- restart-let idle stabilize and go do the hard drive blowout to maximize effect
So i guess your answer would be -together
And 1 can in the intake vacuum line- that will result in smoke out the tailpipes just as you run out of seafoam- then shut off engine for 10-15 minutes- restart-let idle stabilize and go do the hard drive blowout to maximize effect
So i guess your answer would be -together