2011 mdx with 108k miles, oil leaking on floor

Dealer says:
1) rear main seal leaking (1829 to fix)
2) oil pump seal leaking ((1467 to fix)

also said right inner tie rod end has play (442) and front sway bar links have play but this can wait (375)

questions:
1) if i get rear main seal replaced, anything else in that area to change out, front end seal?
2) should i change the oil pump since the mechanic will already be in there, or just the seal
3) should I do the right outer tie rod end while doing the inner? Any other part in this area to switch out since already in there? Also, what about left side, ok to ignore since dealer didnt call it out?

thanks!

 

first of all;
you can go to an independent mechanic which will drastically reduce the price of the repairs.

on to the repairs...the rear main seal...there is nothing back there that needs additional addressing.
with my car, it is a 6MT...and I chose to replace the clutch and rear main seal at the same time...because the transmission has to come apart from the engine.
but on your automatic tranny, you do not have a clutch.

oil pump seal...the timing belt needs to come off to get to the oil pump seal. so, if you haven't already, change the timing belt and tensioner at the same time you do the oil pump seal. the dealer should have mentioned the 105k service, which is the timing belt service....

 

yes Im taking it to same indie shop who put my TB on. Would you change out the oil pump or just the seal?

 

Rear main seal leaking? First, try to re-seal the oil pump, everything should be washed and inspected as it should, I think the mechanic is a fool and the rear oil seal does not need to be changed. I have never seen these seals leaking on these engines at such an age and with such a mileage. If, when the engine starts, the oil pressure lamp goes off at the same second, then the pump is okay. In general, you need to properly disassemble the oil pump and make a gap with a Thickness Gage, but such fools work at the dealer who it is better not to trust the disassembly of the pump. These pumps are very simple and last for the entire life of the engine. If I were you, I would stay away from such scammers, all of the work listed above is done in 15 hours, and it is not worth the price of a complete engine rebuilding.

 

If you are going to invest in fixing the issue, it may be worth replacing the oil pump and oil pan gasket as well for piece of mind. My wife's 2011 drips at the RMS, but not to the point to justify the expense.

My 2004 TL leaks more drastically at the oil pump. I plan to replace the next time TB interval. I haven't done it because I bought the car for cheap 😅

 

This vehicle does not have an oil pan gasket.

 

so change out the oil pump or just reseal it ? then keep an eye on it to see if it leaks oil?

 

In red I marked what needs to be changed for this work, in blue what needs to be ordered just in case. And what about the timing belt, did you change it?

 

I did the aisin kit for the Tb about 1.5 years ago. Do you have a link for this graph where I can order these parts?

So it sounds like we address the oil pump sealing first, keep an eye out for oil drops afterwards and not touch the RMS at this time?

 

That's right, do the oil pump gasket first, wash the engine well and watch. The job on the oil pump and the job on the RMS is jobs in completely different places, so you won't waste extra money on labor.
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/.../oil_pump.html

 

so just to confirm, # 3, 6, 30, 23, 12, and 16?

 

3, 6, 12, 23. How about the PCV valve, have you ever changed it?

 

No i havent changed PCV. Is that in same area as the oil pump?

 

If this PCV is stuck, then the oil can be squeezed out through various oil seals, the taught J engines practically does not have positive gases, but the PCV is plastic and it is advisable to change it every 3-5 years. https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-rye-a01.html It changes in 10 minutes.

 

should I get the new part number for #23? (91212-5MR-A01)

• 23
  91212-R70-A01
  Oil Seal (41X56X7) (ARAI)
  • Replaced By:
    91212-5MR-A01
  
  $9.83$7.05
  
  Add To Cart
• 23
  91212-R70-A02
  OIL SEAL (41X56X7) (FRG-NOK)
  • Replaced By:
    91212-5MR-A01
  
  $9.83$7.05
  
  Add To Cart

 

do you guys have any recommendation for the tie rod end and the front sway bars? would any after market brand be ok from like autozone or rockauto?

 

The NOK oil seal is installed from the factory. NOK and ARAI are high-quality Japanese seals, so the choice depends on you. The sway bar links need to be changed when they start knocking, if your front sway bar links do not knock, then you do not need to touch them. I have over 180k miles on two Acuras and the original front sway bar links are in good condition. Here is your inner tie rod, if it has a play, then it needs to be changed. https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-stx-a01.html

 

yes there is a thud noise that comes from like the front bottom of the car when driving. I thought it was just the shield below that was loose. would you change outer tire rod on the right side since the inner needs to be changed?

 

I'm cheap, I change parts for myself, so I would only change the only inner one, but taking into account the fact that it will take the same amount of labor to replace both, so change inner and outer at once, they are not expensive. https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-stx-a02.html

 

Can the oil filter assembly be removed when performing a timing belt change in order to replace gasket #12 preemptively. Or can I end up disturbing the oil pump, etc.?
Picked up a 2011 with 123k miles on it, waiting on TB kit (ASIN) and order a Fel-Pro kit that contains #12 and several other gaskets to have on hand while I was at it.

 

Gasket #12 is simply changed without affecting the timing unit.

 

Thx altair47