BigSaveDave

Hello, I have a 02’ TL that I’m still driving and am looking at upgrading to this 2012 MDX. I certainly feel lucky that my replacement transmission went for an additional 200k miles after replacement, but I’m not optimistic lightning will strike twice. According to Consumer Reports, the rating for this year of MDX is an outlier in this Gen for reliability. The 2010, 2011, and 2013 all have pretty awful reliability numbers. The 2012 aren’t just not bad, they are rather good per the CR.

Are there certain repairs to be cognizant of when buying this? What are the common failure points on this year? The dealer allegedly replaced the Water Pump and did the timing belt.

altair47

carcomplaints-com says that 2013 is more reliable than 2012, and logically, the last year of one generation should be more reliable than the previous one.

vikingsjas

I have a 2011 and 2012 - both have some kind of oil leak burn with the coil ring needed to be replaced - unfortunately i bought both used and passed the time that Honda/Acura would have fixed the issue and yes they are aware of the issue...I just change the oil more often... I have had a few issues with regular maintenance but bought both cars with 65,000 and now both have 120,000 and 130,000 and still going strong... I will always look into another MDX if these two end up costing more to repair than they are worth.... great cars...SUVs ... my take... hope it helps...

mrgold35

There were zero changes with the 10-13 MDXs in the base, tech or Adv models. The 2012-2013 had some interior color options but all four model years were identical. The biggest issue with the 10-13 MDXs is the oil consumption issue as stated above. The oil rings on the cylinders would get gummed up and stuck. Oil would then get burned in the combustion chamber. It could be as bad as 1 qt per 1000 miles for the 9500 mile oil change interval. The MDX low oil light doesn't really come on until your are about 2.5 qts down on the 4.5 qt capacity. No quick fix other than replacing the rings on each cylinder.

That generation of MDX was the last year of P/S pump/rack, the Adv models had magnetic struts/shocks that cost around $500-$700 per corner to fix, key fob range, A/C compressor is working, double-check HID/ballast/DRL, door/hatch actuators work and not just making the sound, or any water leaks under the passenger rug or rear hatch area because of clogged sunroof drains.

I would compared the 2012 MDX to a 2014 MDX if you can. The +14 MDXs are very reliable with very minor issues compared to the 2nd Gen MDX. The +14 MDX also gets really good MPGs and can run on 87 octane compared to the 2nd Gen MDX.

altair47

There is a quick solution, it's DMSO. Consumption of 0.5 quart per 1000 miles turned into 0.05 quart. I did this procedure more than 5 years ago, everything works fine.

mrgold35

No clue what DMSO is? I've already sold my 11 MDX with +155,000 that was around 1.5 qts burned per +/- 9500 mile oil change interval. My MDX didn't qualify for the extended warranty fix at that rate.

altair47

DMSO is a clear odorless liquid, inexpensively produced as a by-product of the paper industry. It is widely available in the USA as a solvent but its medical use is currently restricted by the FDA to the palliative treatment of interstitial cystitis and to certain experimental applications.
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TaraJackson

Thanks for the link. I hope google translates it well.

TaraJackson

Yay, google helped me. I am glad I found your post.

altair47

If you want, I can write you a detailed tutorial on how to use this flash

TaraJackson

No, thank you

deepa1600

Tarajackson may not want to know the details. But i am sure other members here may be very interested in this procedure.

mrgold35

Is it a "one and done" procedure or you need to do it several times or every oil change? Seems like the stuck oil ring oil consumption issue would start all over again if you don't do something different? I purchased my 11 MDX used in 2014 with 30,000 miles. I switched to full syn Mobil 1 oil ASAP and my oil consumption stayed exactly the same since purchase at 1.5 qts per +/- 9000 oil change interval until I sold my MDX with 155,000 miles. Not sure if full syn oil help, hurt, or didn't make a difference? I always use full syn oil in all my vehicles without any issues.

altair47

A list of what you need:
1) 2 x DMSO Pure 99% Liquid 16 oz, I bought on Ebay
2) 13qt. cheapest 10W30 conventional oil, I bought on Walmart
3) 17qt. cheapest 5W20 syntetic drum oil
4) 5 x cheapest oil filters.
5) Locking Clamp Pliers

1.Warm up the engine and completely drain the old oil, and change the oil filter, fill in 6.5 quarts of oil 10w30.
2.Pinch the PCV hose using locking clamp pliers, start and after two minutes of idling fill in 16oz DMSO (be sure to heat the DMSO to 70 degrees, because its freezing temperature is 65 degrees).

3.Move the car outside and idle for one hour, it is better not to do it in the garage, because the exhaust smell is bad.
4.Drain the oil and replace the oil filter, pour 6.5 quarts of 10w30 oil and 16 ounces of warm DMSO, move the car out and set 1500rpm and wait one hour.
5.Drain the oil, change the filter, fill in 6 quarts of 5W20, give 20 minutes idle, and repeat the procedure with drain and oil filling, and changing the filter, wait another 20 minutes at idle.
6.Drain the oil, change the filter, fill in the last 5 quarts of 5W20, remove the clamps from the PCV hose and drive, the remaining vapors of DMSO will remain in the engine, so the next 50 miles on the road may be weak detonations during acceleration.
7. 100 miles after all the procedures we do the usual oil and filter change, reset the odometer, check the dipstick, and after 1000, 2000, 3000 miles check the oil level

deepa1600

Thank you for the explaining the procedure. Couple of questions:
1. Isn't the official capacity for filter and oil change is 4.5 qt? If so isn't 6.5 qt + 8 oz too much oil in engine?
2. Has the oil burning changed (increased overtime) since you did the procedure?

altair47

1. No, this is not much for a flash, I measured it so that the thought starts to reach the counterweight of the crankshaft in the engine should be almost 8 quarts, so filling up to 7 quarts is safe for a flash.
2. Consumption stays at 0.05-0.1 quart per 1000 miles, I change oil at 30-40% of oil life, that's about 4500 miles and the oil level just drops by 1/3 of the oil level marks.