KP Technologies Window roll up module install 3G Garage #I-097
#243
Racer
We will be running a promo here soon, basically all we are waiting for is time to set it up and determine when/what/how much.
We are really exicted about offering our 'one touch sunroof' module (for TSX and Accord) and plan on doing something very soon.
We are really exicted about offering our 'one touch sunroof' module (for TSX and Accord) and plan on doing something very soon.
#244
Safety Car
I don't know if it's because of this module or what, but while cleaning my int. I discovered something new.
If any or all of your windows are down (including open sunroof), you can seal everything up while getting out of your car by pushing the interior lock/unlock button down (to lock) twice.
Does anyone know if our cars do this with out the KP module?
If any or all of your windows are down (including open sunroof), you can seal everything up while getting out of your car by pushing the interior lock/unlock button down (to lock) twice.
Does anyone know if our cars do this with out the KP module?
#248
hey i have a 2006 Acura TL and i received the kp module about a week ago and decided to install it on my day off after reading the entire thread here and trying all of the possible solutions to my problems.... basically the module won't roll up my windows i checked all the connections and tried all the different timings when clicking the module and ive also listened to the lock and waited for it to finish also i took apart the module and checked to see if it was messed up and its still fine everything is brand new and instead of using the 14-16 gauge clips i used the 18-22 because the other ones didn't strip the wire when i put it on can anyone help me???
#250
i hear the lock actuator and everything, but i cant hear anything from the module itself because its inside and the door is closed also i can still roll down the windows via remote and when i put the key in the keyhole it still raises and lowers the windows and im goin to go try the voltmeter now and all the wiring is correct because ive checked it 8 times so it must be something else i did wrong
#251
ok i checked it out and the kp red wire and the tl's large green wire with a white strip is the only one gettin power when the vehicle is off and the yellow wire gets power when the key is in the ignition what else should i test for
#252
Racer
You need to check the following:
12vdc at all times between the KPtech red and black wires.
12vdc ONLY when the ignition is on between the KPtech yellow and black wires
5vdc at all times between the KPtech green and black wires (will go to 0vdc when the module is activated)
12vdc when the door lock is pushed between the KPtech blue and black wires. This is a VERY short signal, and your meter may not go all the way to 12vdc. If you have autoranging disable it for this reading.
The module works like this:
Needs power at all times (red and black)
While there is 12vdc on the yellow wire the module will NOT activate.
If there is NOT 12vdc on the yellow wire and the KPtech blue wire 'sees' 2 12vdc pulses the module will activate. When it activates the green wire will go from 5vdc to 0vdc.
12vdc at all times between the KPtech red and black wires.
12vdc ONLY when the ignition is on between the KPtech yellow and black wires
5vdc at all times between the KPtech green and black wires (will go to 0vdc when the module is activated)
12vdc when the door lock is pushed between the KPtech blue and black wires. This is a VERY short signal, and your meter may not go all the way to 12vdc. If you have autoranging disable it for this reading.
The module works like this:
Needs power at all times (red and black)
While there is 12vdc on the yellow wire the module will NOT activate.
If there is NOT 12vdc on the yellow wire and the KPtech blue wire 'sees' 2 12vdc pulses the module will activate. When it activates the green wire will go from 5vdc to 0vdc.
#253
ok after 30 minutes of testing tl's wires and then testing kp wires i finally realized that the blue wire wasnt recieving any power when i click the lock button do i disassembled everything for lik the 10 time and checked the clip, turns out that the blue wire wasnt fully in the clip so i fell stupid... but anyways i fixed that and now the module works great so im pleased thanks kp for all the help
#254
Terminex
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Module is awaesome - kudos to FAST4DR for the write-up
Got my module today & thanks to the incredible writeup by FAST4DR I was able to get this installed in about 30 min.
I had NO PROBLEMS whaysoever, and do not think I will as I did NOT use the vampire taps. I am a firm believe that the best way to do this is wire to wire contact. I simply stripped some of the wire for each connection and soldered them. then wrapped them in electrical tape. this provides a MUCH better connection, and makes removal very easy if necessary.
Thanks again to FAST4DR as I would have paid my buddy at the car stereo place 50 bucks to install this if you had not shown how to do it & how easy it is to do.
You rock man!
I had NO PROBLEMS whaysoever, and do not think I will as I did NOT use the vampire taps. I am a firm believe that the best way to do this is wire to wire contact. I simply stripped some of the wire for each connection and soldered them. then wrapped them in electrical tape. this provides a MUCH better connection, and makes removal very easy if necessary.
Thanks again to FAST4DR as I would have paid my buddy at the car stereo place 50 bucks to install this if you had not shown how to do it & how easy it is to do.
You rock man!
#255
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by terminex
Got my module today & thanks to the incredible writeup by FAST4DR I was able to get this installed in about 30 min.
I had NO PROBLEMS whaysoever, and do not think I will as I did NOT use the vampire taps. I am a firm believe that the best way to do this is wire to wire contact. I simply stripped some of the wire for each connection and soldered them. then wrapped them in electrical tape. this provides a MUCH better connection, and makes removal very easy if necessary.
Thanks again to FAST4DR as I would have paid my buddy at the car stereo place 50 bucks to install this if you had not shown how to do it & how easy it is to do.
You rock man!
I had NO PROBLEMS whaysoever, and do not think I will as I did NOT use the vampire taps. I am a firm believe that the best way to do this is wire to wire contact. I simply stripped some of the wire for each connection and soldered them. then wrapped them in electrical tape. this provides a MUCH better connection, and makes removal very easy if necessary.
Thanks again to FAST4DR as I would have paid my buddy at the car stereo place 50 bucks to install this if you had not shown how to do it & how easy it is to do.
You rock man!
Will
#256
Terminex
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
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Soldering vs. taps
I understand. I also COMPLETELY understand the ease of use for taps vs. soldering. The only problem i have with soldering is that it is sometimes difficult mentally to make that first cut to strip the wires on your expensive car:-)
#257
3rd Gear
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Nr Liverpool, UK
Age: 67
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Hi guys I`m new here and was referred to your excellent forum by a newish forum in the UK dedicated to the Accord. I`ve just bought my first Honda, an `06 Accord diesel executive estate (similar I believe to your TSX) and love the car apart from a few minor complaints. The biggest being the fact that if I get out of the car forgetting to close the windows I have to get back in, turn on the ignition and close them, a right pain in the arse, sorry, ass. So the windows roll up module from KP Technologies seems to be the answer to all my prayers, but there seems to be one small problem. The TSX from what I`ve read here has a feature that closes and opens the windows using the key in the lock instead of the remote. Over here in the Uk we don`t have this feature, or at least mine doesn`t. Am I correct in thinking that the module uses this key thing to close the windows from the remote and therefore may not work on my car.
#259
3rd Gear
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Ok thanks, just thought i`d check first before getting my hopes up, I`ll do some searching over here. Changing the subject slightly do you think your "navigation OK bypass" is compatible with UK cars and if so do you post to the UK.
#261
3rd Gear
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Hi. You can find it here http://www.phpbber.com/phpbb/index.php?mforum=sp4rks . Like I said its fairly new so you won`t find the same amount of info as on here but there are some very knowledgeable people who have helped me out a lot and new members are joining all the time. If the link doesn`t work just type THAOC into Google. (The Honda Accord Owners Club)
#263
Racer
Because you bought a 'Ridgeline' version of the module during the Ridgeline group buy. We made a special module for them, and anyone who bought a module using that discount got the 'Rigeline' version. For more information on the 'Ridgeline' version read the 'Ridgeline' thread on Ridgelineownersclub.com.
Basically, the purple wire outputs a (-) signal when the module is triggered. This output is intended to drive the relay to close the back glass.
Basically, the purple wire outputs a (-) signal when the module is triggered. This output is intended to drive the relay to close the back glass.
#265
Originally Posted by kpierson
Because you bought a 'Ridgeline' version of the module during the Ridgeline group buy. We made a special module for them, and anyone who bought a module using that discount got the 'Rigeline' version. For more information on the 'Ridgeline' version read the 'Ridgeline' thread on Ridgelineownersclub.com.
Basically, the purple wire outputs a (-) signal when the module is triggered. This output is intended to drive the relay to close the back glass.
Basically, the purple wire outputs a (-) signal when the module is triggered. This output is intended to drive the relay to close the back glass.
lol, that's why its HM20 RL... i seeeeeeeee
is my paypal going to be discounted?... and thanks for the unit, it'll be going in tommorow!
#266
Racer
I thought all Paypals had been refunded, send me the particulars of your transaction and I'll research it.
Modules are availible through www.KPtechnologies.com
The HM-20 works with most newer Hondas and Acuras. The prereq is that you have to be able to raise the windows by turning the key in the drivers door key cylinder to the 'LOCk' position, release it, and then turn and hold the key in the 'LOCK' positon. If this makes your windows go up, this module will work for you!!!
Modules are availible through www.KPtechnologies.com
The HM-20 works with most newer Hondas and Acuras. The prereq is that you have to be able to raise the windows by turning the key in the drivers door key cylinder to the 'LOCk' position, release it, and then turn and hold the key in the 'LOCK' positon. If this makes your windows go up, this module will work for you!!!
#267
Kaa - Ching !!!
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Originally Posted by kpierson
I thought all Paypals had been refunded, send me the particulars of your transaction and I'll research it.
Modules are availible through www.KPtechnologies.com
The HM-20 works with most newer Hondas and Acuras. The prereq is that you have to be able to raise the windows by turning the key in the drivers door key cylinder to the 'LOCk' position, release it, and then turn and hold the key in the 'LOCK' positon. If this makes your windows go up, this module will work for you!!!
Modules are availible through www.KPtechnologies.com
The HM-20 works with most newer Hondas and Acuras. The prereq is that you have to be able to raise the windows by turning the key in the drivers door key cylinder to the 'LOCk' position, release it, and then turn and hold the key in the 'LOCK' positon. If this makes your windows go up, this module will work for you!!!
Thank You KP ...... I've sent a secure payment to KPtechnologies through PayPal
Perfect !!!
#268
ok i just installed it, and it goes down with no problem... but i've tried every time combination for it to go up... is there anything different with this Ridgeline version and why it wont go back up...
argh... imma go check connections again...
argh... imma go check connections again...
#269
Racer
No, they are the exact same modules, besides the added circuit on the RL version.
The best way to figure out what is going on is by measuring the voltage on the KPtech Green wire. It should be 5vdc normally and should go to 0vdc for ~10 seconds when you trigger the module.
When you are sending the 'LOCK' pulses you need to wait about 1 second between pushing the button.
The best way to figure out what is going on is by measuring the voltage on the KPtech Green wire. It should be 5vdc normally and should go to 0vdc for ~10 seconds when you trigger the module.
When you are sending the 'LOCK' pulses you need to wait about 1 second between pushing the button.
#271
Racer
If using 'quick connects' you need to pay special attention to some of the wires as they are smaller then others (in the car, the KPtech wires are all 20 guage). This is the most common problem, people try to use 18 gauge connects on 22 guage wire.
#275
i did all correct but when i use the remote it wont work soo i tho i did something wrong. got to push lock then wait and push lock 2 time and the windows just roll up auto. thank you for ur help
#276
Safety Car
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The module is the HM-20? I didn't read all 11 pages, is the initial hook up all good to go? Or somewhere in those 11 pages was there an upgrade? THANKYOU for an awesome write-up. Everybody loves the auto open, but always wonders why they won't go up? I tell them its for safety. So this HM-20 unit will work on an 07 TL-S?
#278
i have finally install and work. dunno why 5hour later it wont work i check everything and wire are correct. when i try to push the lock button 2 time and hold it. it roll up but just a litter bit. anyhelp why this keep doing?
#279
OMGWTF4THGENTL
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by tonyph33r
i have finally install and work. dunno why 5hour later it wont work i check everything and wire are correct. when i try to push the lock button 2 time and hold it. it roll up but just a litter bit. anyhelp why this keep doing?
Mine went in and worked the first time, and is still working great a year later.
#280
Originally Posted by Kennedy
You using those "quick connects aka scotchlocks"? They're garbage, and lead to poor connections. Strip wire, wrap copper to copper, solder, tape...
Mine went in and worked the first time, and is still working great a year later.
Mine went in and worked the first time, and is still working great a year later.