DRIVELINE - LIKE NEW! Full autopsy of replacing EVERYTHING front end at 178k
#41
I find it funny my front drivers side wheel is out 1.5 degrees as well despite an alignment. Any reason what the problem is in yours? My mechanic says its most likely the fact that I have an aftermarket upper control arm.
#42
Fearless DIY Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
No. I'm dropping it back off on Saturday to have the toe brought in - after doing some research I'm thoroughly pissed at myself for not demanding it be fixed on the spot. Toe alignment is brought in w/ adjustments to the tie rods (insofar as I can tell), and being that everything is brand freaking new, this should not have been a problem.
I'll update everyone on Sunday.
I'll update everyone on Sunday.
#43
Senior Moderator
OP! Thanks for the well detailed, well documented procedures!! You should come teach my company a few things...
#44
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
Fantastic post, man.
I'm about to take care of a bunch of things already on your list. I'll inspect the rest. It's actually great to hear how much this improved the car.
I'm about to take care of a bunch of things already on your list. I'll inspect the rest. It's actually great to hear how much this improved the car.
#49
Damn it! And I just bought some. How long have you been on it? Can you tell me more about what you don't like? Does it cause the 3rd gear problem?
#50
Race Director
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DMZ (08-17-2020)
#51
Fearless DIY Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
This is on point. There's NOTHING wrong the the GMSMFM fluid. I'm of the rare breed that went from OEM > AMSOIL > GM. The GM fluid is absolutely great, I simply prefer the AMSOIL fluid.
#54
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
When it comes to valve adjustment. i have done them to v6 Honda engines anywhere from 90k miles to 190kk miles .most of the time the Intake valves will be loose and Exhaust will have a mix of loose and tight valves.
also miss adjusted valves might cause a check engine light to come on for couple of things.
Miss fire codes on all cylinders
engine running lean
engine running rich.
before someone spends money on new injectors or various sensors i recommend to do a valve adjustment .
most of the time it fixes the problems
also miss adjusted valves might cause a check engine light to come on for couple of things.
Miss fire codes on all cylinders
engine running lean
engine running rich.
before someone spends money on new injectors or various sensors i recommend to do a valve adjustment .
most of the time it fixes the problems
+1, fixed my lean CEL.
+1, shifter feels like a hot knife through butter after switching to this stuff. been running it for like 3 years or so. still shifts fantastic, no issues whatsoever. (at 105k right now)
#55
Instructor
#56
Fearless DIY Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
UPDATE: Recommendation from AMSOIL as follows:
I'll be changing back next summer.
Originally Posted by AMSOIL Rep
Acura upgraded their recommendation. In 2006 the recommendation was P/N 08798-9016, which is AMSOIL MTF. The upgrade is 08798-9031, which the MTF has not been approved as a replacement . As yours is a 2006, you can safely use the AMSOIL MTF Manual Transmission Fluid, in it.
#57
Just wondering, what was it that made you prefer AMOSIL more? If you don't mind sharing.
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mikey85 (08-24-2015)
#59
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (5)
Not to take anything away from this amazing list of parts that Deathmetal has put together for us, but I believe there are some errors in the part numbers that were provided. I personally have decided to follow this list pretty religiously and have just about accumulated the majority of the parts. Here are some errors I found:
-In the "Knuckle" section part number 51220-SDA-A0 should be 51220-SDA-305 (I also see it listed under 51220-SDA-A02)
-In the "Knuckle" section part number 90363-SEP-A01 should be 94201-30220
-In the "PS Knuckle" section there is only one part number listed for the outer tie rod. There should two part numbers because the right and left are different. The right is 53540-SEP-A02 and the left is 53560-SEP-A02.
-In the "Knuckle" section part number 51220-SDA-A0 should be 51220-SDA-305 (I also see it listed under 51220-SDA-A02)
-In the "Knuckle" section part number 90363-SEP-A01 should be 94201-30220
-In the "PS Knuckle" section there is only one part number listed for the outer tie rod. There should two part numbers because the right and left are different. The right is 53540-SEP-A02 and the left is 53560-SEP-A02.
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nist7 (07-30-2020)
#62
Safety Car
Wow great thread/read. Stumbled here as I am replacing the right front upper control arm and was looking at part numbers to ensure its all good.
I may or may not be keeping my TL but if I were to definitely keep it for at least 10 years, what @DeathMetal did seems very reasonable and a great way to refresh the car to semi-new in driving characteristics.
People always talk about how much money it takes to repair/maintain an older car...and then go out and spend tens of thousands more to get a newer/new car when a very capable platform can be refreshed for much much less.
I may or may not be keeping my TL but if I were to definitely keep it for at least 10 years, what @DeathMetal did seems very reasonable and a great way to refresh the car to semi-new in driving characteristics.
People always talk about how much money it takes to repair/maintain an older car...and then go out and spend tens of thousands more to get a newer/new car when a very capable platform can be refreshed for much much less.
#63
great post man!
I saved the excel sheet and will start to accumulate parts for my refresh. currently sitting at 115k miles and definitely have some vibrations
I saved the excel sheet and will start to accumulate parts for my refresh. currently sitting at 115k miles and definitely have some vibrations
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Acura TL Builder (08-17-2020)
#65
yeah I plan on keeping her for at least another 10 years
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DeathMetal (08-10-2020)
#66
Head a da Family
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: New Friggin Jerzy
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Paul Sobstyl is THE MAN, orMr.Scott as I sometimes call him. He's why my ship still runs like new after 16¼ years and 331K miles. I can still do 0-60 in under 6 seconds!
Paul is now in the process of painting and installing '07/8 turn signal mirrors I picked up for under $100 each, the mirrors that should have been on the '04/5/6 TL. The models above and below for '04, the RL, and TSX had them and the first 3,000 3G TL's produced had turn signal mirrors on the window sticker! Obviously, someone at Acura screwed that up.
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Paul is now in the process of painting and installing '07/8 turn signal mirrors I picked up for under $100 each, the mirrors that should have been on the '04/5/6 TL. The models above and below for '04, the RL, and TSX had them and the first 3,000 3G TL's produced had turn signal mirrors on the window sticker! Obviously, someone at Acura screwed that up.
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Last edited by DMZ; 08-17-2020 at 08:57 AM.
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