Oil drain plug washer/gasket
#3
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
normally you can get quite a few oil changes out of them, but they do need to occasionly changed
#22 here:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
it says 14mm
#22 here:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
it says 14mm
#6
Senior Moderator
normally you can get quite a few oil changes out of them, but they do need to occasionly changed
#22 here:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
it says 14mm
#22 here:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
it says 14mm
#9
if anyone else has ever changed the oil on your car----
go ahead and spend 50 cents now for a new washer and be safe
29 foot pounds is the spec torque, a good pull with a foot long wrench and a little tap of the hammer if no torque wrench in your tool box
go ahead and spend 50 cents now for a new washer and be safe
29 foot pounds is the spec torque, a good pull with a foot long wrench and a little tap of the hammer if no torque wrench in your tool box
The following users liked this post:
anupjthomas (05-24-2015)
#10
Senior Moderator
For most i wouldnt exceed a 3/8 ratchet for leverage. 29 ftlbs comes really quick.
#16
2000 TL Black on Beige
iTrader: (1)
does the tranny bolt have this washer too?
90471-PX4-000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM)
#18
Moderator Alumnus
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Carrollton, Texas
Age: 46
Posts: 17,856
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#19
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
np, and that was a small screwdriver, not an actual screw (a small tap from a hammer may help also)
basically use the screwdriver to pry it up off of the bottom/sealing surface/shoulder of the plug, then use the wire cutter, and needle nose pliers to work it off (or clip it in half, then use the pliers to yank it off)
basically use the screwdriver to pry it up off of the bottom/sealing surface/shoulder of the plug, then use the wire cutter, and needle nose pliers to work it off (or clip it in half, then use the pliers to yank it off)
#21
You have a few options about crush washers. Acura uses aluminum, which is good, soft enuf, not easy to break, so you don't have to tight the bolt too hard for it to properly sealed. I still use the original one. To me the old, not broken washer, molded properly with your bolt and oil case, so it should seal better than the new one where you have to tight it hard enuf for proper sealing. You can go with copper. Other car manufacture uses fiberglass washer, a cheap one, and it would get crushed about 5 re-use times, and I just replaced it with a good fiberglass washer, one that I think has the best sealing, better flexibility then aluminum or copper, and it will last a lifetime. Just a slightly tighten, and it is properly sealed and keep the bolt in place; where aluminum or copper could give the bolt a chance to work its way out. Imagine if you have to use a slightly bent metal washer, you will have to tight it very very hard for it not to leak; where aluminum, copper, or fiberglass crush washer is not a problem.
#23
everything is fine until its not,,,,,then 5 qts of engine lifeblood leave a trail down the road and the dumbo light comes on with the overheat symbol
I have found cracks and indentations, ready to or already leaking---everything on drain plug washers- most overtorqued of course,,,
If its your first time its worth a dollar to replace now
real crush washers CRUSH as they torque- soft metal to seal against the soft aluminum pan- perfect tight seal
those need to be replaced in my opinion
flat washers- take your chances
I have found cracks and indentations, ready to or already leaking---everything on drain plug washers- most overtorqued of course,,,
If its your first time its worth a dollar to replace now
real crush washers CRUSH as they torque- soft metal to seal against the soft aluminum pan- perfect tight seal
those need to be replaced in my opinion
flat washers- take your chances
#24
Temporary oil drain plug
I have an '04 tl. Jiffy lube mechanic told me the oil drain plug was a different alloy than the oil pan. He said the threads on the opening were compromised. He rethreaded the opening and put in a temporary plug. My guess is that the washer was left off on a prior oil change causing the damage. Not sure what to do about a permanent fix. Any advice?
#25
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
I have an '04 tl. Jiffy lube mechanic told me the oil drain plug was a different alloy than the oil pan. He said the threads on the opening were compromised. He rethreaded the opening and put in a temporary plug. My guess is that the washer was left off on a prior oil change causing the damage. Not sure what to do about a permanent fix. Any advice?
but for a more permanent fix, needs a new pan
as far as causing the damage, it's careless jiffy lube people and over time it got screwed up
#26
When you purchase your crush washers from the dealership, are they copper or aluminum? Mine were copper. But I have read in other forums that they are suppose to be aluminum?
The following users liked this post:
optical24 (03-13-2018)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
IBankMouse
1G TSX (2004-2008)
8
06-13-2020 12:53 PM
xsilverhawkx
2G TL Problems & Fixes
5
09-28-2015 06:51 PM
STL TL-S
3G TL Problems & Fixes
9
09-23-2015 08:52 PM