drolds72

Front, middle sparkplug well was coated in oil, probably over an ounce in there. Neighboring plug wells were dry. Looks like there is a seal that is in between the top of the tube and the valve cover. After reading through the procedure in the service manual, I could not find any reference to a seal at the bottom of the tube. My question is, is the only seal on the top, or do I have to remove the valve cage from the head to access seals at the bottom of the tube? Anybody do this yet? I see the intake has to be removed but it seems pretty straight forward...

oo7spy

That's the plug that ejects on the J35. Be sure to torque that to spec.

Good luck finding your answer.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

in this picture you can see the spark plug seal in the lower left hand corner.



I had lots of trouble of removing them and installing them.
I found a pretty easy way.



insert flat head underneath seal and twist.


Be sure to remember or take note of how they seat/sit.
I destroyed 3 seals because I put them on backwards and the sharp aluminum WILL cut them up if installed incorrectly.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

FYI; I removed the heads from my car and didnt see or notice a seal/gasket at the bottom of the heads, where the spark plugs are.
Plus that was a lot of work to do.


it would be beneficial for you to tear into at least the valve cover to inspect that #5 seal.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the Spark plug spec's are:
13/lbs of torque WITH lube

or 21-23lbs without

drolds72

I had just read that thread, and that is exactly why I had decided to check it- when I did the scheduled change it was loose by a full turn...

drolds72

Awesome- that is exactly the info I was looking for. I might just change both sides once I get the intake off....

did you replace all the intake gaskets, or were you able to reuse any?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

my spark tube gasket/seals were all good.

I just decided to paint my valve cover and originally, i thought I would have to bake them...rendering the seals useless.

but as I researched i found that I didnt have to bake the valve covers.
it was too late, since I had tried to pry them out without figuring out how to.

I destroyed them by trying to uninstall them. the sharp aluminum edges are BRUTAL to soft rubber
at that point, I was all in and had to learn how to uninstall and install them properly.

and now im passing on the info to you, so you dont destroy them.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

oh shit, i just realized that wasnt the question you asked.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

<-------------friend blew my engine, so I changed the heads.

i bought all brand new gaskets from rock auto.


but if i were you, I would re-use the intake manifold gasket.
just inspect it and make sure that it is re-usable.

as Ive taken my intake manifold apart so many times, I just re-use the gaskets

drolds72

finished. pretty straight forward. I had a seal puller that I used to get old seals out of their bores. I just did the front bank. it was tricky to get that tube thru the seal without cutting it as you mentioned- not sure how the rear bank would have gone...

oo7spy

Time for a beer!

oo7spy

What question did you answer? (Sorry, I'm no good at Jeopardy.)
Link?

drolds72

the question was, if I had to replace gaskets when I removed the intake manifold and its cover- Nope! Saved me $40

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

right, i thought we were still on the spark plug tube seals.

but we had moved on to intake manifold gasket.


Great Job, sir!! I didnt have a seal puller.



if anyone wants to read my engine ordeal, you can read here

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...32-j37-915065/

drolds72

Oh man- that bruise in the center of your chest is priceless! The fact that you beat the bolt just makes it a badge of honor...

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

That tank top and manicure are priceless.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)