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I got the bracket from NVA-AV6 directly..... which bolts should i try losening or not over tightening?...I only tried not over tightening the lug nuts but its still would not fit correctly
The ones with the black studs. You might need to loosen them up all the way, unmount the caliper from the bracket,(since the caliper gets stuck on the block part of the bracket when the bolts are tighten),put the caliper back on and tighten the bolts back up. This time don't over tighten them and see if the if that helps.
i have tried that but i did re tighten it down hard i will loosen it a bit tomorrow and see if it helps Im gonna also try tighten down the rotor without the caliper and maybe i can see if its some where else its touching thank you for your help i appreciate it i hope thats it i feel so hopeless :/
i have tried that but i did re tighten it down hard i will loosen it a bit tomorrow and see if it helps Im gonna also try tighten down the rotor without the caliper and maybe i can see if its some where else its touching thank you for your help i appreciate it i hope thats it i feel so hopeless :/
There should have been 2 washers on each of the bolts that mount the bracket to the knuckle. I have found that depending on the mfg of the rotors you may have to put one washer between the knuckle and bracket. The avic caliper is narrower than the 350Z caliper so alighnment is more critical.
The bracket came with 2 washer total one on the studs and one on the bracket where it mounts to the knuckle so i assumed it was installed the same way and installed it that way ......Im gonna add a washer to the back side of the knuckle in between the knuckle and bracket but still be safe or would that cause vibrations
I just tried putting the extra washer on in between the knuckle and bracket and it lined up a lot better and i bolted down the rotor to check the it rotates freely and it did so i slid on the caliper and when i start to tighten the caliper, the rotor did not move any more it was locked down again ....I have the right 12.8 rotor so what can it be
Where is it hitting? Also the first time you tighten down the caliper you have to use a little more force to seat the caliper into the bracket, by design the small tiets on the bottom of the caliper will bite into the bracket creating a very tight seat into the bracket. Make sure the caliper is sitting flush on the bracket.
Is there a left and right bracket? I flipped them and they fit better but when i took it to the shop they didn't want even touch the car they said the pedal was super soft and that the brakes were locked. The right side had a little spin but the driver side was completely locked and on the way home the driver side brakes started grinding really bad.... The car is not pulling either its just rubbing some where
Nope the car is just sitting in the drive way now i haven't touched it for a almost 3 weeks... when i drive the car around the emergency brake light stays lit the traction control light turns on and off and the front driver side wheel sounds like the bearing is bad all ready i just replaced them so i don't think that's it ....it must not be aligned properly
The brake pedal is still soft as hell and goes straight to the ground after bleeding the brakes and going through 2 of the big bottles of brake fluid ....i notice though when i step on the brake the emergency brake does turn off when I was driving around
You guys got me all ready for these brakes! I've struggled w/my OEM brakes since I bought my CL-S in late '02. I just ordered the RL calipers & all I need now is the brackets...
I'm hoping to still be able to get them b/c .... man my OEM brakes suck!
Have a question for anyone that's done this conversion already... Regarding the banjo bolt that is on the back of the CL caliper that holds the brake line on to the back, does this bolt get re-used on the RL caliper, or does the RL caliper use a different bolt?
I spent a good part of Saturday getting these installed, along with SS brake lines on all 4 wheels, bled the brakes FL FR RR RL, and my brakes feel really mushy. Far worse than before. Enough to where I don't feel comfortable driving it. Recommendations for what to check?
When bleeding the brakes I always start with the brake setup furthest away from the master cylinder. By that logic I would bleed RR-LR-RF-LF. That's what has always been told to me, and it seems to make sense, but the addition of ABS storing a volume of fluid away from the master cylinder could change things.
When bleeding the brakes I always start with the brake setup furthest away from the master cylinder. By that logic I would bleed RR-LR-RF-LF. That's what has always been told to me, and it seems to make sense, but the addition of ABS storing a volume of fluid away from the master cylinder could change things.
That's the way I've always done it too, but the posts I've read on here say to follow the order I mentioned above.
As far as I know the NSX / Legend are 2 piston? Whereas the RL are 4 piston.
I installed them and love them, braking distance reduced. I have the HFP 19s & had to put spacers in the front which to me sucks but, it is what it is unless I get different wheels.
If you are going to get the fast brakes brackets the 350z brembo rotors no longer work. You have to use the 2006-2012 Nissan Maxima rotors which are 320mm X 28mm. The 350z brembo rotors are too thick and rub the caliper with that bracket.
Have a question for anyone that's done this conversion already... Regarding the banjo bolt that is on the back of the CL caliper that holds the brake line on to the back, does this bolt get re-used on the RL caliper, or does the RL caliper use a different bolt?
I spent a good part of Saturday getting these installed, along with SS brake lines on all 4 wheels, bled the brakes FL FR RR RL, and my brakes feel really mushy. Far worse than before. Enough to where I don't feel comfortable driving it. Recommendations for what to check?
From past experience whenerver flushin or redoing brakes with ABS, when bleeding the new setup its good to get the ABS to activate. There tends to be trapped air within the abs.
So i would suggest if you havnt fixed your "mush" yet top off fluid and drive car attempting to set off abs. Patch of sand or something slick. Get it to pump a few times
Go bleed brakes again. Top off. Drive ,ABS set off. Bleed again ,top off.
It should clear stuck air. Just make sure the system is topped off.
Brakes can be temperamental. Its a closed system. Even though the process is straight forward regarding bleeding. Trapped air does exsist. That ever so little breathe of fresh air somewhere lodged.
Could take 3Xs maybe 6Xs. As long as the system is "closed" it will come out eventually.
As far as I know the NSX / Legend are 2 piston? Whereas the RL are 4 piston.
I installed them and love them, braking distance reduced. I have the HFP 19s & had to put spacers in the front which to me sucks but, it is what it is unless I get different wheels.
So your rocking the RL calipers?
Those hpf's have a 55 offset! Thats a bigg spacer.
My wheels have a 47 offset and im worried about the RLs
So the 45offset Tl wheels fot? The 18x8 correct. 3 mm isnt much. I may be able to fit the RLs.
So your rocking the RL calipers?
Those hpf's have a 55 offset! Thats a bigg spacer.
Duuuude, you're telling me. I f%$king hate it. I have 2 5s but could use like an 8 or something. Hate it. Buuut, it stops sooo much better that I said F it.
Anybody know if nva av6 is still making these brackets? Tried searchin his username to no aval
As far as I know he is not and you can only get brackets from fastbrakes. Just make sure you get 2006-2012 maxima rotors instead of the 350z brembo rotors.
As far as I know he is not and you can only get brackets from fastbrakes. Just make sure you get 2006-2012 maxima rotors instead of the 350z brembo rotors.
Sounds good. Curious how did you find this out? Trial and error?
Are you running this setup currently?
You in a CL or a TL?
Any maxima (model doesnt matter) 2006-2012 rotor.
Did you have any issues with the lug nuts studs being short or its strictly bolt on good to go!?
Sounds good. Curious how did you find this out? Trial and error?
Are you running this setup currently?
You in a CL or a TL?
Any maxima (model doesnt matter) 2006-2012 rotor.
Did you have any issues with the lug nuts studs being short or its strictly bolt on good to go!?
This is how I found out, the brakes are going on my cl. In the instructions that came with the fastbrakes brackets it says to use 2006-2012 maxima rotors. I have new rotors being shipped to me but they won't be in till next week. When I looked up rotors for the maxima they were all the same size no matter the trim level. It is direct bolt up and I will post an update once I get the right rotors.
07-25-2013, 02:28 AM
hope you get it fix soon.
