Warzone2159

Hey guys, so over the past year I've been getting shudders coming from 2nd and 3rd gear, I had severe flaring into 3rd and into 4th and sometimes when it would try to engage 3rd from 2nd gear, it wouldn't engage and it felt like it was it neutral( in D5 still). I cleaned my a/b and tcc solenoids which were badly clogged. The middle screen in the a/b solenoid was 75% clogged and the tcc was brimmed out with gunk. Still, it shifted horribly even after ecu reset for the 1000 miles after I did it. So I bit the bullet and did a 1x3 with valvoline maxlife and half a can of seafoam transtune. I had just done this 2 days ago. I have driven 124 miles since and I no longer shudder (even on an incline,in third, at partial throttle), I no longer flare into gear( third is still slow to engage) and reverse doesn't slam into gear as hard. I will update as I drive more, 3rd would false neutral in me least once every 20-30 miles and hasn't done I since I added the fluids. I do not believe in snake oil, however it doesn't claim to fix anything, it claims to clean things and I believe my problem may just be that something is gummed up.

thoiboi

but one has to think HOW and WHAT was gumming up your solenoids: failing gears and TC is my guess. Hopefully it adds a few miles to your transmission's lifespan; something is better than nothing, that's for sure!

Warzone2159

I'm certain it was clutch material and the likes doing the clogging. The fluid was black when I first replaced it with a mix of redline d4 and type f. And despite all the issues, it worked fine in ss mode. The issues showed their colors in D5 and D4 only. I figured the difference between ss and the others is the others rely on sensors to know when to shift and ss relies on user input. So if said sensors were gummed with material, the seafoam might free it up. It never slipped out of gear either, just shudders and flare so there might still be clutch material left. I had a code for p730 aswell, it has yet to come back

jansenjosh

After having mine opened up, I found that there was a ton of clutch material EVERYWHERE! Cleaning the solenoids and screens is a start, but I would recommend changing the little filter right on top of the trans: More Information for ATP B265
See attached picture for location on trans.


Not saying its going to be super easy, but after cutting my old one open, it should be worth it. Also I would keep changing the fluid, if it was black before, you need to get as much of that out of there as possible. There are filters/screens internally too that are probably full too.

Warzone2159

I replaced that filter about 9 months ago, I will changing it after I add the rest of the trans tune during the next 1x3. As far as shifting quality goes, I did some hard city driving yesterday and now the trans feels like its more comfy locking the tcc at lower engine speeds. Also the average time it takes me to go through gears 1-4 from a stop went down significantly in d5. I could not drive in d5 due to the erratic shifting and false neutraling and d4 was also barely useable previously. I have yet to use ss mode like I usually do and so far its been shifting better than when I switched to redline the first time

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

I have been changing 3 quarts of Honda fluid with every oil change now for several years, this got me about 200K after the factory rebuild. As I got closer to having to rebuild it became clearly noticeable when it was time for an oil change due to the behavior of the transmition. I have continued this a practice since my my rebuild. The old internal filter weighed about 3lbs at tear down, so even with the regular trans oil changes it is inevitable that it will clog. This practice is an effort to slow the effects of clogging and contamination as well as keeping fresh friction modifiers in the fluid as they break down with heat. Most people are aware that excessive heat will break down trans fluid but operating with trans fluid below temp is considerably more damaging to the friction material its self, thus the reason for the factory warmer. Take care after startup to not put the trans under hard load till it reaches temp, this usually takes longer than the engine.

Warzone2159

I have about 8 miles of traffic light free road going from my house to my usual destinations so I always let it warm up before using more throttle. Once the tc stays locked i know its warm. I started shuddering in third and I believe its the max life, I did a 3x3 of redline d4 a year prior to fix the same shudder. It started flaring aswell after the maxlife was added. I will be flushing my trans four times with three quarts of castrol import because you can't beat 4.76 a quart and castrol also supplies Nissan with their OEM trans fluid. After that ill be switching to redline type f over the coarse if the next 3 oil changes. I reduced the flaring between shifting by adjusting the ab solenoid with that tool from sonnax, I think it bumps the line pressure to speed up gear changes.

Warzone2159

Update: I've had the trans tune in for 600 miles with very good results. I was sure to do some wot runs to get the trans fluid hot enough to clean well. The shifting has firmed up and it hasn't gone into the false neutral in third more than 3 times all those miles. it used to happen regularly. I just did a 3x3 with castrol import atf and the fluid that came out looked not burnt at all but cloudy and dirty. Looked alot worse than what I took out of the last drain in fill. I had to clean the solenoids also because they were re gunked up. Shifts beautify now and while 3rd is still kinda slow to engage, it doesn't flare. To top it off, i adjusted my ab solenoid with the sonnax tool it seems to have helped with my hard reverse engagement and 1-2 shift under low throttle. After another 3x2 ill be switching to redline type f to further bandaid my tranny.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

Good to hear! have you replaced the 3 & 4 pressure switches? How much did you turn the a-b solenoid?

musiclevelz5

Typically when the external solenoids get clogged up easily the internal filter has been compromised and is not doing its job of filtering. The fluid has free flow to every small hole and port in the transmission which is why the clutch material is getting into places it should not be rather than being blocked by the filter.

Your transmission should be dead right now and continuing to drive it increases your chances of disaster on the road.

Saving up for an AV6 should be the priority, not blowing money on expendable fluid.

Warzone2159

So far I've turned my solenoids 1/4 turn and flaring had been greatly reduced. The pressure switches were replaced recently aswell. The code i had was for" incorrect gear ratio" during the initial failure. I've so far went 900 miles on the Castrol and trans tune mix and has not mis-shifted once. I HAD to use Ss mode to scoot around previously so I'm still getting used to having it in d5 and 4 because it would go into neutral so frequently and it did it in Ss mode a few times. I am currently saving up for a full brand swap, a Subaru more or less. I made this thread because I don't mind grenading my trans if it means I can potentialy find a fluid based quick-fix for people on a budget like me. My time and money are on a budget. To be clear, I've never "slipped" out of an already engaged gear, and that's why i still have hope.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

OP good to hear!

01acls

Warzone, check out the link below. It should help.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...ission-943471/