zubi23

So i'm not sure if people have read my led drl issue that I was having but in a nut shell: I installed ijdmtoy led drl's. After a yr they started to flicker, eventually they went out. Bought some new LED lights. They weren't fitting. I noticed rust on the connector to the light bulbs. I emailed ijdmtoy and they said to check all connections. Thats when I noticed the connection from the harness of the LED DRLs was not connected to the postive terminal and had all this goo on it. I wiped it down, and what used to be a little circle that fit on my terminal degraded to basically nothing. THEN I decided to clean the terminal since it was all dirty. I cleaned it and then I decided to take the terminal out of its housing by using a wrench and basically unscrewing the nut so that I can lift out the metal circular piece that fits onto my terminal. I started to turn the little nut/bolt and the whole damn TERMINAL metal piece was coming off and bending. I stopped right then. The keyless entry stopped working. I went in the car. basically no power. Its NOT STARTING and now I"M SCREWED. I have NO IDEA what to do. Can someone please help a third gen in serious problem. See pictures below

link to imgur:
imgur: the simple image sharer

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

At this point I would recommend buying a new battery and doing ur best to get old stuff apart and cleaned so you can reattach them to the battery properly. Besides that I guess I would recommend keeping an eye on those battery terminals more so it doesn't happen again. Surprisingly the terminals on every TL I have owned has always stayed looking literally new.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Relax, you're not screwed.

Looks like you could use a new battery harness and/or battery.

Clean that corrosion up, it will get your car started again.

As for your DRL LED harness, go buy a "ring terminal", and use it to replace the one that degraded.

NBP_BALLER

You have a lot of corrosion on your battery terminal. The corrosion comes from a battery leaking acid out of the post location. You can use boiling hot water and a wire brush and it should help remove the corrosion. If there is still too much, you may need to get corrosion cleaner from an auto parts store. You cannot make a good connection with corrosion, so it can make your entire car lose power, example... all your issues. As far as the metal eyelet that goes to the power wire from your ijdmtoys drl harness, it just needs to be opened up and crimped on, or you can get a new one at walmart or an auto parts store and krimp it with a krimp tool. Id replace your battery as well since its leaking.

zubi23

Thanks guys for your responses but still no luck. I cleaned the shit out of the terminal with battery cleaner. The lights did start to work but were a little dim. Even the center display that says driver 1 was working. I thought it would start but it didn't. I heard some clicking everytime I tried to start it. I checked the voltage of the battery it was around 12.4. I decided to jump it and while jumping I checked the voltage again and it was reading around 14ish. Tried to start it, and this time the lights were as bright as normal. I turned the keys, and just heard clicking. Waited 5 minutes with the jumpers still connected, and tried again. This time it just clicked once and completely shut off. I thought it was the terminal connection so I cleaned it some more. I noticed some sparks while removing the cable to terminal - I don't think thats normal. But now the battery is at 12.5 and it still doesn't start. Does the clamp around the terminal need to really tight? The problem is that damn nut isn't turning, and when I tried to turn it with it off of the battery, i can see that its tearing apart.

truonghthe

Yes the clamp suppose to be tight, seem to me that you twisted the cable (ring thing) and create a crack some where. No matter what battery you put on it it won't start. If you snap the negative it's will be an easy replacement but if you crack the positive cable then pretty much more work require to replace the cable. I was in a similar situation before with my accord but lucky for me it was the negative one.

zubi23

Yeah but even with it a little loose and not tightened down all the way, the interior light are still turning on...

R the sparks that I mentioned normal, and how is changing out the positive different than the neg?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

The negative cable is a short wire that's around 5 inches, and hooks to the body.
Any monkey can change it out.

The positive cable, is much longer, and hooks up to various things.

As I suspected, looks like your positive cable is no good.

Spray some PB blaster on the nut. You should be able to loosen the nut without everything bending (or at least try), and then inspect things from there.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

if your battery terminal is bent, go to autozone and buy a new terminal. super easy to install, they have one thats held on by 2 bolts to the wire(no need to crimp). I did this on my friend's car that had a corroded terminal also.

truonghthe

I believe that the positive cable connect to the alternator and other thing, like GP said the negative cable is nothing but a ground wire that has two or three anchors points. Yes you will get full functional when the key is in accessory mode like normal but when you turn the key to start that when the car draw more current and that crack is the weak point you will get ticking sound and nothing will happened. That is my previous experience with the accord. I had to jump start the car via the cable clamp (not the battery terminal) the ran the car with ONLY alternator but becareful DO NOT rev your car past 4k rpm since the alternator isn't connect to your battery but it power goes straight to the car electronic and it could fry them (some of the modern car won't even let you run in that mode to protect the electronic). Sparks meaning that the circuit is short out.

zubi23

Can I cut wires leading to the clamp from the positive end and then just attach the wires to a new clamp?

Jesstzn

Have you cleaned and checked the negative cable too?

zubi23

Since that nut on the positive cable clamp was stuck I used some WD 40 and some vice grips to hold it and take off the nut. After that I cleaned the clamp and also removed all the wires from the IJDMtoy harness just in case. I put the clamp back, unfortunately it wasn't tightening but I tried my best and it somehow started. Drove to the dealership and they looked at it and the guy basically lifted the clamp and it tore into two pieces...so i needed a new cable...4 bills at the dealership. called a few places and just changed out the clamp only for less than 100. I threw out those crappy harness wires from IJDMtoy, but now my car is starting .

truonghthe

Ok like I said before the clamp is the issue.

NBP_BALLER

Yeah should have just put a new positive and negative cable on man. I had a 2009 Accord in the shop last week that had no power, exactly like your describing. Negative cable was bad, limiting only a few strands to actually give the car a ground. Replaced it with OEM one from Honda for $9 and wala! You can have 12v all day long but what you need is current flow. Voltage is just Voltage, Amperage flow is the pressure behind it, no pressure, no go. Think of a wire like a water hose. The water being the voltage, and the flow the amp current flow. If you shut off the end of the hose(disconnect battery, poor connection, loose terminal, bad ground) then you have no flow but you still have water(voltage) in the hose. If you open the end of the hose and the water starts to flow(amp current) then you have what you need to complete an electrical circuit. Im a Master Certified & GM World Class Tech, this is my game! lol

PrimeTiime

Same thing happened to me using the same exact DRL kit from that website. Not sure why. It actually caused the + clamp to snap a few weeks ago. Cut off the DRL and replaced the clamps.