Throttle body coolant bypass mod
#162
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Age: 40
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Originally Posted by moda_way
Looks like you did it right to me. Being the 06 TB is probably why I wasn't seeing things straight.
so does putting fluid in this morning and driving around today without any noticeable losses.
hopefully tomorrow clee09 can help me with my rsb install and can poke around in there and give me yet another confirmation.
#163
Looks like Moda already came to the rescue. More than likely the fluid loss was from the procedure. I've been running the bypass since my initial write-up with no issues to date (knock-on-wood). Good luck with the RSB!
#164
Someone stole "My Garage"
Originally Posted by JTso
Bringing this back to address the question and here is the official answer from Honda.
Has anyone experienced problems during freezing cold weather after the mod?
Has anyone experienced problems during freezing cold weather after the mod?
Acura states it's heated the TB to prevent the throttle plate from icing. This could mean two things:
1. Prevent it from icing stuck open. That would obviously be bad.
2... what I don't believe any of us have thought of: To prevent it from getting a layer of ice ON the throttle plate. This could definitely affect fuel consumption, for starters.
Air has moisture. Upon prolonged exposure to a zub-zero throttle plate (in northern climates, as junktionfet brought up in his Audi talk), air can and will condensate. Think of frosty windshields in the morning as an example. Continuous exposure of the throttle plate to this air can probably cause a caking effect of ice on the plate, restricting airflow and putting stress on the plate and/or the spring, and definitely on the electric throttle motor (ice is heavy!).
Has anyone driven say 300 miles continuously in well-below-freezing temperatures, and had this mod at the time? Notice any detrimental effects?
(The above could just be a rationalization by myself since I couldn't find the correct 90* elbow ANYWHERE, even at a huge plumbing specialty store... lol!)
#165
Cruisin'
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I would think if you live where it freezes, do the mod during the summer only. Your sucking in cold air in the winter anyway for some Hp gain due to richer air. This alone would probably counteract the TB bypass effect during the winter.
#167
Suzuka Master
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Originally Posted by patriot1991
I would think if you live where it freezes, do the mod during the summer only. Your sucking in cold air in the winter anyway for some Hp gain due to richer air. This alone would probably counteract the TB bypass effect during the winter.
#168
The coolant through the TB design is nothing new. It has been used on many if not all Honda non-DBW TBs. However, this particular design is not implemented by all manufactures like some sort of mandatory safety feature. I still think the chances of the TB plate freezes up is extremely slim, especially for a motor driven TB plate.
#169
Master Graphic Artist
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I've had no issues out in Chicago when the winter was extremely cold...
Hey moda_way! How's the new house? I ended up selling the TSX a while back, I miss it dearly.
Hey moda_way! How's the new house? I ended up selling the TSX a while back, I miss it dearly.
#171
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damn a JTso sighting
#172
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
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I know...super thread revival...but did this and have an update...
I checked my TB temp with a temp gun yesterday after my drive home from work with the coolant connected and then again this morning with it bypassed and the temp diff was:
BEFORE:
142 deg Temp on Top of TB
170 deg Temp on Bottom of TB
115 deg Temp on Top of TB
133 deg Temp on Bottom of TB
Thought everyone would like to know...took the opportunity to take off the TB and give it a really good cleaning with a wire brush and some seafoam. Did the idle/throttle relearn procedure and I'm very happy with the results.
I checked my TB temp with a temp gun yesterday after my drive home from work with the coolant connected and then again this morning with it bypassed and the temp diff was:
BEFORE:
142 deg Temp on Top of TB
170 deg Temp on Bottom of TB
115 deg Temp on Top of TB
133 deg Temp on Bottom of TB
Thought everyone would like to know...took the opportunity to take off the TB and give it a really good cleaning with a wire brush and some seafoam. Did the idle/throttle relearn procedure and I'm very happy with the results.
#175
New from TSX Club. But I designed a new TB Coolant Bypass. A little more complex than JTso's version but I designed it for those who worry about the winter time. I myself will not be doing this mod as it doesnt get cold here in the South.
Here's a link to my thread: http://www..com/forums/1st-gen-engin...ypass-alt.html
Here's a link to my thread: http://www..com/forums/1st-gen-engin...ypass-alt.html
#176
aw hell it screwed up^
This is a concept for you guys crazy enough to live where its gets below freezing.
I had trouble converting the image so I hope you can see it.
Its a little more complex than the original TB bypass but, it will allow you to turn it on or off during the winter months.
Because there is no force on the lines
when the valve is in the bypass position, no new or hot coolant will get to the throttle body. Existing coolant will stay put.
If you want absolutely no coolant to get to the TB, you can install two 3-way valves, one on each line, instead of one on the IN line.
I had this checked out by a supervisor out at ExxonMobil. He claims this is common practice in the refinery and should work.
Since Im in the South Im not going to spend any money doing this but, if someone up North would like to give it a try, let us know if it works.
This is a concept for you guys crazy enough to live where its gets below freezing.
I had trouble converting the image so I hope you can see it.
Its a little more complex than the original TB bypass but, it will allow you to turn it on or off during the winter months.
Because there is no force on the lines
when the valve is in the bypass position, no new or hot coolant will get to the throttle body. Existing coolant will stay put.
If you want absolutely no coolant to get to the TB, you can install two 3-way valves, one on each line, instead of one on the IN line.
I had this checked out by a supervisor out at ExxonMobil. He claims this is common practice in the refinery and should work.
Since Im in the South Im not going to spend any money doing this but, if someone up North would like to give it a try, let us know if it works.
#178
Burning Brakes
here are additional pictures for 04-05 TSX
These are the two hose you need to disconnect and reconnect to each other for the bypass.
Here's a zoomed in picture to give you better idea.
The two hoses connected together With the inlet on TB plugged off.
These are the two hose you need to disconnect and reconnect to each other for the bypass.
Here's a zoomed in picture to give you better idea.
The two hoses connected together With the inlet on TB plugged off.
The following users liked this post:
MaDMaXX (04-02-2015)
#180
10th Gear
I had real problems finding this connector for some reason, so FYI, anyone still wanting to do this mod in 2015, here's what i found available.
Brass 5/16th straight
Brass 3/8th elbow
Brass 5/16th elbow (need to find a supplier or pay the $10 from amazon, product code on page)
Plastic 5/16th elbow
NAPA AUTO PARTS
Brass 5/16th straight
Dixon Valve BM25 Brass Hose Fitting, Mender, 5/16" Hose ID Barbed: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Brass 3/8th elbow
Brass 5/16th elbow (need to find a supplier or pay the $10 from amazon, product code on page)
Dixon 5/16" Hose ID, Barbed Hose Splicer, Brass, 90? Elbow Splicer, Forged (177-0505): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Plastic 5/16th elbow
NAPA AUTO PARTS
#182
10th Gear
I used the straight brass connector from Amazon for a buck twenty. Right angled elbow would be nice, but the straight fits perfectly fine.
Top pipe is the one you don't really need to clamp much, you can just lift it up higher, i suggest doing that one first and insert the new connector in there before removing the lower one.
Try and clamp the lower one if you can, then just be quick getting it back on the new connector to minimise the amount if coolant lost. All done nice and easy.
Top pipe is the one you don't really need to clamp much, you can just lift it up higher, i suggest doing that one first and insert the new connector in there before removing the lower one.
Try and clamp the lower one if you can, then just be quick getting it back on the new connector to minimise the amount if coolant lost. All done nice and easy.
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