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they're similar to legend calipers. I didn't want to get new rotors, pads and have clearance issues with my rims if I went with the RL calipers. I can use my current pads and rotors and but have dual pistons and some bling.
Makes sense.
I had the RL/Pilot setup on the Accord, but those were some of the parts that I wasn't able to take off the car.
So, planning on doing the RL/Pilot setup again on the TL, but finding the rear bracket may be a bit of a challenge.
OP, I would suggest not spacing the hood, it's cool for a little while, but, I think you'll probably get tired of the look soon enough.
^ You don't need the spacer Hairy...
That torque curve is totally unnecessary in this application, You already have the idiotic torque of the J35 and then the Headers? that silly spacer is irrelevant to this point you simply wont have the traction to put that power to the ground.
^ You don't need the spacer Hairy...
That torque curve is totally unnecessary in this application, You already have the idiotic torque of the J35 and then the Headers? that silly spacer is irrelevant to this point you simply wont have the traction to put that power to the ground.
I know I don't, but I rather keep it. Keep everyone questioning as to what I have under the hood. I never had much traction to begin with being on 215/40 lol
Originally Posted by SykVSyx
You could always lower the subframe, or go with the J37 IM so you will have the clearance to be able to close the hood.
I wouldn't drop the subframe at all, would put my pan at a higher risk at breaking again and I read that the J37 isn't that much help. Plus the price is dumb high for what I would want it for.
Do you guys happen to know why my car is throwing the code p1399?
We've checked the EGR, the EGR passages on the intake mani, and coil packs. Car runs, but won't go past 4000 rpm. Car feels like it has power, but not what it should be having. and at around 2000rpm it has a kind of shhhhhh sound coming from the motor, a pinging.
If I can burn all my way into third with the Auto and a J32? you can burn all the way to 4th and chirp 5th easily
You should see what is like with a built 3.7 Unless you put 275s on it like i did you will have all sorts of problems. I would spin the tires on the hwy passing cars, go to 275s Then its just 1st and 2nd
Sounds like you are in limp mode, and EGR shouldnt be causing that. Did your mechanic swap over the crank position sensor, and TDC sensors and cam gear when he did the swap. Did you swap over your motor coils and plugs to this new motor? Double check that the timing is correct.
You should see what is like with a built 3.7 Unless you put 275s on it like i did you will have all sorts of problems. I would spin the tires on the hwy passing cars, go to 275s Then its just 1st and 2nd
And here I think my MDX 255s are wide... 275 on the TL should look hilarious.
Sounds like you are in limp mode, and EGR shouldnt be causing that. Did your mechanic swap over the crank position sensor, and TDC sensors and cam gear when he did the swap. Did you swap over your motor coils and plugs to this new motor? Double check that the timing is correct.
aren't the Crank sensor, tdc sensor, and cam gear sensor the same part #??? Is it possible to have the same p# and be different?
Coils were swapped and plugs are brand new NGK iridium.
Cam gears, I didn't ask specifically, I just wanted my car back from the dead.
Originally Posted by SykVSyx
Congrats, glad to hear everything has been worked out.
So, just so I am clear, what was the complete list of parts swapped over with the head swap?
No idea, just told my guy what I wanted and he did everything from there. I didn't tell him much either. First time he's done a swap with a J series. From what I was told, he did swap over quite a few things, also depended as to which parts were in better condition.
Last edited by HairyMonkey019; 03-21-2016 at 04:02 PM.
@Gabru, Would love to get a TL meet organized for the summer......once my project is done.... Probably something we could make happen, as we have done in the past with our CanAm Meets. Should be enough TL and CL owners between here and there that would be up for a cross border meet. It's been about 6 years since the last big one.
OP, the engine looks like it is sitting pretty high, or is it just me. When the hood is on, it closes properly, or did you end up spacing the hood?
Sounds great, though, and looks very 'at home' in that engine bay.
@Gabru, Would love to get a TL meet organized for the summer......once my project is done.... Probably something we could make happen, as we have done in the past with our CanAm Meets. Should be enough TL and CL owners between here and there that would be up for a cross border meet. It's been about 6 years since the last big one.
OP, the engine looks like it is sitting pretty high, or is it just me. When the hood is on, it closes properly, or did you end up spacing the hood?
Sounds great, though, and looks very 'at home' in that engine bay.
just gonna cut and space it. The bolts I bought for it are way too short, but I ordered some stainless steel ones online. Currently rolling hoodless until I get them in. It does sit high due to the MDX spacer.
0 cutting.
80mm stainless steel bolts with a lot of nuts and washers in between. Looks like garbage. Trying to figure out what I want more of, fitted hood or power. ..
Clears intake manifold and what not.
Hood doesn't even touch the rubber pieces up front, so nothing to really stabilize it.
Take out the intake manifold spacer and cut the hood frame.
I have never seen a hood have so much clearance issue with a J series swap.
The Civics are bad enough with the cut hoods, but on a full size sedan, that is NOT a good look.
I have been researching about how to get a little more out of the J35, and it looks like I will go with the 07 TL Type S cams and exhaust valve springs.
Not sure if it is essential that I port the heads/runners as well, but, I think it is probably better to do so with that type of upgrade. Not looking forward to hearing how much a shop is going to charge for that type of work.
I now know the max drop for the hood if someone like me were to keep the spacer.
Anyway, here is a video of an induction test.
I also finally chopped up my hood and lowered the hood 20mm, which made a big difference visually.
The video is still ~80mm tall compared to the 60mm now
The manifold spacer doesn't "need" to go.
Stock ECU. You can't tune an auto.
"needs' may be a bit of an exaggeration, it is only my opinion, but a spaced hood is a bit of a ghetto look....just doesn't seem to look quite right on a TL.
Your car, your preference.....I can let it go.
You can tune an auto, but it does present challenges. Probably not really necessary to tune it, but it can be done if the shop knows what they are doing.
Not sure there is a huge power loss with an auto not being tuned, any increase in power over stock is always a good thing.
Hoping my plans will net me 300whp, but, like yours, it will be auto, so, we'll see. Not sure that I want to shell out the $$$ for the Greddy Emanage Ultimate and the car is an auto.
That's wild that it's lifted that much, my CLS had a tilt that was probably half that height..
TQ > *
Dude, my hood is cut and is as close as it can get without doing major damage lol.
Secret is to NOT SLAM THE HOOD. I also think the solid mounts help.
Here I press on the hood and you hear it hitting the manifold.
damn man, just read through the thread and great work! Although I've seen her in person recently it was cool to read through this and see the whole process. She's looking really nice and I love the wheels a lot and the whole look is just very very clean. Can't wait to see her again in person soon! Woot!
Have you tried driving it without the spacer? It would take you all of 20 min to remove. Try removing it and see if you notice any difference. It may change your mind about removing it.
Have you tried driving it without the spacer? It would take you all of 20 min to remove. Try removing it and see if you notice any difference. It may change your mind about removing it.
03-08-2016, 07:17 AM
Unless you put 275s on it like i did you will have all sorts of problems. I would spin the tires on the hwy passing cars, go to 275s Then its just 1st and 2nd 
Probably something we could make happen, as we have done in the past with our CanAm Meets. Should be enough TL and CL owners between here and there that would be up for a cross border meet. It's been about 6 years since the last big one.
