J35A3 @Cooloh2low Fittedtho Pic Heavy w/Videos
#41
I had the RL/Pilot setup on the Accord, but those were some of the parts that I wasn't able to take off the car.
So, planning on doing the RL/Pilot setup again on the TL, but finding the rear bracket may be a bit of a challenge.
OP, I would suggest not spacing the hood, it's cool for a little while, but, I think you'll probably get tired of the look soon enough.
#42
Makes sense.
I had the RL/Pilot setup on the Accord, but those were some of the parts that I wasn't able to take off the car.
So, planning on doing the RL/Pilot setup again on the TL, but finding the rear bracket may be a bit of a challenge.
OP, I would suggest not spacing the hood, it's cool for a little while, but, I think you'll probably get tired of the look soon enough.
I had the RL/Pilot setup on the Accord, but those were some of the parts that I wasn't able to take off the car.
So, planning on doing the RL/Pilot setup again on the TL, but finding the rear bracket may be a bit of a challenge.
OP, I would suggest not spacing the hood, it's cool for a little while, but, I think you'll probably get tired of the look soon enough.
#43
Moderator
^ You don't need the spacer Hairy...
That torque curve is totally unnecessary in this application, You already have the idiotic torque of the J35 and then the Headers? that silly spacer is irrelevant to this point you simply wont have the traction to put that power to the ground.
That torque curve is totally unnecessary in this application, You already have the idiotic torque of the J35 and then the Headers? that silly spacer is irrelevant to this point you simply wont have the traction to put that power to the ground.
#45
^ You don't need the spacer Hairy...
That torque curve is totally unnecessary in this application, You already have the idiotic torque of the J35 and then the Headers? that silly spacer is irrelevant to this point you simply wont have the traction to put that power to the ground.
That torque curve is totally unnecessary in this application, You already have the idiotic torque of the J35 and then the Headers? that silly spacer is irrelevant to this point you simply wont have the traction to put that power to the ground.
I wouldn't drop the subframe at all, would put my pan at a higher risk at breaking again and I read that the J37 isn't that much help. Plus the price is dumb high for what I would want it for.
#47
Do you guys happen to know why my car is throwing the code p1399?
We've checked the EGR, the EGR passages on the intake mani, and coil packs. Car runs, but won't go past 4000 rpm. Car feels like it has power, but not what it should be having. and at around 2000rpm it has a kind of shhhhhh sound coming from the motor, a pinging.
We've checked the EGR, the EGR passages on the intake mani, and coil packs. Car runs, but won't go past 4000 rpm. Car feels like it has power, but not what it should be having. and at around 2000rpm it has a kind of shhhhhh sound coming from the motor, a pinging.
#48
Senior Moderator
You should see what is like with a built 3.7 Unless you put 275s on it like i did you will have all sorts of problems. I would spin the tires on the hwy passing cars, go to 275s Then its just 1st and 2nd
#49
Senior Moderator
Oh, and Get some hollow J37A1 MDX cams
#50
Senior Moderator
Sounds like you are in limp mode, and EGR shouldnt be causing that. Did your mechanic swap over the crank position sensor, and TDC sensors and cam gear when he did the swap. Did you swap over your motor coils and plugs to this new motor? Double check that the timing is correct.
#51
Moderator
And here I think my MDX 255s are wide... 275 on the TL should look hilarious.
#52
Sounds like you are in limp mode, and EGR shouldnt be causing that. Did your mechanic swap over the crank position sensor, and TDC sensors and cam gear when he did the swap. Did you swap over your motor coils and plugs to this new motor? Double check that the timing is correct.
Coils were swapped and plugs are brand new NGK iridium.
#57
Senior Moderator
And there are no codes?
#58
Senior Moderator
The following 5 users liked this post by fsttyms1:
00TL-P3.2 (03-31-2016),
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Mr. Maker (04-07-2016),
PearlWhite904 (05-03-2016),
teh CL (03-21-2016)
The following 2 users liked this post by HairyMonkey019:
mugenspire (05-04-2016),
teh CL (03-21-2016)
#62
Cam gears, I didn't ask specifically, I just wanted my car back from the dead.
No idea, just told my guy what I wanted and he did everything from there. I didn't tell him much either. First time he's done a swap with a J series. From what I was told, he did swap over quite a few things, also depended as to which parts were in better condition.
No idea, just told my guy what I wanted and he did everything from there. I didn't tell him much either. First time he's done a swap with a J series. From what I was told, he did swap over quite a few things, also depended as to which parts were in better condition.
Last edited by HairyMonkey019; 03-21-2016 at 04:02 PM.
The following users liked this post:
00TL-P3.2 (03-31-2016)
#66
@Gabru, Would love to get a TL meet organized for the summer......once my project is done.... Probably something we could make happen, as we have done in the past with our CanAm Meets. Should be enough TL and CL owners between here and there that would be up for a cross border meet. It's been about 6 years since the last big one.
OP, the engine looks like it is sitting pretty high, or is it just me. When the hood is on, it closes properly, or did you end up spacing the hood?
Sounds great, though, and looks very 'at home' in that engine bay.
OP, the engine looks like it is sitting pretty high, or is it just me. When the hood is on, it closes properly, or did you end up spacing the hood?
Sounds great, though, and looks very 'at home' in that engine bay.
Last edited by SykVSyx; 03-23-2016 at 08:07 AM.
#67
@Gabru, Would love to get a TL meet organized for the summer......once my project is done.... Probably something we could make happen, as we have done in the past with our CanAm Meets. Should be enough TL and CL owners between here and there that would be up for a cross border meet. It's been about 6 years since the last big one.
OP, the engine looks like it is sitting pretty high, or is it just me. When the hood is on, it closes properly, or did you end up spacing the hood?
Sounds great, though, and looks very 'at home' in that engine bay.
OP, the engine looks like it is sitting pretty high, or is it just me. When the hood is on, it closes properly, or did you end up spacing the hood?
Sounds great, though, and looks very 'at home' in that engine bay.
#68
0 cutting.
80mm stainless steel bolts with a lot of nuts and washers in between. Looks like garbage. Trying to figure out what I want more of, fitted hood or power. ..
Clears intake manifold and what not.
Hood doesn't even touch the rubber pieces up front, so nothing to really stabilize it.
80mm stainless steel bolts with a lot of nuts and washers in between. Looks like garbage. Trying to figure out what I want more of, fitted hood or power. ..
Clears intake manifold and what not.
Hood doesn't even touch the rubber pieces up front, so nothing to really stabilize it.
#69
Looks. Bad.
Take out the intake manifold spacer and cut the hood frame.
I have never seen a hood have so much clearance issue with a J series swap.
The Civics are bad enough with the cut hoods, but on a full size sedan, that is NOT a good look.
I have been researching about how to get a little more out of the J35, and it looks like I will go with the 07 TL Type S cams and exhaust valve springs.
Not sure if it is essential that I port the heads/runners as well, but, I think it is probably better to do so with that type of upgrade. Not looking forward to hearing how much a shop is going to charge for that type of work.
Take out the intake manifold spacer and cut the hood frame.
I have never seen a hood have so much clearance issue with a J series swap.
The Civics are bad enough with the cut hoods, but on a full size sedan, that is NOT a good look.
I have been researching about how to get a little more out of the J35, and it looks like I will go with the 07 TL Type S cams and exhaust valve springs.
Not sure if it is essential that I port the heads/runners as well, but, I think it is probably better to do so with that type of upgrade. Not looking forward to hearing how much a shop is going to charge for that type of work.
The following users liked this post:
mugenspire (05-04-2016)
#73
That Intake Manifold spacer NEEDS to go.
The car would look so much better if you just take it out, and have the hood still properly.
Also, did you get a system for tuning, or you are just running the car with the stock ECU?
The car would look so much better if you just take it out, and have the hood still properly.
Also, did you get a system for tuning, or you are just running the car with the stock ECU?
#75
Your car, your preference.....I can let it go.
You can tune an auto, but it does present challenges. Probably not really necessary to tune it, but it can be done if the shop knows what they are doing.
Not sure there is a huge power loss with an auto not being tuned, any increase in power over stock is always a good thing.
Hoping my plans will net me 300whp, but, like yours, it will be auto, so, we'll see. Not sure that I want to shell out the $$$ for the Greddy Emanage Ultimate and the car is an auto.
#78
3 pedals in my 99 TL
iTrader: (4)
damn man, just read through the thread and great work! Although I've seen her in person recently it was cool to read through this and see the whole process. She's looking really nice and I love the wheels a lot and the whole look is just very very clean. Can't wait to see her again in person soon! Woot!
#79
Senior Moderator
Have you tried driving it without the spacer? It would take you all of 20 min to remove. Try removing it and see if you notice any difference. It may change your mind about removing it.
#80