REDLINEN

Anyone know how to do this without Fuc_ing up anything! including the my aem cai?

UnsanePyro

Try a search, there was just a post on it not too long ago. I remember copying the information from another site and I think it got discussed just a bit.

edit: Here is the post that I had from before:

From another site, but it should be some help, though I can't say I cleaned mine using this meathod, I just know mine came squeaky clean from the dealer

Supplies needed:
1) Wash bucket with several different sizes of brushes and towels or sponges.
2) Car shampoo
3) Simple Green degreaser/cleaner, Orange Blast (Thanks to Beachnut), and Super Clean work well too.
4) Extra spray bottle for dilluting the Simple Green (optional)
5) Air compressor or leaf blower for drying
6) Torx screw set
7) About 5 plastic baggies, large enough to cover the alternator
8) Saran Wrap
9) MAG polish, rubber/tire protectant (optional)

Notes:
1) I am not responsible for any damage that occurs to your motor. I will do my best in telling you what to cover, and what to check for excess water but it IS possible for water damage to occur.
2) I am explaining how to clean the new FWD 4cyl, 5cyl and 6cyl motors. The steps will be the same for any engine, but I have never cleaned another Volvo motor so I do not know where water tends to collect on the other motors. If you have suggestions for a RWD Volvo, please post them in my other thread.
3) Before you begin, the engine needs to be cool/warm. NOT HOT! The temp guage should be in the lower 1/4 of its range. If it is still a little warm it will help you get the grime off easier.
4) The ECU box is pretty waterproof, so I do not mention it in the steps, but check to make sure water did not get in before you start the car.


The first and most important thing to do is cover the electricals. I find that a few different sizes of plastic baggies work well. Cover the alternator, distributor, ignition coil, and if you can reach it on your car.. the starter. The fuse box is pretty waterproof, but it wouldnt hurt to cover it with some saran wrap. Cover the battery terminals with saran wrap. Also if you have an 850, put a baggie over the ABS control module. (Newer cars ABS units are in a plastic box)

Once everything is covered, mix your cleaning solution. If your motor is really dirty, you could use the Simple Green full strength. If you feel its not too grimey dilute it by how you see fit. (The dirtier you engine, the stronger you make to solution)

Wet the engine with a light spray, never use a hig pressure spray on your engine. Once it is wet, spray on the Simple Green liberally. Let the product set for a few minutes, don't let it dry. While its soaking, fill your wash bucket with soapy wash water. Use your towels and brushes on the motor. Using a sponge or wash mit clean the bottom side of the hood, and the painted parts of the body. Scrub the grimey parts the most. Some things can be hard to get to and your hands are gonna get beat up and stuck some places. Once everything is scrubbed, rinse lightly but thoroughly. If you feel the process needs to be repeated, do so until you are satisfied.

Take your leaf blower/air compressor and start drying with it. Start with the underside of the hood. Carfull not to blow under the flame retardant hood mat, it comes loose pretty easily. Blow dry all the nooks and cranies until its generally dry. Make sure the injectors are dry (behind the fuel rail) Now use a towel and wipe all the excess water.

Take your torx set and take off the spark plug cover on top of the engine. Water accumulates here VERY easily and water on a spark plug can cause a pretty bad miss which can result in problems later. Wipe it dry, and if there is any sign of moisture in there, pull out each plug wire and make sure it is dry inside. This is very important. Once you are sure it is dry, put the cover back on.

You can now remove the baggies and saran wrap and use a Quick Detail spray on a rag to clean up the alternator, battery terminals and anything else.

If you want to add a little more shine, use a MAG alloy polish like Mothers and a towel to polish the metal. Apply it with pressure and buff it off once it hazes. Use a tire/rubber protectant on the black plastic and buff clean.

Start the car, let it idle for a few minutes while you put everything away. Check to make sure it is not idling rough. Belt squeel for a minute or so is normal especially if you used a spray rubber protectant. (Its the serp. belt) Run the a/c and make sure it blows cold. If all is well, drive it and get it warm.

Thats it!

edit2 Link to the thread: http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95742

Vicman17

UnsanePyro's post above is bang-on!.

If you keep the engine bay clean regularly, besides keeping the appearance, it will prevent any corrosion or substances from damaging parts and components in there. It is good preventive maintenance.

UnsanePyro

It makes it a lot easier to find anything like small leaks too

JPritch

Are the steam cleaning services offered by dealerships safe and effective for cleaning the engine bay?

TOGWT

~One mans opinion / observations~

Engine Compartment Steam Cleaning:
High-pressure steam cleaning can force solutions into the engine harness sheath and associated cables, causing unusual problems that would not have occurred otherwise.

Modern vehicle engine harness multi-plugs and related sealing measures are not designed for the discharge velocity and force of typical commercial steam cleaning units.

Further, cleaning solutions with the high-pressure discharge can leave conductive and often corrosive residues deep within the harness and cables. Most engines are rarely so encrusted with automotive residues and dirt that normal, low-pressure degreasing methods fail to provide proper, efficient cleaning. High-pressure engine steam cleaning is unnecessary and should be restricted to extreme cleaning jobs, such as commercial trucks, off-road vehicles, etc.

~Hope this helps~

Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon