Very fine glass scratches..way to minimize/remove
#2
This is your best bet, but it's super duper fine scratches. If your fingernail can catch it you probably won't be able to buff it out.
#4
No no no no no
NO! Do not use that Gordon glass cerium! No! That is not your "best bet". I promise you polishing glass is a very steady process with a very steady hand. You need a good polisher/sander. Makita is the best in my opinion.
You need to prep your windshield with scrubbing the surface with a heavy degreaser using a spongy bug remover pad. Their a dollar and cents at Walmart. Before rinsing the surface run a clay bar over that with good pressure. Rinse it off and dry the surface.
Next with your orbital buffer using a foam cutting pad on lowest rpm possible begin to work in the 3M product I have listed below. Work in the product very slowly don't splatter it all over making a mess. It's a long process if you want results. It should take 15 minutes separately from one side to the other. Progressively work more of the product in increasing the rpms on your buffer. eventually meeting full rpm steadily on the higher speeds you must carefully, I mean carefully! Monitor yourself and the heat/presure your putting on the glass while buffing. That's why you must take your time.
Yes. It is possible to burn glass. And yes burned or poorly/corsely buffed glass is not opticly clear. If you know how to buff paint it shouldn't be a challenge as you are aware of how strong glass is, it can take a lot of heat in buffing out the streaks. If you never used a buffer find somone you know for a fact can show you and help you with this one.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Glass-Polishing-Compound-Capacity/dp/B007460F7Q
This is the product I was talking about. You don't need the commercial size bottle, you can find a much smaller bottle for personal use for $25 dollars.
NO! Do not use that Gordon glass cerium! No! That is not your "best bet". I promise you polishing glass is a very steady process with a very steady hand. You need a good polisher/sander. Makita is the best in my opinion.
You need to prep your windshield with scrubbing the surface with a heavy degreaser using a spongy bug remover pad. Their a dollar and cents at Walmart. Before rinsing the surface run a clay bar over that with good pressure. Rinse it off and dry the surface.
Next with your orbital buffer using a foam cutting pad on lowest rpm possible begin to work in the 3M product I have listed below. Work in the product very slowly don't splatter it all over making a mess. It's a long process if you want results. It should take 15 minutes separately from one side to the other. Progressively work more of the product in increasing the rpms on your buffer. eventually meeting full rpm steadily on the higher speeds you must carefully, I mean carefully! Monitor yourself and the heat/presure your putting on the glass while buffing. That's why you must take your time.
Yes. It is possible to burn glass. And yes burned or poorly/corsely buffed glass is not opticly clear. If you know how to buff paint it shouldn't be a challenge as you are aware of how strong glass is, it can take a lot of heat in buffing out the streaks. If you never used a buffer find somone you know for a fact can show you and help you with this one.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Glass-Polishing-Compound-Capacity/dp/B007460F7Q
This is the product I was talking about. You don't need the commercial size bottle, you can find a much smaller bottle for personal use for $25 dollars.
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justnspace (03-06-2015)
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