vasu

exactly, interior is important, after all you drive the car from the *inside*

Get 303 Protectant (there's a dealer search on their site, google for it) or Lexol's Vinylex. The 303 will leave more of a matt finish, which i think for the TSX is more desirable.

-vasu

spelldog

Thanks.

What are the best washes to use on a weekly basis?

vasu

I just switched sides and became a Zaino user. Their wash is fine, I used the Finish First wash before.

iVTECHokie

Vasu -

Great FAQ. I have a couple of comments/questions.

1. The claying process and/or preping the paint with a pre-wax cleaner (like One Grand Omega Hand Glaze or P21S Paintwork Cleanser) will remove the wax on the car far more efficiently than Dawn. The pre-wax cleaner also povides a really nice deep shine to apply your polymer or carnauba wax over. So if you are claying the car or using a pre-wax cleaner do you really need to use Dawn?

2. I recommend using a 100% Cotton Terry Towel, Cotton Terry Washmit (as you also recommend), or Sheepskin wash mit to wash the car down as opposed to a foam sponge. The sponge will not lift and trap dirt like any of the other methods listed above. Dirt will stay trapped between the sponge and paint as you slide it around. Even a natural sponge would be a better option (not much better and make sure you really clean it well before the first use to remove any sand or shells!). What ever the method you should rinse and rinse often!

3. Thanks for taking the time to consolidate all this information!

vasu

Probably not, as long as you do a god job cleaning and follow up you'll be fine. Here in New Orleans though, there's so much crap in the air, and on my black car, it really works out best to just sometimes wash it hardcore with Dawn and get all the crud from the city off.

That's a good recomendation on both counts, esp the rinsing the cloth often. To be honest, I've really grown fond of the soft bristle brush things. Both one on a long stick and one with a short handle to get to the smaller areas. I can clean my car much more quickly by taking long sweeps across it, it's great! And the bristles aggitate well without scractching

No problem, got nothin else to do. I actually turned this FAQ into a site for a web design project. When I have the time from class, other projects, I'll make the final changes and give the link out.

-vasu

DeathClaw

Great thread! I just have a couple questions:

1. I recently bought a CG TSX. Do I need to wait a while before applying a polish (i.e. Zaino's ZFX)?

2. When doing the "hardcore detailing process" with the polish (Zaino's ZFX), should I use Dawn soap only for the first time? When it's time to apply again, say in six months, should I go through exactly the same process with the Dawn soap and all?

3. I am planning to use Zaino's polish. So I need ZFX, Z-6 ... but do I need Z-2 (clear coated car finish) or Z-3 (regular paint)?

Thank you for your time, and sorry if these have already been answered.

vasu

Now's a perfect time to do it. No need to wait, your paint is perfectly cured and ready to go

Quote:

2. When doing the "hardcore detailing process" with the polish (Zaino's ZFX), should I use Dawn soap only for the first time? When it's time to apply again, say in six months, should I go through exactly the same process with the Dawn soap and all?

It's really a case by case basis. In my situation here in New Orleans, there's so much industrial fall out, pollen, sulfer and acid rain. Not to mention I have palm trees at my house that love to drop these tiny little, incredibly sticky pods all over my car. If your car is mega dirty on a constant basis, feel free to rewash with Dawn. If not, you'll be perfectly fine using a normal car wash and prepping it before protecting with either a clay bar, paint prep, or even better, both.

Some say using dawn twice a year is overkill and could cause damage, I disagree. If you're hesitant at all, don't feel forced to use it twice a year or at all if you don't want to.

Like I said in my situation, using Dawn twice a year really helps get those little palm tree seed/pods off and decreases the ammount of elbow work I have to put in when using a paint prep and/or clay bar.

Quote:

3. I am planning to use Zaino's polish. So I need ZFX, Z-6 ... but do I need Z-2 (clear coated car finish) or Z-3 (regular paint)?

Thank you for your time, and sorry if these have already been answered.

Get ZFX and Z-2. Z-2 is for newer cars with clear coats, which is pretty much any car since 1990. Z-6 is an optional step, it's a spray that you spray on after maintainence washings to maintain your shine. It doesn't increase protection, just shine after using a normal car wash without having to re-polymerize, which you should only have to do 1-2 times a year.

-vasu

Homer2

Deathclaw . . . Im going to agree with vasu. Take care of the car the day you get it. Its better - sooner. You might even want to consider clay bar use on a first time, new car application. You have the glorious opportunity of near-perfect paint. Take that extra hour or so and get absolutely everything off the car, and yes there are things that Dawn wont remove.

CG ? Is that charcoal grey? If so, you might want to consider the ZF instead of Z2. If you are not buying the kit - with everything in it - that would be a worthwhile thought. Z5 helping you to stay ahead of micro-swirling etc that almost always can be found - expecially on darker colours.

Z6? Depending on where you live, and your car care habits - simply washing the car with the Z7 car wash, and use of the Z6 extends the applied Zaino lifespan well beyond 3 months . .The car wash contains some enhancing polymers,and the detail spray makes the car seemed freshly treated. The joy of Z6, if the car is simply dusty (depending on rain fall where you live, this can be for 6 months of the year) - then all you do is dust the car, and then 3 minutes applying Z6 gloss enhance, and voile - the car shines like you spent hours on it....

Using Dawn afetr several months to apply more coats is not a problem really. The car likely still has Zaino on it, and Dawn does not affect Zaino at all. if you have treated the car well inbetween these "sessions" - it would be fine to do that before applying more layers. If that is what you want to do, it will be fine. BUT, why not apply more Zaino layers every so often. each one makes the car look better, as it layers up, and each one helps hide the swirls that might be there. It is so fast to do, I cant imagine going 6 months without adding many layers to increase the results . .

DeathClaw

Thank you so much for the replies vasu and Homer2. You answered my questions perfectly

spelldog

Question on Dawn.....I don't know what the dealer used to shine up the car when I bought it. If he used wax, would dawn hurt? I was planning on using dawn and then the zaino process w/ clay, polish etc.

Also - what is the deal with the "Only made in the usa" 100% cotton towels. I just bought a 100% cotton pack from Sam's, washed them and then noticed they are not "made in the usa". I assume this has more to do with politics than science?

I also boght the "absorber" - synthetic chamois, would I be better off w/ regular microfiber towels?

Homer2

1 - Dawn will remove ANY wax on a car - plain and simple. Thats why we say t iuse it before the Zaino process begins - you dont want wax on it.

2- made in the usa or canada cotton ensures all cotton. offshore uses poly in the backing materials and only the nap is cotton. thats the way it is/was for a long time - different rules out there.

3- microfibre can not be beat for drying or polish removal, detail spray use etc . . keep in mind - drying m/f is different than polish removal/detailing microfibre. They are processed differently, and be sure which the manufacturer is giving you. A popular item on the net is the "big blue" type drying towel . . . you could check out www.waynestowels.com for some more ideas. he has great stuff . . .

spelldog

Thanks Homer.

So I guess I either need to cut off all the seams or return the towels. I will also be returning the "absorber" and getting some sort of microfiber towels for drying. I did get the Cali Water Blade as well.

Homer2

its not just the seams, but that is important . .. it is also the backing material the cotton nap is sewn onto . .. thats the real potential for damage . . . thin nap, poly backing . .. yikes . .. if you want to stay with cotton, get Royal Velvet by Cannon Fieldcrest or go crazy and get their Charisma line . .. then again - good microfibre outlasts cotton as well as does more . ..

spelldog

hmmmm, guess I will be making a return trip to Sam's Club!

joerockt

Vasu, I have a few questions.

1) You mentioned that, back in the day, circular motions were used for "wax on, wax off", but now back and forth motions should be used. If so, how do you explain the popularity of orbital buffers? I have a 9" buffer that works awesome, and as long as you use a clean cloth, no swirlies.

2) Any comments about Griot's products? They seem pretty expensive, but it looks like they've been around for a while. http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp

Thanks...

Homer2

current polishers are random orbital . . . unless you spent the big bucks on a porter cable . .

the direction of application is as much to do with the way light deals with zaino as it is about marking the surface . . why enhance it - there are natural eliptical patterns in paint pigment, until you polish them down with wetsanding etc . . .. a porter cable with the right peoducts in the skilled hands of someone can and does do wonders . . .

the straight directions is about "countering" the already existing swirls . . . the product fills them better since you are crossing over the indent . ..

griots stuff is fine . .. you wont go wrong with that . ..

its best (if you can afford it) to try out as many products as you can (based on excellent referrals) - until you have your socks knocked off . ..

vasu

ditto

Homer2

ah - the strong silent type huh ?

DEVO

Ok. so I had wax on my car, as an experiment i used dawn to wash it. My car still beaded as if it had a layer of wax on it. If you guys think that dawn alone will remove wax, you need to rethink your process. Granted DAWN will remove a lot more than a regular car wash soap but I think you need to clay your car in order to truly get all the wax off.

daniel1113

Alright guys,

I will be getting my TSX is two weeks, and figured I should learn how to take care of it before it is too late. I am absolutely clueless about the auto cleaning process, so I am pretty much starting from scratch here. I have been reading through all of the posts on this board, along with the guides available at Autopia, for the better part of the night. While reading, I have been taking notes, and writing down some of the products I may need to purchase in order to clean, wax, and protect my car. Would you guys mind checking it out, and providing any recommendations? I am sure there are things on the list that I don't need, or other products that would be better. Thanks a bunch.

1. OXO Wash Brush
2. Detailers Hose Nozzle
3. Sonüs Ultimate Drying Towel
4. Sonüs Ultimate Detailing Towels
5. 100% Cotton Terry Detailing Towels
6. Chenille Wash Sponge
7. P21S Total Auto Wash
8. Sonüs Acrylic Spritz
9. Klasse ALL-IN-ONE
10. Sonüs Gloss Shampoo
11. The Perfect Shine Detailing Clay Intro Package
12. 303 Aerospace Protectant
13. OXO Twister Snow Brush
14. Handi-Grip Applicator (Foam)

All of these products can be found at Autopia, and they all look pretty good. But I am not sure how much is a result of the author wanting to make a sale through his website.

Vicman17

Dawn has a very high alkaline content. Like what it does to the oils on your kitchen sink, it will remove most waxes and strip the finish, but you also have to remember that it will dry out your rubber and plastic mouldings and strips and eventually damage them. Simply as removing the moisture from these parts and drying them out.

If all you want is to remove the waxes already on the car, claying, then a paint cleaner like Mother's or Meg's DC 1 or Body Scrub will remove them the same. Carnauba eventually washes off the finish so after a few weeks, it's gone from the finish anyway.

I know zaino users use it as a prep suggested by the zaino company but I'm a bit concerned about what it will do to the unpainted parts of your car.

DCyamaha

question.... I really really hate the claying process. For one, i've never watched someone do it, so I'm kind of clueless even with detailed directions. And the fact that it takes soo damn long to do really turns me off.

I bought my tsx in September and Have only washed the car a few times. I have yet to wax it. Are there other alternatives to prep the paint for Zaino ZFX other than clay bar?

If I use DAWN plus the zaino paint prep product, would that suffice in lue of a clay bar?

I then want to use the ZFX on the car.

thanks for the help guys.

lokman

You don't have to clay, but you definitely notice a difference. I really do not think there are any other practical alternatives to a clay bar for the average consumer. You could practice on a panel or two on an older car to get the hang of claying before moving on to your TSX. It does take a long time, but the results are well worth it.

(P.S. Just making sure, I see you mentioned Zaino ZFX - ZFX must be used in conjunction with either Z2 or Z5.)

joerockt

No. Particles get stuck in the paint and it takes the clay to pull them out. Why does it take you so long? You only need to pass over the same place once or twice. It takes me about 15-20mins on the TSX. And besides, you only need to do it like twice a year, if that. So who cares if it takes that much time??

Dont use dawn. Use a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water. Its a lot eaiser on the paint then Dawn.

Vicman17

Claying removes "dug-in" contaminants like rail dust that are imbedded on the surface of your clearcoat. Think of them as very small metal filings and are sharp as knives that can cause depressions on the surface of the clearcoat in the long run. Claying safely removes these, as well as other dirty and gritty stuff.

As lokman stated, you "can" do away without claying but would you want to? Laying on a good surface sealant like Zaino will just seal-in these things on your paint that will definitely make it harder to remove them later on.

Once you try claying a panel and notice the difference, you will want to continue doing the whole car.

To make your step shorter, I suggest this-

-Have 2 buckets of water ready. One for washing and the other for rinsing.
-Wash your car like you typically would and dry with a MF towel.
-Replace the water on the 2 buckets with clean water only.
-Clay one panel at a time, wash it clean with water and then dry it. Then apply your sealant to that panel then move on to the next.

It looks intimidating if you picture you're gonna do the whole hood/trunk/roof, so do a quarter section at a time.

It's like integrating the claying together with your waxing/polishing.

geogecko

Looks like a first for this question...

My wife has an '04 TSX, and we usually drive this car when we go out of town (the '93 Lude just isn't as reliable as she used to be with 190K miles). Problem with that is when it comes time for me to wash it. The front end of this car looks like a bug graveyard, and it's nearly impossible to get the, excuse me, guts off of it.

Are there any tricks or products (hopefully that don't take off a wax finish) that make this job easier?

Please help me out if you can!

darth62

A sure fire way to get bugs off the bumper is too use a claybar. The bumpers can handle a more aggressive cleaner (like a diluted all purpose cleaner) than the body, and a slighty more abbrassive cleaning tools. For example, I bought a bug sponge at autogeek.com, and it has proved really handy. I sure you can get something like that at your local autozone or pep boys.

HiG4s

I see your point, but anyone that is an avid Zaino user would only use Dawn once.. I used it once on my Integra, and then never put anything but a polymer polish after that so never had to use anything to strip off old wax again and always washed it with Zanio wash.

DarkWraith33

That's cool BUT... Why quasi-half-ass it when you're trying to take of your baby? I mean you paid good money for the Zaino to begin with, right? Which means you want the car to be protected correctly and look good... Why save what... Like an hour or two, and use Dawn, when you could use a product that is truly designed to remove old wax and get you down to a clean bare car??!?

Do you SERIOUSLY think that 1 washing with Dawn removes ALL old wax on your car? Uh, I doubt it... I'll go as far as no F'in way... (If it does, holy crap make sure the wife rinses those dishes good!!!) I'm willing to bet the rain in parts of the country is awful in polltants as well. That doesn't get wax off in one fail swoop that I am aware of. (A stretch of an analogy... but I am trying to get a point across.)

This weekend, I am gonna clean and wax my hood the normal way with my Megs carnuba.... Then I'll wash it with Dawn (which I know I have at home) and we'll see how my hood feels. It'll be real obvious whether the wax is there or not. If it's gone, I'll be the first to throw apologies hither and yon....... and buy the beer...

Can you smell the anticipation and excitement? Experiments are cool... I wonder if Mythbusters would dig into this? LOL

BallsOfSteel

BINGO !!!! Never use Dawn. Dawn is formulated for dishes not cars. Keep using Dawn to wash your car for several years and you will see your finish destroyed regardless of what other wax products you use it with.

darrinb

whats a good swirl mark remover to use my hand, something strounger than z-5??

i have a black car

01bluecls

You asked about the PB's on CLpower thread. By hand, I would recommend Poorboys line up SSR2.5 and SSR1 specifically. I have only used them with a PC, but I can tell you its the easiest polish to work with and results are great.

01bluecls

Z-5 I find doesnt hide any swirls at all. Its def not made to polish swirls out like the name intends to sound like. I mean Z-5 may hide the SLIGHTEST swirls but i no it doesnt actually REMOVE any. There are no abrasives in Z-5 so therefore no actual swirl REMOVING exists. PB's SSR2.5 doesnt use fillers, so what you see is what you get. Meaning when you are done with the finish and see the swirls have dissapeared, then they are gone and not just hidden.

TOGWT

I have a couple of questions-

1.Why do you let polish cure for 24 hours (A sealant requires this (with one exception) but a polish doesn’t
2.Zanio ZFX is a sealant accelerator, which allows you to use up to three layers of Z products without a ‘cure’ time. Three layers are a max after which you are required to wait 24 hours between each layer
3.Z2PRO + ZFX is an improvement on the ‘shine’ qualities of previous products
4.Foam pads are usually washed between uses, I don’t know of many professional detailers that use quality foam pads (i.e. Lake County Mfg.) as an expendable resource
5.I’ve found ‘aquaplaning’ a clay bar across a paint surface as an easily way of describing the detailers clay process
6.Boars hair or horse hair car washing brushes are very sift and will not cause surface marring (although I will admit many detailers do not feel comfortable using them)the washing brush made by OXO is also gaining a highly regarded reputation on Autopia, the same is true of the California water blade, silicone is an inert material and on its own will not cause surface marring (if there is road grit ./ dirt trapped between it and the paint surface that’s another story) I personally will only use a water blade on glass surfaces, but that’s just me

Great first post, very informative
JonM

TOGWT

Dawn Detergent Liquid-
“Your car surface and the dirt that gets on it are a lot different from the food soils and dishes that dishwashing liquids clean effectively. We don't recommend them for cleaning your car”. Proctor and Gamble (See also detergents)
JonM

yunginTL

where is the thread on polishes? and also this is what brings out the shine and waxes seal it correccT?

BlackAc036

nice thread great stuff...

carcar

Although some of the information in this thread is biased and thus skewed, I'd like to add my thoughts.

It is really not the PRODUCT that you use, but the PROCESS. I know it's easy to get caught up in the Zaino thing, or this Finish First product, but there are plenty of decent products out there besides them, and it's okay to mix and match product lines (unless there are bonding issues).

For washing, as TOGWT mentioned, Sheepskin is great, Boar's Hair is fine, but regular synthetic sponges, Low-Quality cotton mitts/towel are not good for your paint. There is simply too much risk involved, and your better off getting a Sheepskin Mitt (from Autopia-Car Care, Autogeek, even Wal-Mart's Eurow Sheepskin mitts are decent, if you "hand pick" them for softness). Use a specially formulated car wash soap. There really is no need for Dawn, as some sealants it WON'T strip, especially if you use a weak concentration.

Instead, when you clay the car you will remove all the old waxes, sealants, and the other bad stuff claying gets rid of. Since you're claying anyway, just skip the harsh Dawn and use a regular car soap (Gold Class, NXT, etc., etc.) for your "first" wash.

Drying: Cotton towels tend to lint, and really high quality ones can be just as pricey as microfiber, so I simply suggesting buying 1 or 2 large Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towels (Excel-Detail.com, Autopi-CarCare.com, etc.) and use those for drying. Use compressed air to blow water out of crevices. The California Water Blade (or similar) is nice in concept, but the risk of getting a piece of dirt in the blade isn't worth it for me. If I really wanted one, I would only use it on windows. Instead, for the paint, take the nozzle off your hose and let the water flow freely out of the hose, holding it 2-4 inches from the paint, and watch the water just sheet off. Proceed to dry with your waffle weave microfiber towel(s).

Claying: I think everyone has touched on this in this thread already. The brand really doesn't matter, I personally haven't encountered any bad clay, so I just buy ClayMagic Clay because it is a) only $9.99 with lube b) locally available.

Polishing/Cleaning/Prep: The "prep" step is very important for a finish. If you lay your beloved Zaino over an unprepped surface full of swirls, yeah it'll be shiny, but there will still be all the swirls. And no, Z5 doesn't remotely remove swirls, and it doesn't do a very good job at hiding them either. What you really need is a paint polish or cleaner. Something WITHOUT any waxes, fillers, etc. in it is best, so other sealants and waxes can bond with it properly. One of the nicest products for very light swirl and oxidation removal, and for general paint cleaning is Klasse AIO. Apply by hand or PC (on finishing pad) it does a very nice job and leaves some acrylic protection behind, but this protection is easily bondable with carnauba wax and most sealants (I don't know about Zaino, though). However, the process is what really matters so another paint cleaner/light polish will do just fine (like Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub Paint Cleaner, Meguiar's Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, etc.) For more moderate swirls and severe problems, see Autopia.org for more information, as there is a LOT to cover about polishes/abrasiveness/severity, etc.

LSP (Last Step Product): The LSP can be a wax or sealant. The common route for a daily driver is a synthetic sealant topped with a carnauba wax. There are many to choose from, and Zaino is one of them. It's been said before, ZAINO IS NOT A POLISH. It simply seals the paint and protects it for a long time, which makes it very durable and a nice choice for your daily driver. "Topping" Zaino (either Z2 or Z5) with a carnauba paste wax has produced no results for me over the Zaino - in other words, I couldn't tell a difference between the Zaino plus Wax section or the just plain Zaino section. My personal opinion on Zaino is it's great durability, but the plasticky look it produces and its overpowering look that doesn't allow the carnauba wax to "glow" through are not ideal for a detailing enthusiast such as myself.

Different sealants produce different looks on different colors. Zaino really looks it's best on lighter colors, but when on dark colors, a carnauba wax cannot be beat. For light-colored vehicles (in an instance where you would like to finish with a carnauba wax), try Four-Star UPP. It is amazingly slick, decent durability (although not Zaino), and nicely topped. Topping it with Pinnacle Paste Glaz wax ir awesome for light colored metallics. For dark colored cars, I enjoy Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant. It has a nice deep liquid look, darkening the finish. Durability isn't as good as Zaino, but compromises must be made for optimum appearance. Topping Wolfgang with Pinnacle Souveran looks AMAZING. Souveran is hands down the best at dark colors, but it is usually around $70 a jar (including free detail spray and microfiber towel. It was recently on sale for $47 shipped after discount on Autopia, though).

However, there are so many nice sealants out there from brands like Poorboy's, Klasse, Four Star, Meguiar's (their new #21 Synthetic looks nice), Wolfgang, and so on and waxes from Pinnacle, Poorboy's, Meguiar's, etc. that one has a lot of options. Once again, I suggest Autopia.org for more information.

Maintenance: A car duster is great for light touch ups (stressing light such as dust), but a quality Quick Detail spray can be your best friend. Combined with a proper microfiber towel (excel-detail.com, autopia car care.com, pakshak.com, etc.) will do wonders in between washings. It's important to know when you should was or QD. Personally, if there is any soiling on the vehicle I just wash it, but a product like Poorboy's Spray and Wipe (not a QD, more like a cross between washing and QDing) can bridge the gap. Once again, many QDs available, lots of options, can't really go wrong. Some QDs have varying degrees of wax in them, so just choose a QD that is matched with the brand of sealant to be on the safe side before you learn the differences and qualities of each QD spray.

Wheels and Tires: Use quality brushes and cleaners. OXO and Meguiar's new brushes are excellent and safe. For cleaners, use something non-acidic for safety. Many are available so you shouldn't have a problem. Dressing the tires is no problem...I've never encountered a BAD dressing, but good ones are nice to have around. My favorite is Wolfgang Black Diamond Tire Gel, but Michelin 3-in-1 Tire Shine (autozone) and Poorboy's Bold and Bright dressings are all nice. Meguiar's High Endurance is available locally. Be careful of overspray on the paint, though.

Engine: I've recently detailed our Odyssey's engine (the TL is still new ) and used a LIGHT pressure nozzle on the hose, moving quickly over the engine, not spending too much time in one place. My dad who used to be a mechanic for 20+ years helped me avoid certain parts. After rinsing I used a nice degreaser by Autoglym (Autopia Car Care), but many degreasers are available and you really can't go wrong. I rinsed off the same way I originally rinsed, and dressed with 303 Protectant the hoses, plastic engine cover, etc. It looked really nice, but you must be careful with engines. Know the engine and it's parts before spraying water on it.

Good Luck! If you have any questions or comments please shoot me a PM or post in reply!

Carl Schlegel
Schlegel Mobile Detailing

carcar

I guess I can't edit my message?

In reference to the original post: polymers are not acrylic. Acrylic and polymer are two different substances. Polymer sealant is not plastic either!

Just a note: Griot's products are quite pricey and are no better than anything else I've seen.

If you just got a new car, you should detail it. However, I would suggest you look at your car in the sunlight before heading straight to the Zaino. The prep step is important (and by prep I don't mean clay and Dawn wash as implied by Zaino instructions). Many many many cars come detailed when you take delivery of them (new and used cars alike), and lots of the dealers are not experienced/don't use the best process for detailing.

Here is what a dealer did to this TSX. It is 18 months of "abuse" by various detailers at the Acura and Toyota dealer. A fellow Autopia detailed this (GSRstilez) and the turn around was great, but the before pictures are horrendous, and show the importance of taking care of your car (and not having it detailed by the dealer at all costs). (Great turnaround Sean "GSRstilez!)



So before laying on the Zaino, make sure to wash, clay, AND use a proper polish or paint cleaner (by hand or PC, depending on severity) to lay down a really nice surface swirl-free before going to your sealant of choice (which seems to be Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino in mass quantities).

After


The process used by Sean involved in restoring this finish was the use of a rotary polisher and wool buffing pad (a rare occurance, but it was so bad), followed by foam cutting and polishing pads with Menzerna Polishes, topped with Poorboy's EX sealant.

FastJoe

What should I do when I first get my car?

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/what-should-i-do-when-i-first-get-my-car-324259/