Turtle ice Wax

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Old 01-13-2007, 04:16 PM
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Talking Turtle ice Wax

never think that I would be bias toward a brand of washing soap for cars but
today after washing both cars with two different brands, there are differences.
wasn't even a test; used left over and opened a new bottle.
both purchased at Costco btw.
Turtle Ice Wash and Meguiar's Gold Wash....the result\

I am very impressed with Turtle Ice Wash, left my black car with more shine compared to my other black car, a slicky smooth surface and no streaks.

both cars are black and polished and waxed last week....

definitely recommend storing an extra bottle away before Costco sells out.
just my opinions...
Old 01-13-2007, 04:30 PM
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My , if you're satisfied with the results of the product you're using, then by all means continue to use it. After a wash I follow with a QD ..... that just helps prolong and extend the initial coat of sealant.
Old 01-13-2007, 05:06 PM
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Arrow Turtle Ice Wash

oops.. meant the title to say, Turtle Ice Wash..
Old 01-15-2007, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Daggra105
never think that I would be bias toward a brand of washing soap for cars but
today after washing both cars with two different brands, there are differences.
wasn't even a test; used left over and opened a new bottle.
both purchased at Costco btw.
Turtle Ice Wash and Meguiar's Gold Wash....the result\

I am very impressed with Turtle Ice Wash, left my black car with more shine compared to my other black car, a slicky smooth surface and no streaks.

both cars are black and polished and waxed last week....

definitely recommend storing an extra bottle away before Costco sells out.
just my opinions...
I was wondering about that stuff! I loved the Meg's gold wash, but they are carrying the turtle wax now at costco and I passed it up last time I was there thinking I would get the Meg's somewhere else. perhaps I'll try the turtle
Old 01-15-2007, 12:07 PM
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hey guys, new to this forum

my friend recommended turtle ice wax. has any one used it? i'm guessing since the wash works well, the wax should too
Old 01-15-2007, 01:10 PM
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Someone did like a mini-review and mentioned it wasn't as durable as some of the other sealants talked about in this forum. If you're looking at a sealant which is economical as well durable try the Duragloss products. More specifically 105 or 111.

Last edited by Hawhyen51; 01-15-2007 at 01:13 PM.
Old 01-15-2007, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawhyen51
Someone did like a mini-review and mentioned it wasn't as durable as some of the other sealants talked about in this forum. If you're looking at a sealant which is economical as well durable try the Duragloss products. More specifically 105 or 111.
since these are "polishers" would they replace my wax that i'm using or would i still need to wax and then apply these?
Old 01-15-2007, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by faboloso
since these are "polishers" would they replace my wax that i'm using or would i still need to wax and then apply these?
There's always been a confusion between the terms "wax" and "polish" in detailing products. Here's an excerpt from the Car Care Research Guide:
Waxing and polishing—why they're not the same
. . . Waxes lay over your paint for both protection and shine. They can also bring out incredible depth in the color of your paint. Whether paste or liquid, waxes are generally smooth for easy application and designed only to be applied on clean and pristine paint.

Polishes are abrasive, which isn't a bad thing. Over time, microscopic particles, swirl marks, spot rings and other tiny damage can cloud or otherwise undermine the shine of your paint. Polishes even the surface and remove tiny imperfections, leaving a completely smooth surface. Polished paint is healthier and ready to produce a deeper shine than an un-polished surface when waxed.
So basically, polishing removes/corrects paint imperfections and does not really have protective abilities. A layer of wax/sealant is the layer protecting your paint. The process would be to polish then seal. BTW, synthetic waxes (sealants,polymers) have better durability and longevity over a natural wax like carnuba.
Old 01-15-2007, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by faboloso
since these are "polishers" would they replace my wax that i'm using or would i still need to wax and then apply these?
105 is a non abrasive type cleaner/polish, sealant.
111 is a pure sealant.
Old 01-15-2007, 05:35 PM
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thanks for the info! the stores near me don't seem to carry duragloss. any over the counter recommendations for polish + wax?
Old 01-15-2007, 06:14 PM
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According to the DG site, they're supposedly available at
  • Car Quest
  • Auto Value
  • Federated
  • IAPA
  • Pronto
  • Napa
  • Parts Plus
or you can purchase them online. Exceldetail carries DG as does Autogeek.
Old 01-15-2007, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by faboloso
thanks for the info! the stores near me don't seem to carry duragloss. any over the counter recommendations for polish + wax?
I prefer the Meg's #7 show car polish, and either Meg's #20 or #21 sealants in the professional line, or use the last two steps of the Meg's deep crystal 3step system for an easily obtainable polish and wax
Old 01-15-2007, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
I prefer the Meg's #7 show car polish, and either Meg's #20 or #21 sealants in the professional line, or use the last two steps of the Meg's deep crystal 3step system for an easily obtainable polish and wax
You do know that #7 leaves trademark oils, that dont sit well with Polymer crosslinking?
Old 01-15-2007, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
You do know that #7 leaves trademark oils, that dont sit well with Polymer crosslinking?
Never had any problems, but I am still using up my profection sealant
Old 01-15-2007, 11:28 PM
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The problems would be evident from a durability standpoint. Not so much an application standpoint.
Old 01-16-2007, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
The problems would be evident from a durability standpoint. Not so much an application standpoint.
After discussing the issue that you raised with mike phillips at Meg's, unless you can produce some documentation to back up that statement I will have to call it BS. It sounds very much like Zaino propoganda
Old 01-23-2007, 11:43 PM
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i use Turtle Wax, ICE polish. its AWESOME!!! thats all i have to say

Old 01-24-2007, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
After discussing the issue that you raised with mike phillips at Meg's, unless you can produce some documentation to back up that statement I will have to call it BS. It sounds very much like Zaino propoganda
LMAO!
That came from MP! I used his exact quotes. "Megs #7 Show Car Glaze (Not Polish as you referred to) leaves trademark oils".
Factoid: Polymers need a sterile surface to provide the best durability.
Believe it or not. (Coming from a guy who doesnt sell Meguairs products)
PS: Why do most well known OTC Polymer protectants have some type of cleaner built in??
Megs 21
Mothers, to name a couple.

Last edited by exceldetail; 01-24-2007 at 07:58 AM.
Old 01-28-2007, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
LMAO!
That came from MP! I used his exact quotes. "Megs #7 Show Car Glaze (Not Polish as you referred to) leaves trademark oils".
Factoid: Polymers need a sterile surface to provide the best durability.
Believe it or not. (Coming from a guy who doesnt sell Meguairs products)
PS: Why do most well known OTC Polymer protectants have some type of cleaner built in??
Megs 21
Mothers, to name a couple.
you may find this information valuable.

Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
I posted this to a similar thread but thought I would add it to this one also...

I read a lot of people's opinion on this subject on multiple forums and most of the time it relates back to somebody's advice to wash your car with strong detergent soap to remove anything from the surface so that somebody's polymer will bond to the surface.

From one of our chemists...



Here's something else to think about, although in a different industry, there are parallels in the bonding and protecting topic that apply.

Meguiar's created the first mold release wax for the infant mold release industry in 1950. To this date, M08 Maximum Mold Release Wax continues to be one of the most popular mold release waxes in the world.



Recently, Meguiar's introduced a brand new synthetic liquid polymer mold release wax system called Meguiar's Velocity Liquid Synthetic Mold Release System.



Now let me tie this together and show how Meguiar's mold release systems, both paste waxes and liquid synthetic polymer systems are vital to creating finished parts like Yachts, and how important it is that the mold release wax bond, or adhere to the mold.


A new, or green mold is originally prepped by sanding smooth the surface and then compounding the surface to remove the sanding marks.

After that, the mold surface is polished to a high gloss. The smoother and glossier the surface can be made, the smoother and glossier the part being reproduced from the mold will be. This cuts down on post-production finishing work.

Now follow me on this....

The polishes used for machine polishing the molds are both very rich in Meguiar's trade secret polishing oils. These rich polishing oils help to create a brilliant high gloss finish on the mold. The two most used polishes for this process are,

M03 Machine Glaze



M82 Mold Polish



After polishing the mold with either of these two products, Meguiar's recommends applying the mold release wax next, either the traditional paste wax system, or the new liquid synthetic polymer system.

These are to be applied onto the mold surface after polishing, the excess polish is wiped off, but the mold is not washed with dish soap to remove any remaining polishing oils because they are part of the system. As the chemist stated above,




Now it is vital that the mold release wax adhere to the surface to create a barrier coating to prevent the lay-up material, (usually polyester resin with a catalyst), from sticking to the mold. If the mold release wax fails to bond to the surface evenly over the entire surface, to create this barrier layer, then the resin will stick to the mold and the part will not release.

This is called, sticking a mold and it's not a good thing! Imagine sticking a 75' Yacht mold! The owner of the boat building business would be out the mold, the raw materials to make the part, (the part is the yacht), and the labor invested in everything, plus the down time due to the fact that the mold is not producing a sale-able product.

Ouch!

If you have ever worked with polyester resin, or even mixing 2-part epoxy glue together, then you know how sticky these materials are.

Do you understand how important it is now for a mold release wax to bond or adhere to the surface of the mold?

Now think about it for a few minutes... Meguiar's has been producing pure polishes since 1901. We've been making the M03 Machine Glaze since sometime in the 1930's, (I think), maybe 1940's or 1950's, but I'm pretty sure since the 1930's. We've been making mold release wax since 1950, that's 55 years of production for M08 Maximum Mold Release wax.

A lot of boats have been successfully built using Meguiar's mold release wax systems with a long track record of not sticking molds. If Meguiar's though it would be better to wash a mold with dish soap, or wipe it down with a 50/50 mixture of water and Isopropyl Alcohol before applying a mold release wax so that it will properly bond, then we would recommend this and we would have started recommending it a long time ago. But removing any Meguiar's polishing oils from the surface of a mold is not the best way to insure our waxes adhere and thus we don't recommend removing them before applying our waxes in fact just the opposite, we recommend polishing the surface first, and then applying the wax.

While boat molds and car finishes are very different items, the same ideas of cleaning, polishing and then applying a wax apply to both surfaces when using Meguiar's products.

Meguiar's chemists insure that all the products in our systems, whether it's the Velocity Mold Release System, or the Deep Crystal System, work with one another. each product building on the results from the previous product and process. This is called a synergistic compatibility. Each step in the system moving the process forward until the end-result is achieved, a beautiful, high gloss finish.

If your goal is to create a beautiful show car finish on our car, then trust in Meguiar's to see you through to success. We've been helping professionals and enthusiasts around the world to showcase their talents for over 100 years!

Mike
Old 01-28-2007, 10:20 PM
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Ive always recommended polishing or cleaning paint prior to sealing.........Im afraid Im missing your point with all of this interesting facts about Maximum Mold Release Wax.........Im not into building yachts, or canoes for that matter.
My point is, and with or without Mike Phillips' blessings (And hes a man I respect for his abilities) surface prep is imperative for sealant durability and adhesion. Waxes are a completely different story.
If you like the looks and performance of #7, in conjunction with whatever sealant you use, then so be it.
To each their own Poh, enjoy.
On a sidenote, i have conducted my own non laboratory testing, with glazes and sealants and have come to my above conclusion through my own personal observations.

Last edited by exceldetail; 01-28-2007 at 10:23 PM.
Old 01-29-2007, 08:11 PM
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The point is that they leave all of the oil residue on the mold, they do not recommend removing it before the wax goes on.

"If Meguiar's though it would be better to wash a mold with dish soap, or wipe it down with a 50/50 mixture of water and Isopropyl Alcohol before applying a mold release wax so that it will properly bond, then we would recommend this and we would have started recommending it a long time ago. But removing any Meguiar's polishing oils from the surface of a mold is not the best way to insure our waxes adhere and thus we don't recommend removing them before applying our waxes in fact just the opposite, we recommend polishing the surface first, and then applying the wax."
Old 01-29-2007, 10:20 PM
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Not to throw fuel on the fire, but the mold release system is SUPPOSED to release the item being molded, thus the oils will help that particular process (like butter in a cake pan helps the cake out). I don't want anything helping my sealant (if I use one) off of my car, but instead want it to stay on for added durability.
Old 01-31-2007, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stogie1020
Not to throw fuel on the fire, but the mold release system is SUPPOSED to release the item being molded, thus the oils will help that particular process (like butter in a cake pan helps the cake out). I don't want anything helping my sealant (if I use one) off of my car, but instead want it to stay on for added durability.
That is precisely the point. you do not want the mold release wax to come off.. the oils help the wax stick to the mold so the part will release.
Old 01-31-2007, 06:28 PM
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Sorry buddy, that makes absolutely no sense. Oil helping something adhere... Unless by allowing a vacuum to be created and sealing around the edges. Hate to burst your bubble....

PS. I have READ lots of things that supposedly knowledgeable people have written that are not true. The Bumble Bee flight issue comes to mind.

BACK ON TOPIC:

Does the Turtle Wax Ice rinse away cleanly like the Megs did?
Old 01-31-2007, 07:15 PM
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I am done with trying to educate people who cannot read or comprehend information from reliable sources.
Old 01-31-2007, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
I am done with trying to educate people who cannot read or comprehend information from reliable sources.

Thank you.
Old 02-01-2007, 07:29 AM
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I may just have to consult my ol chemist budy for this thread..........He will offer a very unbiased opinion. Pho, all I can say is conduct your own little test bed and monitor your results......

Last edited by exceldetail; 02-01-2007 at 07:33 AM.
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