So confused!!
02-03-2006, 01:07 AM
#1
Cruisin'
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So confused!!
I think I read to much of this forum at once because now i am all confused!!
Just bought an 2006 WDC/Parchment TL w/Navi. It is beautiful as it is only 2 days old. I figure i should start protecting the paint right away since it would be easy but after reading so many threads, i am now truly confused.
I know I should wash the car with DAWN, then clay it. I am familiar with that. I guess the next step is Polish (synthetic polymer), then Seal, and then Wax (caranuba)?
Which products are polishes and which ones are waxes? It gets so confusing with Mothers, Meguiars, Zaino blah blah blah.
What I want is something that is relatively easy to do and that I can accomplish in a few hours. I don't have a garage to park my car so i can't do those steps where it requires leaving the polish on for 24 hours and so forth.
Can anyone give this newbie any suggestion for easy to find products to polish, seal, and then wax? I am confused between which products are polish and which are sealers. OTC products would be easiest for me since I can just go buy them at the local Pep Boys, but I'm not opposed to ordering better products online.
Just bought an 2006 WDC/Parchment TL w/Navi. It is beautiful as it is only 2 days old. I figure i should start protecting the paint right away since it would be easy but after reading so many threads, i am now truly confused.
I know I should wash the car with DAWN, then clay it. I am familiar with that. I guess the next step is Polish (synthetic polymer), then Seal, and then Wax (caranuba)?
Which products are polishes and which ones are waxes? It gets so confusing with Mothers, Meguiars, Zaino blah blah blah.
What I want is something that is relatively easy to do and that I can accomplish in a few hours. I don't have a garage to park my car so i can't do those steps where it requires leaving the polish on for 24 hours and so forth.
Can anyone give this newbie any suggestion for easy to find products to polish, seal, and then wax? I am confused between which products are polish and which are sealers. OTC products would be easiest for me since I can just go buy them at the local Pep Boys, but I'm not opposed to ordering better products online.
02-03-2006, 07:26 AM
#2
Cruisin'
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Originally Posted by johnvo
I think I read to much of this forum at once because now i am all confused!!
Just bought an 2006 WDC/Parchment TL w/Navi. It is beautiful as it is only 2 days old. I figure i should start protecting the paint right away since it would be easy but after reading so many threads, i am now truly confused.
I know I should wash the car with DAWN, then clay it. I am familiar with that. I guess the next step is Polish (synthetic polymer), then Seal, and then Wax (caranuba)?
Which products are polishes and which ones are waxes? It gets so confusing with Mothers, Meguiars, Zaino blah blah blah.
What I want is something that is relatively easy to do and that I can accomplish in a few hours. I don't have a garage to park my car so i can't do those steps where it requires leaving the polish on for 24 hours and so forth.
Can anyone give this newbie any suggestion for easy to find products to polish, seal, and then wax? I am confused between which products are polish and which are sealers. OTC products would be easiest for me since I can just go buy them at the local Pep Boys, but I'm not opposed to ordering better products online.
Just bought an 2006 WDC/Parchment TL w/Navi. It is beautiful as it is only 2 days old. I figure i should start protecting the paint right away since it would be easy but after reading so many threads, i am now truly confused.
I know I should wash the car with DAWN, then clay it. I am familiar with that. I guess the next step is Polish (synthetic polymer), then Seal, and then Wax (caranuba)?
Which products are polishes and which ones are waxes? It gets so confusing with Mothers, Meguiars, Zaino blah blah blah.
What I want is something that is relatively easy to do and that I can accomplish in a few hours. I don't have a garage to park my car so i can't do those steps where it requires leaving the polish on for 24 hours and so forth.
Can anyone give this newbie any suggestion for easy to find products to polish, seal, and then wax? I am confused between which products are polish and which are sealers. OTC products would be easiest for me since I can just go buy them at the local Pep Boys, but I'm not opposed to ordering better products online.
Try this website. www.bettercarcare.com I've learned alot from here and ordered sonus products. Works good. It should usually say what it is on the bottle. your car is new so you don't need to clay entire body....just wash your car and dry, then run your hands over...if you feel any tiny bumps...that's where you need to clay. Also I never used dish soap. You can clay with specific clay lube, or to save time just clay using car wash soap and water.
I usually do...
1. wash with car wash soap
2. clay areas with impurities
3. polish only in the area where surface scratch is visible
4. seal with klasse sealant
5. wax with p21 carnuba car wax
and it's better to wax when warm...not cold...not hot...also, polishing works best with buffing machine, but hands work too...just gotta use that muscle.
oh, if you have time, use sealant and wax your wheels too. it will be easier to clean later.
02-03-2006, 09:08 AM
#3
Driver/Detailer
Don't use Dawn. The reason it was recommended before was because it was in the Zaino instructions.
Use a proper car wash shampoo. Use clay if your paint is rough. If it isn't, then you can go to swirl removal if you have any swirls. If you have no swirls, go straight to your sealant. I use Meg's #21. You can use NXT too. There are many other brands of sealants, each with their own advantages/disadvantages/look/durability.
For polish/swirl removal, not that many OTC products are nice to use with the PC. I like poorboys. You can get non-OTC products from autogeek.net or autopia.
For the sealant, I used to use NXT and then switched to #21.
After you seal, there is not really a need for a wax unless you want the particular look of a carnauba wax. Go for a pure wax, not a cleaner wax as you want to preserve the previous layer of sealant. I use P21s (sometimes). You can get S100 from the Harley shop. It's the same as P21s, just cheaper.
My advice is seal as soon as possible, and wash once a week. That way you don't have to worry about any buildup of dirt that won't come off with a wash.
Use a proper car wash shampoo. Use clay if your paint is rough. If it isn't, then you can go to swirl removal if you have any swirls. If you have no swirls, go straight to your sealant. I use Meg's #21. You can use NXT too. There are many other brands of sealants, each with their own advantages/disadvantages/look/durability.
For polish/swirl removal, not that many OTC products are nice to use with the PC. I like poorboys. You can get non-OTC products from autogeek.net or autopia.
For the sealant, I used to use NXT and then switched to #21.
After you seal, there is not really a need for a wax unless you want the particular look of a carnauba wax. Go for a pure wax, not a cleaner wax as you want to preserve the previous layer of sealant. I use P21s (sometimes). You can get S100 from the Harley shop. It's the same as P21s, just cheaper.
My advice is seal as soon as possible, and wash once a week. That way you don't have to worry about any buildup of dirt that won't come off with a wash.
02-03-2006, 10:45 AM
#4
Cruisin'
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Ahh...ok. Since it is a brand new car, I will take your advice and wash, then clay any unsmooth areas, and then seal with Meguiar's#21 or NXT. Then I'll wax with the S100. By brother has that and a PC so I'll ask him to help me. Thanks guys!! That really helped clear things up now that i know I don't have to worry about polishing!!
02-03-2006, 11:01 AM
#5
For your new car, I would definetly (ASAP), wash, clay, polish and seal. There were several threads posted regarding this subject.
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/what-should-i-do-when-i-first-get-my-car-324259/
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/wash-wax-advice-323318/
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/when-can-i-polish-wax-321880/
As far as products are concerned, that will be a personal preference. IMO, some of the better products are available only online. You can visit some of the online sites and they will provide a description of what they are, be it polish, sealant or wax. For example, PAC and Autogeek. I forgot to mention one thing, I would suggest the use of a a pre-wax cleaner if you don't have any swirls prior to sealing.
So rather than repeating what others have said or will say, this post by TOGWT is the one to read. Great advice detailing the care and upkeep of a new vehicle:
I'm sure exceldetail and TOWGT will chime in ......
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/what-should-i-do-when-i-first-get-my-car-324259/
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/wash-wax-advice-323318/
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/when-can-i-polish-wax-321880/
As far as products are concerned, that will be a personal preference. IMO, some of the better products are available only online. You can visit some of the online sites and they will provide a description of what they are, be it polish, sealant or wax. For example, PAC and Autogeek. I forgot to mention one thing, I would suggest the use of a a pre-wax cleaner if you don't have any swirls prior to sealing.
So rather than repeating what others have said or will say, this post by TOGWT is the one to read. Great advice detailing the care and upkeep of a new vehicle:
New vehicle, Initial Care:
Most people believe that a new car needs little if any care for the first week or so, not true. Most new vehicles leave the factory, they sit in dirt parking lots, they are transported by trains, trucks, or ships, and then they are generally subjected to the removal of transit plastic protection wrap and usually harsh washing conditions once they arrive at the car dealership.
Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free
Acid rain, road salt, tree sap and airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. Brake dust or rail dust are very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a negative charge while the vehicles they land on are carrying a positive charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface.
1. RapGard (Plastic Transit Film):
Many manufacturers are using this white plastic covering in place of synthetic or wax based shipping coatings (Cosmoline) The plastic becomes brittle with age (90 to 180 days) and becomes difficult to remove as it "shreds" while being pulled off, additionally there is excess adhesive residue left on the surface.
•Spray or wipe Isopropyl Alcohol on to the Rap Guard or Plastic Film and the painted surfaces.
•Allow it to remain on the surface for 3 to 5 minutes. Saturate a soft clean towel with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and gently wipe away the RapGard / Plastic Transit Film pieces and their adhesive.
•Wash vehicle with a car wash concentrate diluted 1 oz. per gallon of water any remove any residue with detailers clay.
2. Cleaning Tyres:
•Rinse thoroughly with a fairly strong stream of clean water to remove any loose road dirt etc., from tyre’s and wheel wells.
•Clean tyres with a rubber cleaner (3M Tire & Wheel Cleaner -39036) or a citrus-based all purpose cleaner (APC) (P21S Total Auto Wash)
•Use a water-based polymer tyre dressing (Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss™)
•Apply an ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection to the tyres.
3. Detailers Clay:
•Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
•Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into two or three fingers
•Spray a 2-foot by 2-foot surface with a lubricating solution (WooliteTM or Dreft™ / Water 5:1), ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
•Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
•Use long strokes without lifting the clay from the surface
•Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
•If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out
4. Vinyl and hard plastic surfaces:
•Apply any dressings very sparingly as these surfaces don’t allow the dressings to penetrate very well
•Use a suitable matte type dressing (Iz Cockpit Premium) to ensure that there is no reflection on the windshield, reducing visibility.
•Apply a UVR protection (303 Space Protectant) especially to the dash and any other surface that is subjected to sunlight on a regular basis.
5. Surface Protection:
Regularly applied wax and/or a polymer sealant will both protect the paint surface from surface contamination that collects on a painted finish which includes, Industrial fallout (IFO), Rail Dust, Acid Rain, Hard Water Spots, Tar, Bird Droppings, Waxes/Silicones, Oxidation, Adhesive Residue, Road Grime Rust Stains.
6. Car Cover:
The greatest threats to the preservation of your vehicle are; Airborne Contaminants, Industrial Fallout (this includes Acid Rain) Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) Oxidation, Bird Excrement and Brake Dust, wind blown debris and pollution.
Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultra-violet radiation (UVR) they are water resistant and provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and wind blown debris.
JonM
Most people believe that a new car needs little if any care for the first week or so, not true. Most new vehicles leave the factory, they sit in dirt parking lots, they are transported by trains, trucks, or ships, and then they are generally subjected to the removal of transit plastic protection wrap and usually harsh washing conditions once they arrive at the car dealership.
Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free
Acid rain, road salt, tree sap and airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. Brake dust or rail dust are very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a negative charge while the vehicles they land on are carrying a positive charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface.
1. RapGard (Plastic Transit Film):
Many manufacturers are using this white plastic covering in place of synthetic or wax based shipping coatings (Cosmoline) The plastic becomes brittle with age (90 to 180 days) and becomes difficult to remove as it "shreds" while being pulled off, additionally there is excess adhesive residue left on the surface.
•Spray or wipe Isopropyl Alcohol on to the Rap Guard or Plastic Film and the painted surfaces.
•Allow it to remain on the surface for 3 to 5 minutes. Saturate a soft clean towel with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and gently wipe away the RapGard / Plastic Transit Film pieces and their adhesive.
•Wash vehicle with a car wash concentrate diluted 1 oz. per gallon of water any remove any residue with detailers clay.
2. Cleaning Tyres:
•Rinse thoroughly with a fairly strong stream of clean water to remove any loose road dirt etc., from tyre’s and wheel wells.
•Clean tyres with a rubber cleaner (3M Tire & Wheel Cleaner -39036) or a citrus-based all purpose cleaner (APC) (P21S Total Auto Wash)
•Use a water-based polymer tyre dressing (Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss™)
•Apply an ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection to the tyres.
3. Detailers Clay:
•Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
•Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into two or three fingers
•Spray a 2-foot by 2-foot surface with a lubricating solution (WooliteTM or Dreft™ / Water 5:1), ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
•Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
•Use long strokes without lifting the clay from the surface
•Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
•If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out
4. Vinyl and hard plastic surfaces:
•Apply any dressings very sparingly as these surfaces don’t allow the dressings to penetrate very well
•Use a suitable matte type dressing (Iz Cockpit Premium) to ensure that there is no reflection on the windshield, reducing visibility.
•Apply a UVR protection (303 Space Protectant) especially to the dash and any other surface that is subjected to sunlight on a regular basis.
5. Surface Protection:
Regularly applied wax and/or a polymer sealant will both protect the paint surface from surface contamination that collects on a painted finish which includes, Industrial fallout (IFO), Rail Dust, Acid Rain, Hard Water Spots, Tar, Bird Droppings, Waxes/Silicones, Oxidation, Adhesive Residue, Road Grime Rust Stains.
6. Car Cover:
The greatest threats to the preservation of your vehicle are; Airborne Contaminants, Industrial Fallout (this includes Acid Rain) Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) Oxidation, Bird Excrement and Brake Dust, wind blown debris and pollution.
Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultra-violet radiation (UVR) they are water resistant and provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and wind blown debris.
JonM
Last edited by Hawhyen51; 02-03-2006 at 11:06 AM.
02-03-2006, 04:14 PM
#7
Former Sponsor
If your relatively swirl free and just need some surface brightening, I'd reccommend Poorboys SSR 2.0 or 1.0 if its completely swirl free. i would however reccommend a clay treatment. Its not difficult and results are astounding. It also better prepares the surface for polishing and waxing/sealing. Waxes or sealants, well, everyone can reccommend there own preferance, but its like deodorant, what works best for me or others may not for you....(Excuse my point of reference).
Also make sure you have a decent wash soap and washmit, as well as drying towel. Do some searching on here, great group of enthusiasts more then willing to assist you.
Also make sure you have a decent wash soap and washmit, as well as drying towel. Do some searching on here, great group of enthusiasts more then willing to assist you.
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02-03-2006, 05:30 PM
#8
Doctor Sarcasm
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
If your relatively swirl free and just need some surface brightening, I'd reccommend Poorboys SSR 2.0 or 1.0 if its completely swirl free. i would however reccommend a clay treatment. Its not difficult and results are astounding. It also better prepares the surface for polishing and waxing/sealing. Waxes or sealants, well, everyone can reccommend there own preferance, but its like deodorant, what works best for me or others may not for you....(Excuse my point of reference).
Also make sure you have a decent wash soap and washmit, as well as drying towel. Do some searching on here, great group of enthusiasts more then willing to assist you.
Also make sure you have a decent wash soap and washmit, as well as drying towel. Do some searching on here, great group of enthusiasts more then willing to assist you.
02-03-2006, 05:55 PM
#9
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by xtin
I would love to see pics of your car. Any links?
Actually, this is mine.....
So, theres a few ..........
Fawk, not you again...
02-20-2006, 07:35 PM
#14
5th Gear
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Hey! New to sight. Not hardcore car junky. Unfortunately have no time with husband, kids, work, and school. But anyways, Just bought a 2002 TL in Anthracite with black interior. Saw a recommendation on this site for spoilers from Trimking1 on ebay and ordered. Hubby attached a few days ago and it looks really sharp. Will be getting windows tinted tomorrow. Need to know...if I take my care to get detailed, washed, waxed, etc. What do I need to insist get done. I live in sort of a small town and although we have a few places that do detailing, I've heard they tend to do as little as they can get away with. Wish I had time to do all that myself, but I don't. Car was not as clean as we would have expected when we picked up (bought car on e-bay as well), but can't complain, got a good deal. Just want to get it looking sharp like some of the pics I've seen on this site. Thanks, Jessica
02-20-2006, 08:04 PM
#15
Jessica, without knowing the condition of the car and given the age of the car, I would say a complete exterior detail to include the following: wash, clay, polish, and seal (painted surfaces). Wash wheels and tires, dress tires. Interior: Vaccum, clean and condtion leather (seats), clean and apply protectant to vinyl and plastic areas. The cost will very with detailers as well as locations. You may want to shoot a PM to exceldetail, he should be able to give you more info. He usually checks the site regularly.
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