simple problem with wax
Most folks prefer applying wax by hand. Just remember, a little goes a long way. Here's a good tutorial courtesy of Autopia.
APPLYING WAXES AND SEALANTS
Once you've selected a wax, here are some tips to make waxing easier:
*Work in a shaded area out of direct sunlight.
*Use a foam applicator pad to apply your wax. When the applicator becomes caked with wax, switch to a fresh applicator.
*Work on one area at a time covering 2 to 4 square feet. Some products may allow you to coat the entire car before buffing off, but most do not.
*Follow the wax manufacturer's instructions on whether or not to allow the wax to dry (haze) before buffing.
*Use a small amount of wax at a time, and rub it in well. If you use too much wax, you're wasting the product and your time.
*If the wax residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean wipe towel.
*Apply your wax in a back-and-forth motion, not in circles. If you are creating swirls, you need to replace your applicator or towels.
*After waxing, your car's paint should feel slick and smooth, and be free of streaks and smudges.
What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that don't want to buff out perfectly? There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun for 10 to 15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, and then take it back inside the garage. Next, use your favorite detail spray a fresh buffing towel to wipe down the affected areas. The warmth of the sun softens the wax, allowing it to buff out to a clear, high gloss. If you're using an enthusiast sealant system, use the quick detailer made for the system.

If your wax streaks, use a detailing spray and a clean buffing towel. This will typically fix the problem.

After waxing, use horsehair detailing brushes to remove polish and wax residue from all cracks and crevices.
After waxing, your final paint finish should be smooth, glossy and wet looking.
Once you've selected a wax, here are some tips to make waxing easier:
*Work in a shaded area out of direct sunlight.
*Use a foam applicator pad to apply your wax. When the applicator becomes caked with wax, switch to a fresh applicator.
*Work on one area at a time covering 2 to 4 square feet. Some products may allow you to coat the entire car before buffing off, but most do not.
*Follow the wax manufacturer's instructions on whether or not to allow the wax to dry (haze) before buffing.
*Use a small amount of wax at a time, and rub it in well. If you use too much wax, you're wasting the product and your time.
*If the wax residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean wipe towel.
*Apply your wax in a back-and-forth motion, not in circles. If you are creating swirls, you need to replace your applicator or towels.
*After waxing, your car's paint should feel slick and smooth, and be free of streaks and smudges.
What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that don't want to buff out perfectly? There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun for 10 to 15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, and then take it back inside the garage. Next, use your favorite detail spray a fresh buffing towel to wipe down the affected areas. The warmth of the sun softens the wax, allowing it to buff out to a clear, high gloss. If you're using an enthusiast sealant system, use the quick detailer made for the system.

If your wax streaks, use a detailing spray and a clean buffing towel. This will typically fix the problem.

After waxing, use horsehair detailing brushes to remove polish and wax residue from all cracks and crevices.
After waxing, your final paint finish should be smooth, glossy and wet looking.
Hard to beat that tutorial. I've probably read it a hundred times. 
I've only applied P21S by hand, so I'd say the answer is a definite yes. Foam applicator pad, very light coat, MF towel to remove. It's an outstanding wax.

I've only applied P21S by hand, so I'd say the answer is a definite yes. Foam applicator pad, very light coat, MF towel to remove. It's an outstanding wax.
Vroom, I didn't get a chance to welcome you to the forum. Glad to have you on board and looking forward to some refreshing and possibly different inputs. Just reading a few of your posts, it'll be great having other thoughts concerning detailing.
Originally Posted by VroomVroom
Hard to beat that tutorial. I've probably read it a hundred times. 
I've only applied P21S by hand, so I'd say the answer is a definite yes. Foam applicator pad, very light coat, MF towel to remove. It's an outstanding wax.

I've only applied P21S by hand, so I'd say the answer is a definite yes. Foam applicator pad, very light coat, MF towel to remove. It's an outstanding wax.
Thanks for the welcome!
Lots of smart folks here - I'm really enjoying the site.
I've heard that about S100, but have no experience to confirm it. What I have experienced - and a few other detailing cronies have noted as well - is that Poorboys Natty's (Blue) is just as effective as P21S, and is certainly half the cost. It's become my go-to wax.
I've heard that about S100, but have no experience to confirm it. What I have experienced - and a few other detailing cronies have noted as well - is that Poorboys Natty's (Blue) is just as effective as P21S, and is certainly half the cost. It's become my go-to wax.
Originally Posted by VroomVroom
Thanks for the welcome!
Lots of smart folks here - I'm really enjoying the site.
I've heard that about S100, but have no experience to confirm it. What I have experienced - and a few other detailing cronies have noted as well - is that Poorboys Natty's (Blue) is just as effective as P21S, and is certainly half the cost. It's become my go-to wax.
I've heard that about S100, but have no experience to confirm it. What I have experienced - and a few other detailing cronies have noted as well - is that Poorboys Natty's (Blue) is just as effective as P21S, and is certainly half the cost. It's become my go-to wax.
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Wow - my only guess is that you put it on a little too thick. I've applied it to four different vehicles now - multiple coats on one of them - and haven't had any problems. No problem with P21S either - I couldn't say if one goes on/comes off more easily than the other.
Interesting comments on slickness in that thread too. I've honestly not found any wax that's as slick as a sealant. Just two different animals. That said, I've layered Natty's over a sealant a few times now, and it didn't seem to effect the slickness. I can only guess that speaks to what was done to the paint prior to the topcoats.
Interesting comments on slickness in that thread too. I've honestly not found any wax that's as slick as a sealant. Just two different animals. That said, I've layered Natty's over a sealant a few times now, and it didn't seem to effect the slickness. I can only guess that speaks to what was done to the paint prior to the topcoats.
Originally Posted by aaronng
I heard S100 is identical to P21s. If applying pure carnaubas, the ONLY way I'd do it is by hand. 

But as far as polishes and sealants go, PB all theway. Shoot, i dont remember the last time I opened a jar or bottle of Nuba......ok ok, Nattys just for the smell!!
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mugen_kid
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Nov 13, 2015 10:38 PM



