Sheeting, Pooling Question Again

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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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Sheeting, Pooling Question Again

I've read this forum again about sheeting and pooling. Some people say they both good depends on who answers.

These pictures are of my car after rain for the past 3 days. Comments are welcomed on the status of the car.

Thanks






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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 06:07 PM
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IMO, the car looks great. What kind of wax?
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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If I was washing that car I'd say that the wax is still definitely present on the surface, if that's what you're asking.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JackieO
If I was washing that car I'd say that the wax is still definitely present on the surface, if that's what you're asking.
Ok, that's what I was wondering, some people say that it should be sheeting, not sitting in puddles. But sheeting would mean no protection?


Originally Posted by jwclements1
IMO, the car looks great. What kind of wax?
I'm actually using something I got from QVC, it's just a spay wax called Final Detail with Zonyl (which is made buy DuPont), http://www.finaldetail.com/.

I've had the car since Feburary, it's the only thing I've used so far. I did have the dealer paint protect it.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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Sheeting, beads, puddles... it all depends on the amount of water on the car and what the car is doing. For example, I generally leave Zaino Z2 on my car for durabilty; when I am driving really fast Zaino produces very tiny beads, it's cool. However, when the car is still in the rain the beads are uniform, but slightly larger (size of a dime), but at saturation point, the point where there is too much water on the car and some of it needs to go somewhere... it sheets.

It's hard to judge protection based on water beading honestly, un-treated paint will bead water just by virtue of surface tension; however in the case of your car it's pretty obvious to me that the sheeting taking place is due to a proetectant rather that water volume because on the hood there are no large beads/puddles; the water sheeted off before it reached saturation. I would say that whatever wax you're using produces large beads or is at the end of its lifespan, but I'd bet a finger that it is still on the surface.

When was the last time you applied the spray wax?
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JackieO

When was the last time you applied the spray wax?
It has been a couple of weeks, weather should be clearing up today or tomorrow. I'm getting ready to do an all out cleaning (claying and better wax) in a couple of weeks.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 10:01 AM
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Durability: [: able to exist for a long time without significant deterioration]

Nearly all wax and sealant products exhibit water beading or sheeting initially (in fact so does a clean paint surface without an applied protection) this is due solely to surface tension, once the protection breaks down (abrasion from water, road dirt/grime and other airborne pollutants) it will cause a reduction in the surface tension and the beading will revert to its former level

If your goal is maximum protection, don't use water beading/sheeting as an indicator; while its true that it is a visual indicator that a wax / sealant previously applied is still present it does not guarantee that it’s actually providing protection.

a) Surface tension- water has a property called surface tension; it’s caused by the attraction between the molecules of the liquid, due to various intermolecular forces. In the bulk of the liquid each molecule is pulled equally in all directions by neighbouring liquid molecules, resulting in a net force of zero. This tension causes water to bead up on surfaces, you can see surface tension at work by placing a drop of water onto a clean surface that has no wax / sealant, and the water drop (bead) will hold its shape and will not spread.

b)Water beading- [: convex beads that have a small, tight symmetrical shape due to cohesion] although you cannot equate a products beading ability to protection and durability, if an applied product continues to `bead' water, one wash after another, then that would prove that whatever it is that is causing high surface tension is not washing off. Surface tension can be compromised mechanically by dirt breaching the sphere and causing it to loose its shape; this does not necessarily mean that the surface protection has diminished.

c) Indications that the products durability may be diminishing- when the water beads become noticeably larger in diameter with a flat, concave or an irregular shape usually indicate that the surface tension of the wax or sealant is diminishing. Or when dust, dirt or bug residue becomes more difficult to wipe off with a quick detailing spray are indications that it may be time to renew the protection

d) Slickness- slide a micro fibre towel across a horizontal surface to see how much resistance there is, if there has been a significant reduction from what you experienced previously the durability is probably diminishing

e) Sheeting or water beading- there are some synthetics that are formulated with active surface agents or surfactants that reduce surface tension and cause water to ‘sheet’ as opposed to ‘beading’.

But if a product beads on initial application and after a period of time starts to sheet water (and visa versa) it is normally indicative that the wax/sealant protection has diminished.

f) Water beading is indicative but not conclusive proof of protection
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
Durability: [: able to exist for a long time without significant deterioration]

Nearly all wax and sealant products exhibit water beading or sheeting initially (in fact so does a clean paint surface without an applied protection) this is due solely to surface tension, once the protection breaks down (abrasion from water, road dirt/grime and other airborne pollutants) it will cause a reduction in the surface tension and the beading will revert to its former level

If your goal is maximum protection, don't use water beading/sheeting as an indicator; while its true that it is a visual indicator that a wax / sealant previously applied is still present it does not guarantee that it’s actually providing protection.
Yes I was able to find this when searching before I posted. Great information but confusing. Maybe if someone taught a class it might become clearer.

After I wash the paint isn't tacky, a little smooth. When I apply the spray wax, smooth as glass. I know I need more than just a spray wax. The thing that gets me is that a lot of people say that the water should sheet off and not stay in beads. I read or heard that beading allows for the sun to magnify and hurt the paint???

Looking at the pictures, what do you think? Thanks

Last edited by jupitersolo; Sep 6, 2006 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jupitersolo
Yes I was able to find this when searching before I posted. Great information but confusing. Maybe if someone taught a class it might become clearer.

After I wash the paint isn't tacky, a little smooth. When I apply the spray wax, smooth as glass. I know I need more than just a spray wax. The thing that gets me is that a lot of people say that the water should sheet off and not stay in beads. I read or heard that beading allows for the sun to magnify and hurt the paint???

Looking at the pictures, what do you think? Thanks
Writing detailing books, car care application instructions and contributing to detailing forums would leave very little time to run detailing classes. "The Water Beading/ Sheeting Abilities of Polymers/Waxes" isn't a subject with suficient scope to it for an instruction class.

Best thing I could suggest is to use the "Search" function on forum's such as Autopia et al and get other opinions
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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Ive always relied on the way the surface just "felt". If its not slick, at a minimum, Ill add some Protect All or Aqua Wax......
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