Scraped my car..can polishing fix it?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Scraped my car..can polishing fix it?
Long story short, the RL was scraped when trying to get into the garage..lame huh? I know..
Anyway...below are pics of the damage. I tried hand polishing the bruised up parts, and could only get so far. The door seems to just have some of the paint from the garage door frame stuck on it, that I can't get off. The rear quarter panel right above the wheels doesn't seem to be the paint from the garage door frame, seems like the paint itself was damaged.
And there's some black paint that was left on the door frame..just wondering, does that mean on those areas of the RL that got scraped, that there's no clear coat on it anymore??
Wondering what is the best fix for this? Polishing? I'm guessing a very aggressive polish will be used..
Anyway...below are pics of the damage. I tried hand polishing the bruised up parts, and could only get so far. The door seems to just have some of the paint from the garage door frame stuck on it, that I can't get off. The rear quarter panel right above the wheels doesn't seem to be the paint from the garage door frame, seems like the paint itself was damaged.
And there's some black paint that was left on the door frame..just wondering, does that mean on those areas of the RL that got scraped, that there's no clear coat on it anymore??
Wondering what is the best fix for this? Polishing? I'm guessing a very aggressive polish will be used..
#4
Evil Mazda Driver
Polishing only removes a few microns of paint and your average car has roughly 130 microns of paint depth. Even using a heavy polish or compound isn't going to make your paint super thin. If that was the case, you would only be able to perfect your paint once and detailers would be out of business.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
I see. Thanks for the info. I'm just afraid that that scrape took off like..I don't know, the majority of the depth, like 100-ish microns?
And plus, those scrapes are near edges..which I've read takes more skill to remove because of the risk of burning through paint...hopefully the body shop knows what it is doing...What a way to end Thanksgiving....:[
And plus, those scrapes are near edges..which I've read takes more skill to remove because of the risk of burning through paint...hopefully the body shop knows what it is doing...What a way to end Thanksgiving....:[
#7
2012 SH-AWD / Advanced
Most of what I can see from the photos are paint transfer issues, which you should be able to remove without too much drama. The big question is right at the edge of the wheel well as you pointed out.
What kind of products do you currently have in your arsenal? If you don't have any compounds, you might want to start with something like Meguiars ScratchX by hand to see how much you can remove.
If that doesn't remove most of the problem, then you'll want to find somebody that can fix up those spots with a buffer. Even if you can only safely fix it to 90% or so, it will still look much better than it does now...just consider them "battle scars"...and remember, chics dig scars!
What kind of products do you currently have in your arsenal? If you don't have any compounds, you might want to start with something like Meguiars ScratchX by hand to see how much you can remove.
If that doesn't remove most of the problem, then you'll want to find somebody that can fix up those spots with a buffer. Even if you can only safely fix it to 90% or so, it will still look much better than it does now...just consider them "battle scars"...and remember, chics dig scars!
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#8
Pro
Thread Starter
I used Meguiars Deep System Crystal Polish to polish most of the paint transfer scuff marks off (it was much worse before), and I can only get to where the pictures are showing now.
It seems to me that there isn't really any indication of paint loss, as far as I can tell because those areas are raised, so it is probably a paint transfer issue. But the fact that the door molding seems to also have the NBP paint on (or is it dirt from the car?) it kind of makes me wonder. As for the wheel arch area, it doesn't seem to be raised or have any indentations, it is pretty much flush with the parts that aren't damaged.
I thinking of just taking it to someone with a buffer to help me fix it...hopefully it won't be a problem.
It seems to me that there isn't really any indication of paint loss, as far as I can tell because those areas are raised, so it is probably a paint transfer issue. But the fact that the door molding seems to also have the NBP paint on (or is it dirt from the car?) it kind of makes me wonder. As for the wheel arch area, it doesn't seem to be raised or have any indentations, it is pretty much flush with the parts that aren't damaged.
I thinking of just taking it to someone with a buffer to help me fix it...hopefully it won't be a problem.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
So after some(alot actually) elbow grease, and Meguiar's ScratchX(thanks for the recommendation Todd!), I managed to get 99% of the white paint transfer off. But there's some areas where the NBP paint is a bit bumpy due to the scrape. Now, I don't know if that's some clear residue left from the white paint, or the NBP paint itself is damaged. But lets just say the NBP paint itself got damaged, would wetsanding be needed? Or is polishing good enough?
But it is MUCH better now. A passerby cannot tell anything happened there. I'm going to polish the whole car sometime in the future, and hopefully that'll restore it back to 100%.
In the mean time, I need to fix the dents caused by this...6 dings in total :/, and get that black part of the molding that was damaged repainted.
But it is MUCH better now. A passerby cannot tell anything happened there. I'm going to polish the whole car sometime in the future, and hopefully that'll restore it back to 100%.
In the mean time, I need to fix the dents caused by this...6 dings in total :/, and get that black part of the molding that was damaged repainted.
#10
NBP is a pain...
iTrader: (1)
I used Meguiars Deep System Crystal Polish to polish most of the paint transfer scuff marks off (it was much worse before), and I can only get to where the pictures are showing now.
It seems to me that there isn't really any indication of paint loss, as far as I can tell because those areas are raised, so it is probably a paint transfer issue. But the fact that the door molding seems to also have the NBP paint on (or is it dirt from the car?) it kind of makes me wonder. As for the wheel arch area, it doesn't seem to be raised or have any indentations, it is pretty much flush with the parts that aren't damaged.
I thinking of just taking it to someone with a buffer to help me fix it...hopefully it won't be a problem.
It seems to me that there isn't really any indication of paint loss, as far as I can tell because those areas are raised, so it is probably a paint transfer issue. But the fact that the door molding seems to also have the NBP paint on (or is it dirt from the car?) it kind of makes me wonder. As for the wheel arch area, it doesn't seem to be raised or have any indentations, it is pretty much flush with the parts that aren't damaged.
I thinking of just taking it to someone with a buffer to help me fix it...hopefully it won't be a problem.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
Finished result, all was used as a microfiber towel and Meg's ScratchX:
and the dents...:
One thing that bothers me is the microscarring from ScratchX, it is pretty noticeable under light:
any idea how many microns of clear coat I lost?
My poor baby..
and the dents...:
One thing that bothers me is the microscarring from ScratchX, it is pretty noticeable under light:
any idea how many microns of clear coat I lost?
My poor baby..
#14
Suzuka Master
You proly took of near nothing of the clear with ScratchX by hand. That Micromarring can be easily removed with a PC and a white pads and fine polish.
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