Is this the right kit?

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Old 06-15-2007, 09:15 PM
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Question Is this the right kit?

So I finally took some time to make myself a detailing kit, or atleast a kit that I can clean my car with, and keep it clean for a while.

Anyways, here's what I came up with:

Waffle Weave Drying Towel - $10.99
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...9280&pd=133820


Medium Sheepskin Washmit - $6.29
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...5255&pd=138546


(Safe on Chrome Rims??)Sheepskin Washmit for Wheels - $3.49
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...5255&pd=292174


Quixx Scratch Repair System - $19.49
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...5600&pd=294796


(Good for the Leather Seats??)303 Protectant (Inside Car) - $14.89
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...4761&pd=284051


Four Star Ultimate Tire Protectant Gel - $12.89
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...4041&pd=130902


(Safe on Chrome Rims??)Four Star Ultimate Wheel Cleaner Gel - $9.89
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...4041&pd=130899


Mothers Reflections Advanced Car Wax - $14.95
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...4040&pd=277286

I already have 3 medium sized Micro Fiber Towels, and I also have Armorall Car Wash Concentrate, but I just wanted to know if the above products are all I need to wash, clean interior, clean chrome rims, shine tires, and wax car.

I'd really like it if you guys could give some comments on these products, Thanks
Old 06-15-2007, 11:48 PM
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I'll let those who have used them speak!
Old 06-16-2007, 02:34 AM
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Let's see - 303 is a protectant and not a cleaner/conditioner so you would still need a product to clean and condition leather. Patrick has several to choose from; FS, DG and PB. As much as I like Mothers (Reflections) and given the choices available, I probably would have picked DG 105 or 111 (budget minded). Since you already included some FS products, FS UPP would have been my selection or perhaps even Optimum OptiSeal. Can't comment on the Quixx System (haven't tried it) but the rest will enable you to maintain and protect your vehicle. Another suggestion would be to get a claybar to remove any bonded contaminants (brake dust, rail dust, IFO) from the paints surface. You'll notice the difference once you use it. You might also consider some extra MF towels (you'll need more than 3); some plush ones for product removal and some for general purpose uses (from Target, Wal Mart, Costco, Sams).
Old 06-16-2007, 10:55 AM
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I'm a little confused with a few things and I'd like to break it down for you guys so you could tell me if I'm right or not.

First off, whats a polish and a wax? When Do I use them?

Also, I'm gonna list the order of how I understand the car needs to be washed, and you please let me know if I'm right.

First, you need to spray the car down with water to get rid of all the loose dirt. Then you use your car wash concentrate, and start washing one section at a time, rinsing that section once your done.

Once you wash the whole car, you dry it with a waffle weave towel (or whatever). Once the car is completly dry, you start applying the wax, which in my case is the Mothers Reflections Advanced Car Wax.

Then you go to work on the rims. You use the Sheepskin Washmit for Wheels and apply some Four Star Ultimate Wheel Cleaner Gel, and you clean the wheels. Once that is done, you apply some Four Star Ultimate Tire Protectant Gel to the tires.

Then, you start work on the inside. You clean the dash with somekind of cleaner, and then you use the 303 Protectant to finsih it off. Then you clean the leather seats with somekind of cleaner, and use 303 Protectant to finish that off.

Now, could you guys please let me know if thats the correct order of things?

Also, could you guys recommend a good cleaner for the dash and leather?

And another thing, when you polish or wax the car, are you supposed to wipe it off after applying it?

And one last thing, if I get a few products from Meguiars to replace some of the ones I have in my list, would that be better?

I really appreciate all your help guys, thanks
Old 06-16-2007, 03:49 PM
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ok.. I will take a crack at this.....
1. if you are going to use a sheepskin mitt to do your tires and rims, have another mitt for doing the car and make sure that you never use the tire and rim mitt on the paint. Break dust is extremly abrasive and will scratch the hell out of your paint and leave contaminates that you dont want. I recommend that instead of using a good brush that has soft brisles. I use a brush that I got at AutoZone or someplace like that. I like Four Star tire and rim cleaner, spray it on, let it sit for 30 seconds or so, then dampen the brush a little bit with water and scrub the tire and rim, then rinse off.
2. Wash the car, 2 bucket method is recommended, using a sheepskin wash mitt. Dip the mitt in one bucket that contains your soapy water with lots of bubbles, was the car. Then dip the mitt in the 2nd bucket that has clean water, this step it to rinse out any of that grime that you just took off the car, you don't want to get it back on the car or allow it to scratch up your paint.
3. Dry the car.
4. Clay bar the car, there are several threads on here about the proper claying proceedure. Claying is an important step that should be done a couple of times a year. Not needed every time that you wash it, but only when you are wanting to do a complete job. Claying will remove contaminates such as breakdust and things that just a washing will not remove.
5. Polish - Polish is different from wax/sealants in that it has no protective capabilities. Polish contains light abrasives and is used to remove/reduce swirl marks, microscratches, oxidation and can remove some minor scratches. If you can catch a fingernail in a scratch, it is probably too deep to remove with polish. To remove these, a light wetsand maybe needed using 1500-3000 wetsand paper. Then polishing will remove clear up the wetsand marks. Polishing is a VERY important step for the overall appearance of the vehicle. This step is where you will create the clarity and depth. There are products out there that will hide scratches and swirl marks without removing them, these products contain fillers that will deminish or reduce your scratches, microscratches and swirlmarks, but as the fillers are washed away over time, the marks will return. A good polishing will cost more in time initially, but you will be more satisfied with the overall results than you probably would be with the filler products. Scratch X is an example of a filler type product. Polishing levels, fillers fill. Polishing is best accomplished with the use of a Port Cable random orbital or a Utimate Detailing machine. I polish one panel at a time, wipe down to remove product and then move on to the next panel. You may want to tape off the spots that you dont want to get polish on such as the trims and such before starting the polishing process. The use of a PC and pad selection is a whole other topic. Product recommendations, Poor Boys SSR line and though I have not tried it, based on Excels recommendations, Four Star body shop line.

5. Wax / Seal - These are the products that provide the protection. Waxes contain natural carnuba waxes. Sealants are made with synthenic compounds like polymeres. Sealants have a better longivity. Waxes can be applied over the top of sealants, but sealants can NOT be applied over waxes. Think of it like this, wax is wax, when it gets hot, it melts and breaks down. If the sealant was on top of the wax, when the wax broke down, your sealant would go away with the wax. There is NO need to seal AND wax, although some people like the added depth that like Nattys will give to a dark colored paint when it is applied over the top of a good sealant like Four Star UPP.
6. Use 303 on the plastics and rubber seals.
7. Use a leather conditioner on leather seats. (Leather cleaners when you need to clean the leather.)

A 10:1 mix of water and Woolite is good for general cleaning, very good for cleaning your floor mats. Wet the floor mat, spray on the mixture, scrub with a stiff brisle brush and then rinse. You can either hang the mats up to dry or use a wet dry vac to suck most of the water and remaining dirt out, then hang to finish drying.

I also have a set of detailing brushes that I use. I got three of them in a set that I bought at Autozone, they are made by BlackMagic, good for cleaning up nooks and crannies where polish has gotten into and you can't get it off with the MF towels, and off the rubber seals and such. I recently added a couple of other brushes to my collection. One is a big fluffy brush that is normally used by woman for applying blush and the other is a smaller one that is used for eye shadow. These are great for cleaning like your dash vents and that sort of thing.

Well, I need to get going, hope that this helps answer some of your questions....

It has taken me a while to write this, so I apologize if I have repeated something someone else has said.
Old 06-16-2007, 04:46 PM
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Thanks alot hardrock32tls for all your info, i really appreciate it.

So I guess I just need to buy a few more things, like a Polish, and a clay bar.
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