Question for silver based cars
10-02-2005, 11:44 AM
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Question for silver based cars
Hey everyone,
This section is a real help and I can't wait to work on the car. Comments I've seen about certain polishes/waxes had people sayin that it looks great on dark colored cars. Well, what good brands have a real strong apperance on silver paint?
Also, when my aunt went to the christmas tree shop the other day she bought me microfiber towels cause I asked of them. Does it matter if they're generic brand or what?
thanx
This section is a real help and I can't wait to work on the car. Comments I've seen about certain polishes/waxes had people sayin that it looks great on dark colored cars. Well, what good brands have a real strong apperance on silver paint?
Also, when my aunt went to the christmas tree shop the other day she bought me microfiber towels cause I asked of them. Does it matter if they're generic brand or what?
thanx
10-02-2005, 12:50 PM
#2
teh Senior Instigator
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Personally, silver is hard to make look bad, I always put a carnuba on my wifes silver accord, p21s looks HOT!
as far as MF towels go, generics aren't the best, but they are most likely better then what you have been using. I get all my MF towels from www.exceldetail.com
as far as MF towels go, generics aren't the best, but they are most likely better then what you have been using. I get all my MF towels from www.exceldetail.com
10-02-2005, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CLpower
Personally, silver is hard to make look bad, I always put a carnuba on my wifes silver accord, p21s looks HOT!
as far as MF towels go, generics aren't the best, but they are most likely better then what you have been using. I get all my MF towels from www.exceldetail.com
as far as MF towels go, generics aren't the best, but they are most likely better then what you have been using. I get all my MF towels from www.exceldetail.com
10-02-2005, 08:41 PM
#6
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Scott pumps out some nice work using P21s...If he says its nice for silver, take his word for it...Is it all you should use? Polymers work very well also....the right one that is, some are short lived, some are deeper then others, just like Nubas, they have their own characteristics.....
As for Megs #7, what are you hoping to gain using #7 ? 7 is a "different" product then most are use to....
As for Megs #7, what are you hoping to gain using #7 ? 7 is a "different" product then most are use to....
10-02-2005, 08:53 PM
#7
The Old Grey Whistle Test
My 'go to' on silver /white paint finishes are Klasse or Zaino (but both have a steep learning curve to get perfect results)
I would recommend Optimum Polish (www.topoftheline.com) as it stays workable (liquid) for longer. All of their products are ideal for the inexperienced or neophyte user as they remain clear enabling you to see wither the imperfections have been removed and their waxes and quick detailers (QD)are very user friendly.
JonM
I would recommend Optimum Polish (www.topoftheline.com) as it stays workable (liquid) for longer. All of their products are ideal for the inexperienced or neophyte user as they remain clear enabling you to see wither the imperfections have been removed and their waxes and quick detailers (QD)are very user friendly.
JonM
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10-02-2005, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
My 'go to' on silver /white paint finishes are Klasse or Zaino (but both have a steep learning curve to get perfect results)
6 years old...88K+ miles
10-02-2005, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
Scott pumps out some nice work using P21s...If he says its nice for silver, take his word for it...Is it all you should use? Polymers work very well also....the right one that is, some are short lived, some are deeper then others, just like Nubas, they have their own characteristics.....
As for Megs #7, what are you hoping to gain using #7 ? 7 is a "different" product then most are use to....
As for Megs #7, what are you hoping to gain using #7 ? 7 is a "different" product then most are use to....
I'll take the advice for Zaino but should that mean that I should return the #7?
And if so, which Zainos would I look at? Someone told me that z-2 is great.
thanx for you help guys too
10-02-2005, 10:15 PM
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Personaly, I've been using Klasse AIO and S100 to top it. I think its a great combo for silver cars. I used to be a Zaino user, but I think Klasse lasts just as long as Zaino and the shine is a bit "deeper". AIO wont remove swirls, but it has cleaners in it to strip off any junk on the surface. A little eaiser to work with then Zaino IMO...
In fact, the wife just got a silver 06 Accord last week and this is what I applied just yesterday.
In fact, the wife just got a silver 06 Accord last week and this is what I applied just yesterday.
10-02-2005, 10:55 PM
#11
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#7 is a pure glaze....The stuff really doesnt "set", break, or cure.....Its one of those products you can use for shows, but doesnt sit well under a whole lot of products due to its trademark oils. Talk about a learning curve? Thin is mandatory.............
10-02-2005, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by joerockt
Personaly, I've been using Klasse AIO and S100 to top it. I think its a great combo for silver cars. I used to be a Zaino user, but I think Klasse lasts just as long as Zaino and the shine is a bit "deeper". AIO wont remove swirls, but it has cleaners in it to strip off any junk on the surface. A little eaiser to work with then Zaino IMO...
In fact, the wife just got a silver 06 Accord last week and this is what I applied just yesterday.
In fact, the wife just got a silver 06 Accord last week and this is what I applied just yesterday.
Klasse AIO
Klasse SG x3 coats
S100
Touchups of Eagle One WAUD
nothing but MF Towels and rags..
The best I've used on Silver, bar none.
And now with a PC 7336 and Sonus SFX pads.............Even Better !!!!
As far as Meg's #7 Show Car Glaze, unless you have dark colored car, It's not gonna have too much impact.
10-03-2005, 02:06 AM
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My wifes silver accord had zaino on it for some time while I did testing. Once I was done w/ the testing I put on P21S/S100. I was amazed at the difference it made in making the metallic "pop" Durability is very good on this carnuba as well.
Here are some pics of the "pop" i'm talking about.
Here are some pics of the "pop" i'm talking about.
10-03-2005, 07:45 AM
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Correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't someone on this board sayin that Klasse was a pain to get off or was it somethin else?
Now I would really like to do this this weekend but I'm not sure if it'll get to my house in time. will it?
CLpower....holy crap that paint looks sweet!
So Klasse SG is the way to go. I have a mothers pre wax cleaner that I feel I'll keep to use----subsitute for Klasse AIO? And I'll return the meguiars show glaze.
So it looks like:
Clay Majic
Mother's pre-wax
Klasse SG
a syntheic wax
and possible coatin of carnuba
Now I would really like to do this this weekend but I'm not sure if it'll get to my house in time. will it?
CLpower....holy crap that paint looks sweet!
So Klasse SG is the way to go. I have a mothers pre wax cleaner that I feel I'll keep to use----subsitute for Klasse AIO? And I'll return the meguiars show glaze.
So it looks like:
Clay Majic
Mother's pre-wax
Klasse SG
a syntheic wax
and possible coatin of carnuba
10-03-2005, 08:52 AM
#15
The Old Grey Whistle Test
There are a few methods for the application / removal of Klasse SG-
•As an alternative, put some SG into small misting spray bottle, this will enable you to cover the applicator while using the minimum amount of product and this will ensure a super thin application.
•Apply to whole vehicle (1-1.5oz should be sufficient for most vehicles) taking care not to apply to absorbent surfaces (i.e. unpainted plastics and rubber trim)
•Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used
•If there are stubborn spots (usually because too much SG was used, fill a spray bottle with a 4:1 solution of distilled water / SG and lightly spray the panel and buff. After you're done, keep the bottle around and use as a QD.
1.Wipe On / Wipe Off method: apply to the first panel and then to the second, remove residue from the first panel and apply to the third panel, removing residue from the second panel, and etc
2.Apply a thin layer of SG, leave for a period of 8-12 (overnight) and then buff to a shine
JonM
•As an alternative, put some SG into small misting spray bottle, this will enable you to cover the applicator while using the minimum amount of product and this will ensure a super thin application.
•Apply to whole vehicle (1-1.5oz should be sufficient for most vehicles) taking care not to apply to absorbent surfaces (i.e. unpainted plastics and rubber trim)
•Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used
•If there are stubborn spots (usually because too much SG was used, fill a spray bottle with a 4:1 solution of distilled water / SG and lightly spray the panel and buff. After you're done, keep the bottle around and use as a QD.
1.Wipe On / Wipe Off method: apply to the first panel and then to the second, remove residue from the first panel and apply to the third panel, removing residue from the second panel, and etc
2.Apply a thin layer of SG, leave for a period of 8-12 (overnight) and then buff to a shine
JonM
10-03-2005, 08:59 AM
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Nice tips TOGWT
So do the layers of SG have to wait 8-12 hrs or can I do it as I pass around the car?
Ok, just got done makin an order. I am returnin the meguiars glaze for sure. Instead now I'll be gettin poorboys polish. And of course, toppin it off with Klasse SG.
Can the polish be layered or would it be a waste or instead layer the Klasse?
So do the layers of SG have to wait 8-12 hrs or can I do it as I pass around the car?
Ok, just got done makin an order. I am returnin the meguiars glaze for sure. Instead now I'll be gettin poorboys polish. And of course, toppin it off with Klasse SG.
Can the polish be layered or would it be a waste or instead layer the Klasse?
10-03-2005, 01:33 PM
#17
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Quote: So do the layers of SG have to wait 8-12 hrs or can I do it as I pass around the car?
In order to ‘layer’ a product it first has to cross-link (bond) or the second ‘layer’ will remove/disturb the bonding process of the first.Apply product and then do a swipe test-
1.Air is the primary catalyst for the wax / sealant to dry; low air temperatures and / or humidity may effect the drying time requirements.
2.After sufficient drying time, when the product starts to ‘haze’ do a quick swipe test with your finger. If no smearing or drag is evident, the residue is ready to be removed. Residues should be dry when you buff them. If the residues are still wet, you are using too much product
3.If the area you have swiped is smudgy, or streaky, or there is noticeable product, then it has not had sufficient time to set-up, allow more time before your remove it. Product residues should be dry when you buff them. If the residues are still wet, you are using too much product
4.SG is formulated from hard resins and therefore must be given sufficient time to cross-link, >12 hours, or anytime up to 72 hour period is recommended before other layers / products are applied, this provides better durability and a deeper shine
JonM
In order to ‘layer’ a product it first has to cross-link (bond) or the second ‘layer’ will remove/disturb the bonding process of the first.Apply product and then do a swipe test-
1.Air is the primary catalyst for the wax / sealant to dry; low air temperatures and / or humidity may effect the drying time requirements.
2.After sufficient drying time, when the product starts to ‘haze’ do a quick swipe test with your finger. If no smearing or drag is evident, the residue is ready to be removed. Residues should be dry when you buff them. If the residues are still wet, you are using too much product
3.If the area you have swiped is smudgy, or streaky, or there is noticeable product, then it has not had sufficient time to set-up, allow more time before your remove it. Product residues should be dry when you buff them. If the residues are still wet, you are using too much product
4.SG is formulated from hard resins and therefore must be given sufficient time to cross-link, >12 hours, or anytime up to 72 hour period is recommended before other layers / products are applied, this provides better durability and a deeper shine
JonM
10-03-2005, 02:27 PM
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Hmm ok. Thanks John
Well I plan on slappin the Klasse on either friday or saturday into the night. I was thinkin of buffin it out when I woke up. Now the temp in the area would range from probably 45-55 degrees overnight. Would that make my wait longer?
And about the SG...will a dime size be enough for a 2x2 area or too much?
Well I plan on slappin the Klasse on either friday or saturday into the night. I was thinkin of buffin it out when I woke up. Now the temp in the area would range from probably 45-55 degrees overnight. Would that make my wait longer?
And about the SG...will a dime size be enough for a 2x2 area or too much?
10-04-2005, 08:03 AM
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I would not leave klasse on overnight...you will spend the entire day trying to remove it. What Jon M is talking about is proper layering instructions...of which I agree completely. If you want to layer a sealant, a lot of people will tell you to apply the sealant, allow for time to dry, remove it, and then put the car out in the sun. The body panels will heat up and really allow the sealant to bake on. The earliest you should apply a second coat of sealant is 24 hours after the first. This will allow proper cross-linking to occur.
Last edited by maximumdetails; 10-04-2005 at 08:06 AM.
10-04-2005, 11:19 AM
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Alright so don't leave it overnight but a few hours is ok? [one says overnight, another disagrees] I doubt there'll be sun this weekend except for sunday. So I guess I could work as far as the polish on either friday or saturday night, work the Klasse sunday mornin, wait a couple of hours in the sun with it, remove, and wait 24 hours for next coat. Sounds good?
These are the products I've bought so far that I plan on usin:
Clay Magic
Mothers pre-wax
Poorboy's polish w/ carnuba
Klasse SG
The last 2 items are in the mail
Am I missin a procedure or anythin?
and thanx once again for all ur comments ( I really dont want to f*** my baby up )
These are the products I've bought so far that I plan on usin:
Clay Magic
Mothers pre-wax
Poorboy's polish w/ carnuba
Klasse SG
The last 2 items are in the mail
Am I missin a procedure or anythin?
and thanx once again for all ur comments ( I really dont want to f*** my baby up )
Last edited by 98SilverSurfer; 10-04-2005 at 11:22 AM.
10-04-2005, 02:35 PM
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Ok, I never leave Sealant Glaze (SG) on all night. I would have a brick wall to buff off in the morning. I do Jon's wipe on, wipe off method. Try leaving it on for 8-12 hours...it might work for you. Remember, regardless of the application and removal method you choose, you must wait at least 24 hours before applying a second coat.
10-04-2005, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 98SilverSurfer
Alright so don't leave it overnight but a few hours is ok? [one says overnight, another disagrees] I doubt there'll be sun this weekend except for sunday. So I guess I could work as far as the polish on either friday or saturday night, work the Klasse sunday mornin, wait a couple of hours in the sun with it, remove, and wait 24 hours for next coat. Sounds good?
These are the products I've bought so far that I plan on usin:
Clay Magic
Mothers pre-wax
Poorboy's polish w/ carnuba
Klasse SG
The last 2 items are in the mail
Am I missin a procedure or anythin?
and thanx once again for all ur comments ( I really dont want to f*** my baby up )
These are the products I've bought so far that I plan on usin:
Clay Magic
Mothers pre-wax
Poorboy's polish w/ carnuba
Klasse SG
The last 2 items are in the mail
Am I missin a procedure or anythin?
and thanx once again for all ur comments ( I really dont want to f*** my baby up )
And let me get this straight, your going to put on SG and let it sit in the sun?? Good luck with that
Read this thread and this thread on applying SG...Neither of which mention anything about the need to leave it on your car, out in the sun, for an extented period of time.
10-06-2005, 07:57 AM
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Yea I misinterpreted maximumdetails post. But like I said, I'm a noob to this.
Does any1 have experience with poorboys polish w/ carnuba? Since it has carnuba, for the hell of a question, can it be layered?
Does any1 have experience with poorboys polish w/ carnuba? Since it has carnuba, for the hell of a question, can it be layered?
10-06-2005, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 98SilverSurfer
Yea I misinterpreted maximumdetails post. But like I said, I'm a noob to this.
Does any1 have experience with poorboys polish w/ carnuba? Since it has carnuba, for the hell of a question, can it be layered?
Does any1 have experience with poorboys polish w/ carnuba? Since it has carnuba, for the hell of a question, can it be layered?
10-06-2005, 10:21 PM
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wax
I own a silver metalic and b/c the time constraints I have, I elected to use NXT generation wax. Very easy to apply and super slick afterwards. While I have never used Klasse b/c the mentioned applying time/effort/difficulty, the NXT gives me a mirror like shine which I am happy with. Also, the time that it takes for me to apply it to my TSX is just under 30 minutes. I sometimes apply the spray wax on top of it to give the wax an extra boost but so far, can't say I have notice that much difference after applying the spray wax.
Now, my question is, does Meznera's Acrylic Shield work on NXT?
Now, my question is, does Meznera's Acrylic Shield work on NXT?
10-07-2005, 11:01 AM
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Aight guys, I would like an answer about the poorboys polish w/ carnuba layerin question I posted earlier. I want to tackle my car right after I get outta work today.
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
10-07-2005, 11:16 AM
#29
Originally Posted by 98SilverSurfer
So the poorboys is junk?(return it?) Klasse is way better?
10-07-2005, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 98SilverSurfer
So the poorboys is junk?(return it?) Klasse is way better?
I dont understand how you come to your conclusions...I never said that. Klasse AIO and SG are NOT waxes. Waxes and polishes are two completely different products.
10-07-2005, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Hawhyen51
I wouldn't call Poorboys "junk", I think their product line is great. The PwC is a one step product - cleans and seals in one application - great if you're short on time or in a hurry. With Klasse, you polish/clean w/AIO, then seal it (SG, UPP, EX-P) or an LSP like carnauba (P21S, S100, Natty's Paste Wax). The choice is entirely yours. Different product combos will produce different results. Not saying one is better than the other. Regardless of the product, preparation of the vehicle's surface will determine the final outcome.
And SilverSurfer, if you still cant understand this, I dont know what else we can do to help...
Here is my procedure:
Wash and Clay at the same time (wash small area first, leave soap on, clay, rinse off)
Dry
Apply Klasse AIO POLISH. Wipe off immediately.
Apply Klasse SG GLAZE. Wipe off immediately. (OPTIONAL: Apply a second coat after 24 hours and a third after another 24 hours. Complete this ALL BEFORE THE NEXT STEP).
Apply S100 CARNAUBA WAX. Wipe off immediately.
10-07-2005, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by joerockt
I dont understand how you come to your conclusions...I never said that. Klasse AIO and SG are NOT waxes. Waxes and polishes are two completely different products.
I can't understand this? Sure I can. Of course I know waxes and polishes are two different products. I was referin to poorboys polish w/ carnuba vs. Klasse AIO. You didn't understand me, I shoulda been more detailed.
So layerin the poorboys w/ carnuba would be like layerin AIO? waste of time and effort
Hawhyen51....u said PwC cleans and polishes. Should I still use the Mother's pre-wax cleaner as the step before this? Cause isn't the PwC doin the same thing?
I do want to clean this bad boy up and down so I guess it wouldnt hurt to use both right
10-07-2005, 12:05 PM
#33
I see no harm in it, though it's not necessary because the PwC will clean and seal in one application. You should try at a later time, use a separate cleaner/polish, sealant, and than an LSP (option). A little extra work, but IMO, worth it. As previously mentioned, it's easier to layer a sealant like EX-P, UPP or SG. One bit of advice, use a back and forth or side to side motion (think claybar) when applying your products to reduce/prevent swirls. Forgot to mention, that most Poorboys products can be used in the sun or shade. That's one of the reasons why I like them. Hopefully answered your questions. Good Luck and post some photos when you get done.
Last edited by Hawhyen51; 10-07-2005 at 12:10 PM.
10-07-2005, 12:33 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by Hawhyen51
I see no harm in it, though it's not necessary because the PwC will clean and seal in one application. You should try at a later time, use a separate cleaner/polish, sealant, and than an LSP (option). A little extra work, but IMO, worth it. As previously mentioned, it's easier to layer a sealant like EX-P, UPP or SG. One bit of advice, use a back and forth or side to side motion (think claybar) when applying your products to reduce/prevent swirls. Forgot to mention, that most Poorboys products can be used in the sun or shade. That's one of the reasons why I like them. Hopefully answered your questions. Good Luck and post some photos when you get done.
I know about the back and forth motions. Does that apply to the sides cause I heard an up and down motion works well?
Yea, when I was readin up on Poorboys I was glad that you can use it in the sun or shade. great idea on their part.
I'm goin to try and take b4 and after pics. It's a slight overcast right now and should be rainin tonight. I'm gonna try and rush home and take some pics w/ my girl's digicam.
I can't wait.
Thanks for all your help guys
10-07-2005, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 98SilverSurfer
I can't understand this? Sure I can. Of course I know waxes and polishes are two different products. I was referin to poorboys polish w/ carnuba vs. Klasse AIO. You didn't understand me, I shoulda been more detailed.
If you use the Poorboys or the Klasse, you will not have to use the MEG's #7
Originally Posted by 98SilverSurfer
So layerin the poorboys w/ carnuba would be like layerin AIO? waste of time and effort
Originally Posted by 98SilverSurfer
Hawhyen51....u said PwC cleans and polishes. Should I still use the Mother's pre-wax cleaner as the step before this? Cause isn't the PwC doin the same thing?
I do want to clean this bad boy up and down so I guess it wouldnt hurt to use both right
I do want to clean this bad boy up and down so I guess it wouldnt hurt to use both right
10-07-2005, 12:59 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by joerockt
If you use the Poorboys or the Klasse, you will not have to use the MEG's #7
Yes, they both contain cleaners and are not layerable.
No...And its not Mothers like you said, its Megs #7...Just take it back...
Yes, they both contain cleaners and are not layerable.
No...And its not Mothers like you said, its Megs #7...Just take it back...
And it is mothers....I was referin to Mothers pre-wax cleaner, it's typed right there. So is it still ok?
But I got a question for u joerockt. I read one of the links u sent me and it was great on info for applyin SG (autopia.org). Now it says to use terry covered foam applicator. Is that what u used or did u opt for the MF towels?
10-07-2005, 03:01 PM
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any subsitute for that? I also have diaper cloth rags and 100% cotton towels, not terry cloth. And of course, MF towles r in my arsenal.
It's just that I was plannin to do it right after work. I don't want to wait a week for another shipment.
It's just that I was plannin to do it right after work. I don't want to wait a week for another shipment.