My headlights have lil specs on them from highway driving . Not to bad when the headlights are not on but at night when dark and lights on you see the marks on the headlights and it's driving me crazy . I've searched and people seem to not polish the headlight because it takes some type of coating off the headlight, or should I polish them ? Wat are my options? Thanks

 

ThAnks for moving it to a thread that no one views .... Guess I'm on my own with this one .

 

no, people who are pro detailers come here, be patient for a bit.

 

polish away...you can even go as far as sanding them with very fine grit paper, but i usually just polish away with my udm and white or orange pads....

 

using a PC or a rotary at low speed with a very very mild abrasive should take all of that off, but be sure to use some type of uv sealer when finished to prevent oxidation and what not.

 

Thanks guys .. what uv sealer should I go with ?

 

I'd like to know this too..

 

Why does everyone find it difficult to just use a U.V. inhibiting clear vinyl?
Not only does it prevent fading, it resists rock chips, which is what your suffering from.......

 

actually you know what work best i have been experimenting with my rotary that I forgot I had which is this

http://www.amazon.com/Vector-Manufac...=cm_cr_pr_pb_t which was sitting in my garage still in the boxed sealed.

because it has ALOT of power most of the setting i use to be extra careful is 1 or 2 since we are talking plastic i put it on 1

and i have been using it with http://www.buy.com/prod/meguiars-m-0...204620484.html

now I know before you say he thats the wrong shit, it actually works because it is the least abrasive material I could find not going online due to being cash strapped at the moment.

I just put about a dime size amount on the 7 in pad which is a soft pad and spend maybe 2 mins on low with it, got most of the defects off in about 2 mins then i clean it with my 50/50 alcohol/water mix and put a uv coating on it

I just have to be real careful or it could literally eat the plastic away, but with the practice I have on my junkyard hood and headlights I am mastering it i might step it up to a little be more abrasive type product but usually one or two goes with that and it just clears them up.

I know it is not the right stuff but it is quick and I only had to do it twice because the first time i forgot to put the UV sealant on.

 

any good uv protectors out there??

 

If you use a sealant on your car, why not just use that? Protects your paint from UV, so the headlight should be the same.

 

So what is this UV sealant your talking of .. thats a glaze.

 

I'd like to see pictures of the headlight before I make any recommendation.
The "little specks" can be pitting from rocks hitting it?
In that case you can just use the otc headlight restoration kit from 3M or something, it's basically sand paper (I believe 2000 grit, 2500 grit, and 3000 grit?) with some kind of polish.

 

Use a product like Opti-Seal or OptiCoat (this can obtain a coating thickness of 2-3 microns)from OPT for UV protection

Ultra violet stabilizer - providing protection from ultra violet radiation (UV-B) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading / yellowing) be cognizant that ultra violet heat (UV-A) radiation can also affect the structural integrity of materials by drying out and therefore removing their elasticity and causing cracks.

There is no such thing as a permanent UV stabilizer, it a matter of physics, not chemistry. Ultra violet protection is a sacrificial and therefore a renewable protection; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and it needs to be re-applied on a regular 45 to 60 day basis (dependent upon location climatic condition)

Dependent on reflective value of the paint colour; surface reflection will provide some UV radiation protection along with some sacrificial protection as the wax or polymers oxidizes. Some waxes and polymer sealants have ultra violet (UV-B) protection agents added when they are formulated, but be cognizant that the protection a microscopically thin layer can provide is limited. This renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ (4 Mils) thick.

Wet-sanding (Glass or Polycarbonate)

OEM headlights have a UV protectionl coating applied, which must be replaced or the problem will reoccur after a few months

• Use Nikkens™ 1500, 2000, 3000 grit finishing paper soaked for half an hour or so.
• Tape off headlights with painters tape
• Four Star Professional Abrasive Enhancing Gel, extends sandpaper life and adds lubrication - non-toxic, use instead of water
• When sanding the lens ensure that you sand in one direction only. It's important to keep the lines as straight and uniform as possible as they are often still slightly visible even after polishing. Providing the lines are in one direction you’ll never notice them once the acrylic coating is evenly applied. Otherwise random sanding lines will distort the light beam and become a distraction
• Wipe the lens surface to inspect and once clear start to polish
• Using Menzerna PO 85 RD 3.01- Super Intensive Polish and a 4-inch Lake County (LC) Orange pad at 1500 RPM
• Repeat as necessary
• Check surface temperature on a regular basis
• Renew the ultra violet (UV-B) protection
• Use a product like Opti-Seal or Opti-Coat (this can obtain a coating thickness of 2-3 microns)

 

Took the words right out of my mouth Patrick.

First, the OP needs to refinish his lights and then protect with the film.