Hi all,
I just need some advice from u "the experts." I own a 2005 WDP TL. When I go to work, I leave my car outside and I was just wondering what to use to protect the paint. Also, I wold love to make the car this wet look. I know the white paint is never going to get this wet look but atleast close to it.
I'll have few days off of work, so that will be the perfect time to take care of the paint.
Thanks in advance.
Tim
BTW, this is my car

 

All you need to do (by the looks of it, looks pretty good from So Cal!) is crispen up the reflection a little. Clean the paint with a paint cleaner or light polish, then a good sealant like UPP or Optimums new OptiSeal.
OptiSeal toped with there Spray wax will give you UV protection.
When I get around to it, i will UPP one weekend, and OptiSeal the following.

 

I think most synthetic products have UV inhibitors and if the vehicle is frequently maintained you shouldn't have any problems. My product of choice is FS UPP and DG 111. Proper surface prep will bring out any color.

 

Thanks for your advice. I know u had this question so many times but where can I get UPP?
Let me see if I understood correct. One weekend I'll use UPP and by the next weekend the car will get dirty. I'll have to wash it and then I can use OptiSeal. That way I won't wash out the UPP coat?
Thanks guys.
Tim

 

You can get UPP from right from Excel's store. Stuff is awesome. I'm doing a white BMW this weekend and its exactly what I'm going to use after a good polishing.

 

I still have the Mothers Pre-wax cleaner/polish. Will that work before I can apply UPP?

 

Sure. And if you havent clayed in a while, might as well do that too...

 

It's a mild polish that will clean and shine your paint. It will also remove oxidation, old wax buildup and other contaminants. If your paint is pretty much swirl free, I see no reason why it shouldn't work. If you do have surface defects (mild swirls, light scratches) I would suggest a more aggressive polish.

Are you doing this by hand? Just a FYI . . . Hand polishing will create inconsistencies from panel to panel not to mention being time consuming and tiresome. Machine polishing is a much more effective process

 

By "more aggressive" which one is in your mind?

I know by hand is not the best way to do it, but hey I've been doing it that way many times.

 

At times a paint cleaner may be insufficient. Products like PB, for example has SSR1, SSR2, SSR2.5 and SSR3 (varying degrees of abrasiveness). They also can be categorized as light cut, medium cut, and heavy cut. Start off with the least abrasive and work your way up till the imperfection is corrected.

If you're wondering what I use, I have on hand the FS Body Shop line, Optimum and PB polishes used with different polishing pads.
As previously stated, strictly FYI . . .

 

Clear Coats are two part systems (either a Urethane, or a good quality non-yellowing Polyurethane and an Epoxy) a solvent based urethane (a water-based clear coat is not yet available) is applied in two layers; it also contains ultra violet radiation (UVR) inhibitors. Clear coat is not armour plating but by adding UV blockers it provides a level of protection for the colour pigmentation of the base (colour) coat, but it must be protected, and the most durable protection is a polymer sealant.

Durability is really a very real concern for car owners today. With the increase in airborne pollution and other environmental factors, a car's finish is subject to serious damage. Acid rain; jet fuel fallout; industrial fallout; hard water, not to mention high acidic bird droppings; insect residue; tree sap all are very dangerous to a paint finish if not removed immediately.

 

OK Pat, I cleaned the paint with Mothers Pre-wax cleaner/polish, then I used Mothers Sealer/glaze, and then I got the Four star UPP I used 2 coat with 24hours between the coats.
Now, the OptiSeal, the car will get dirty before I can use the OptiSeal. Is it OK to wash the car? I won't wash the UPP way?
Also is this th OptiSeal your talking about?
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/s...520&recview=11

 

Why so much sealing? Your good to go with just the UPP?!
UPP probably didnt sit to well on the Mothers to begin with. I dont mind layering with like products but when you start adding different variations of products.....well, Its probably not very beneficial.
I think if you double coat your favorite product, your done!
And yes, thats the OptiSeal I have made reference to before.....I dont want to oversell anyone........If you have UPP, theres really no need to acquire any more products unless its to kill you curiosity.

 

Thanks for getting back to me so fast. I actually had people asking me, after the UPP, if this is the new Acura and I said this is 2005. They were like WOW for an 05 the paint looks very good. So now, after these 2 coats of UPP how much time should I wait before I use again?
Also, what do you recommend to use since Mothers is not that good to use before UPP?

 

I think what Patrick meant was not using the Mothers Sealer/Glaze prior to applying UPP. Surface prep, using either a pre-wax cleaner (removes previous layers of wax, oxidation) or a polish (to remove swirls, light scratches) will provide a clean surface. You really don't need a glaze. Apply UPP after the pre-wax cleaner, allow to cure and apply the 2nd coat.

Reapply 3-4 months, upkeep monthly with UPPS, and in between washes with a QD like DG AW. As far as using OptiSeal, I would use it as a stand alone product.

 

Perfect Danny.....With emphasis on UPPS..

 

Thank you guys. You are the best. Next time I'll use just the Mothers Pre-wax cleaner/polish and then UPP with 2 coats and 24 hours between the coats.
When it is time to use the UPP, should I use Mothers Pre-wax cleaner/polish again or just UPP?
Pat, I'll need to buy just the UPPS to use once a month to keep the shine.
Tim

 

I would only use the UPP. Use the UPPS (If you want to) monthly to help maintain that UPP base. UPPS is a good stand alone, but I think the liquid version is slightly better. However, theres no better compliment to UPP then UPPS.