PC Newbie, need some tips.
02-24-2009, 10:02 AM
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PC Newbie, need some tips.
So I got a PC for xmas (woohoo) along with some Pinnacle XMT products it came with: medium swirl remover, fine swirl remover and a carnuba glaze. Also came with a couple 5.5" orange pads, couple 6.5" grey(black?) pads and a 6.5" white. It was almost warm here in jersey recently (45 deg lol) so I gave it a try. I have a lot of light swirls in my car and a few heavier scratches, as well as a pretty huge scape in my bumper where I got hit-and-run'd 1 night. My results were less than I expected. It actually took out just about all of the scrape, except the part where it went all the way down to the plastic (obviously no fixing that). The other panels I did, it got most of the swirls out, but some of the deeper ones are still there, and the scratches didnt come out, and it's not noticeably shinier than the parts I didnt touch at all. I assume this is because I dont know what I'm doing, I'm not talking major scratches, cant feel them at all with your fingernail.
So I have a few questions. I dont really know how long to work each product, or how to know when your done. I used the medium swirl stuff w/ orange pad, then fine w/ white and then the glaze on grey. Looking for some tips and pointers here. Also been reading alot of stuff on here and probably going to try some different products as well. I have seen alot of people who seem to use Optimum polish -> Opt poli-seal -> DWG -> Four star UPP. But is it necessary to use the poli-seal and the polish? Arent they kinda the same thing? Also, should I have a red pad too, or if the grey good?
Thanks in advance for your help, and I'll keep reading other posts for more info in the mean time
So I have a few questions. I dont really know how long to work each product, or how to know when your done. I used the medium swirl stuff w/ orange pad, then fine w/ white and then the glaze on grey. Looking for some tips and pointers here. Also been reading alot of stuff on here and probably going to try some different products as well. I have seen alot of people who seem to use Optimum polish -> Opt poli-seal -> DWG -> Four star UPP. But is it necessary to use the poli-seal and the polish? Arent they kinda the same thing? Also, should I have a red pad too, or if the grey good?
Thanks in advance for your help, and I'll keep reading other posts for more info in the mean time
02-24-2009, 11:17 AM
#2
Former Sponsor
Answers in bold......
So I got a PC for xmas (woohoo) along with some Pinnacle XMT products it came with: medium swirl remover (For those deeper scratches and swirls) fine swirl remover (For general swirl removal, semi annual/quarterly detailing) and a carnuba glaze (Best used AFTER swirl removal, contains fillers and carnauba which will dissapear). Also came with a couple 5.5" orange pads (medium aggressive pad), couple 6.5" grey(black?) pads (use for all in one products, glazes and sealants) and a 6.5" white (Light abrasive swirl removal pad). It was almost warm here in jersey recently (45 deg lol) so I gave it a try. I have a lot of light swirls in my car and a few heavier scratches, as well as a pretty huge scape in my bumper where I got hit-and-run'd 1 night. My results were less than I expected. It actually took out just about all of the scrape, except the part where it went all the way down to the plastic (obviously no fixing that). The other panels I did, it got most of the swirls out, but some of the deeper ones are still there, and the scratches didnt come out, and it's not noticeably shinier than the parts I didnt touch at all. I assume this is because I dont know what I'm doing, I'm not talking major scratches, cant feel them at all with your fingernail. Ya lost me. You were somewhat dissapointed, yet it accomplished quite a bit for you!
So I have a few questions. I dont really know how long to work each product, or how to know when your done. I used the medium swirl stuff w/ orange pad, then fine w/ white and then the glaze on grey. Looking for some tips and pointers here. Each product is different i.e. Optimum vs. brand X. General rule of thumb, 3 slow passes as a starting point. Gauge results and go from there. If the product has dried before your eyes, you may need more to act as a lubricating agent. You always want product between pad and surface. If it tends to be difficult to wipe the polish off, you may be using too much, thus you have too much lubrication. You need to find a happy medium, which can only be deterimed by the user! I/We dont know what machine speed your using, how fast of an arm movement your using, surface temperature, humidity, applied pressure etc.......Really experiment with the machine with a light abrasive pad (white) and a light polish (Optimum Polish or your fine swirl remover in hand) Also been reading alot of stuff on here and probably going to try some different products as well. I have seen alot of people who seem to use Optimum polish -> Opt poli-seal -> DWG -> Four star UPP. But is it necessary to use the poli-seal and the polish? Poliseal is a product for vehicles in real nice shape, which need a little cleaning, and protection. Its not a product you would want to use and expect long term durability with. Its an all in one style of product which fits the need of many enthusiasts who keep the paint in pretty tip top condition. In your case, it would be used as a maintenance product after the swirls and scratches are reduced to a level of user satisfaction. Arent they kinda the same thing? Polishes on the other hand have one thing in mind, swirl/scratch reduction/elimination. They are designed for this sole purpose, and offer about three days protection, due to the lubricating agents. Also, should I have a red pad too, or if the grey good? The grey is for a variety of purposes, Red is for SEALANT/Liquid Carnauba application only.
Thanks in advance for your help, and I'll keep reading other posts for more info in the mean time
So I have a few questions. I dont really know how long to work each product, or how to know when your done. I used the medium swirl stuff w/ orange pad, then fine w/ white and then the glaze on grey. Looking for some tips and pointers here. Each product is different i.e. Optimum vs. brand X. General rule of thumb, 3 slow passes as a starting point. Gauge results and go from there. If the product has dried before your eyes, you may need more to act as a lubricating agent. You always want product between pad and surface. If it tends to be difficult to wipe the polish off, you may be using too much, thus you have too much lubrication. You need to find a happy medium, which can only be deterimed by the user! I/We dont know what machine speed your using, how fast of an arm movement your using, surface temperature, humidity, applied pressure etc.......Really experiment with the machine with a light abrasive pad (white) and a light polish (Optimum Polish or your fine swirl remover in hand) Also been reading alot of stuff on here and probably going to try some different products as well. I have seen alot of people who seem to use Optimum polish -> Opt poli-seal -> DWG -> Four star UPP. But is it necessary to use the poli-seal and the polish? Poliseal is a product for vehicles in real nice shape, which need a little cleaning, and protection. Its not a product you would want to use and expect long term durability with. Its an all in one style of product which fits the need of many enthusiasts who keep the paint in pretty tip top condition. In your case, it would be used as a maintenance product after the swirls and scratches are reduced to a level of user satisfaction. Arent they kinda the same thing? Polishes on the other hand have one thing in mind, swirl/scratch reduction/elimination. They are designed for this sole purpose, and offer about three days protection, due to the lubricating agents. Also, should I have a red pad too, or if the grey good? The grey is for a variety of purposes, Red is for SEALANT/Liquid Carnauba application only.
Thanks in advance for your help, and I'll keep reading other posts for more info in the mean time
02-24-2009, 02:31 PM
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Thanks Excel, cleared up a lot for me. So basically I want to use the fine swirl remover or other polish with white pad to get rid of the swirls and only use the medium and orange on the spots that need extra work, right?
Let me clear up where I lost you... The scrape in the bumper I spent A LOT of time on and it came out great. The other parts I did came out much better than they were, but not perfect. I'm guessing I just need to work it a little more, in particular the areas with bigger scratches.
I was doing way more than 3 passes and I was putting some pressure on it (which I now know is wrong). I started on a speed of 2 or 3 to spread the stuff out and then went to 5.5 or 6. If 3 passes isn't enough, do you put more product on the pad or just keep using whats there?
I'm going to give this another go when it starts to actually get warm out. Til then I'm gonna learn all I can here lol
Let me clear up where I lost you... The scrape in the bumper I spent A LOT of time on and it came out great. The other parts I did came out much better than they were, but not perfect. I'm guessing I just need to work it a little more, in particular the areas with bigger scratches.
I was doing way more than 3 passes and I was putting some pressure on it (which I now know is wrong). I started on a speed of 2 or 3 to spread the stuff out and then went to 5.5 or 6. If 3 passes isn't enough, do you put more product on the pad or just keep using whats there?
I'm going to give this another go when it starts to actually get warm out. Til then I'm gonna learn all I can here lol
02-24-2009, 02:44 PM
#4
Former Sponsor
Bold........
Thanks Excel, cleared up a lot for me. So basically I want to use the fine swirl remover or other polish with white pad to get rid of the swirls and only use the medium and orange on the spots that need extra work, right?
Let me clear up where I lost you... The scrape in the bumper I spent A LOT of time on and it came out great. The other parts I did came out much better than they were, but not perfect. I'm guessing I just need to work it a little more, in particular the areas with bigger scratches. You need to reach a point where you say to yourself, "I can live with that". You only have so much clear coat, and you can buff a 1x1 area trying to remove a scratch, all the while reducing your clear coat. Another option is to add 4" pads to your arsenal for the isolated areas that require spot buffing.
I was doing way more than 3 passes and I was putting some pressure on it (which I now know is wrong). I started on a speed of 2 or 3 to spread the stuff out and then went to 5.5 or 6. If 3 passes isn't enough, do you put more product on the pad or just keep using whats there? The abrasives will eventually wear out requiring additional product. I would veture to say after 3-4 passes, the abrasives are about gone. Once the abrasives are gone, all you have left is the pads attrition to abrade the scratches and swirls. You need the combination of pad and product to effectively reduce the swirls/scratches.
I'm going to give this another go when it starts to actually get warm out. Til then I'm gonna learn all I can here lol
Let me clear up where I lost you... The scrape in the bumper I spent A LOT of time on and it came out great. The other parts I did came out much better than they were, but not perfect. I'm guessing I just need to work it a little more, in particular the areas with bigger scratches. You need to reach a point where you say to yourself, "I can live with that". You only have so much clear coat, and you can buff a 1x1 area trying to remove a scratch, all the while reducing your clear coat. Another option is to add 4" pads to your arsenal for the isolated areas that require spot buffing.
I was doing way more than 3 passes and I was putting some pressure on it (which I now know is wrong). I started on a speed of 2 or 3 to spread the stuff out and then went to 5.5 or 6. If 3 passes isn't enough, do you put more product on the pad or just keep using whats there? The abrasives will eventually wear out requiring additional product. I would veture to say after 3-4 passes, the abrasives are about gone. Once the abrasives are gone, all you have left is the pads attrition to abrade the scratches and swirls. You need the combination of pad and product to effectively reduce the swirls/scratches.
I'm going to give this another go when it starts to actually get warm out. Til then I'm gonna learn all I can here lol
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