Hi acuraziners,

I was just wondering anybody who has this product, recommend it and if there is. A specific method of washing with this product, and is a detailer spray neccesery when using this product?.

 

I use it a lot... Do a Google search.. There is lots about it.. And Utube videos.

 

use it all the time. been using it the last 3-4 years now. love this stuff. no marring.

two bucket method with frequent rinsing of wash mitt. if car is layered in crud...hose down the car first and then do two bucket method. search youtube for the how to or autogeek.net. no, detail spray is not necessary unless you want to clean up the left over water spots or give it a good once over for a little luster. i use optimum spray wax after an ONR wash.

i use the original blue stuff and the new green ONR wash and wax.

 

I've used Optimum no rinse and it works wonderfully. You have several options for using it. Personally, I have used a Lowes grout sponge, 2 buckets of water (one with onr solution), and microfiber towel for drying. Other method I've used is using a microfiber towel for each panel, a single bucket, and a microfiber bucket. Anyway you use it, no detail spray is needed. Also consider Duragloss Rinseless Wash, its cheaper and just as good. Hope this helps!

 

Before and after pictures of the results would be great too , thanks!!!

 

What's the diffrence between the onr wax and onr detail?.

Is grit guard neccesary ?.

Do you go in a straight pattern when you wipe down the panels?

 

I haven't used this ONR YET.

But I plan on buying it soon?

I'm trying also trying to convince my mom to buy it, and she says that before she bought all these car cleaning and she says it's a waste of money , and she thinks I won't use it.

But hopefully with your guys opinion and experience with this product , it will convince her to buy it?.

 

There is ONR & ONR with wax. I prefer without. Detail is used for minor touch ups etc , ONR is for washing.

In reality if you have a house and can use a hose etc conventional washing is the way to go. If not ONR is a good option.

I use a single bucket with a home made grit guard , sheepskin mitt and a few WW M/F towels to dry.

 

Can you tell me how to make a homemade grit guard that would be very helpful? Thanks

 

2.5 gal pail from Lowes etc .. egg crate light fixture lens from a flouresent fixture ( Lowes ) , cut to fit .. do 2 layers .. wala done

 

Hahah niceeee but how much was the egg crate ?

Do you wanna ship me some of that onr solution , I'm just kidding?

You only using one bucket method?

 

Egg crate is cheap... A lot of times you can get broken ones from electrical supply places or Lowes etc. . Ya I just use 1bucket. I have never saw a benifit for the 2 if you use good quality equipment.

 

Yeah have you used any other waterless products , because I want to just go to the coin wash and spray down the car with water so all the dirt gets loose then I want to use a waterless product , but if ONR is better than all of the waterless products then I'll stick with that.

 

Google Garry Dean rinseless... no need for a grit guard.

 

If you choose to use a wash mitt/sponge vs. multiple mf towels, I'd use 2 buckets unless you don't care about swirl marks. Using the same bucket with a dirty wash mitt will place dirt in the wash solution, this is completely independent of using quality stuff. Being able to put it in a bucket of water prior to a putting it back in the wash solution reduces the risk of swirls. Just my opinion and another bucket is fairly cheap...just my 2 cents.

 

Anything of substance that "may" cause swirls marks is rinsed from the mitt be it in the second bucket or the soap bucket. By the time you wash a panel and re enter your mitt to the pail the particulate has sank to the bottom. The grit guard will prevent it from being agitated back up into the water.

I'm not blowing smoke ... My TL have vinyl overlays which are very soft and will mar with no effort .. The car is swirl free. My Civic which is a dark burgundy , as bad as black, swirl free. Just my 2 cents.

 

What if I were to wash down the car with water and then use a waterless product like the Meguiars waterless wash and wax, do you that is effective.

Yes I have heard of the Garry dean method , isn't it where you pile a bunch of microfibres tiles into one bucket , and use one for one panel .

Thanks everyone for the help and your opinions , I appreciate it

 

Rinseless... waterless... 2 bucket.... even 1 bucket as per Jesstzn.

They all have their place and can work well provided you use the correct methods and wash media. Having said that, anything you can do to remove debris off the paint before actually touching it is a plus. I like to hose down the car before I do rinseless whenever possible.

Nonetheless, I am pretty sure the foam and 2 bucket is almost fool proof.

 

OP.. Do you live in a place with no hose access?

 

I live in a place with no hose .

 

Also one more question for everyone, and it's when I mix the ONR with water, does the water have to be cold, warm , or hot?

If I don't use all of the solution can I keep it and reuse it for the next wash!?

 

you do know that theres something called youtube right

 

I have used ONR with cold, warm and hot water and saw no problems.

I also have a bottle of ONR diluted to QD strength and it has been sitting for about year and its still ok.

 

Hana yes I do know that, but all the videos I see, they never tell me to use warm water or cold , that's why I'm asking.

Thanks

 

http://www.eshine.ca/products.php?cat=9&pg=3

Buy it here

 

Jesstzn are you talking about the ONR?

 

Lol you should make a YouTube video demonstrating the onr?

 

Ya... Unless you want to order it out of the US

 

Lots out there already.

 

Oh there is a store in my city where they sell it , eshine shipping was like 12$ .


Hahah you could be YouTube famous lol the Jess the pro detailer....

 

Not really, if I had to go back to using a hose to wash customer's cars, I'd quit detailing. Seriously. Even really dirty cars (unless mud caked), I can wash more quickly and safely with ONR than with a hose.

And the way its looking for a lot of the western US, driveway washing with a hose will likely be banned completely in a lot of areas if the drought continues so there won't be much choice anyway.

 

Whole write-up on ONR and detailing in general with videos:

First, I'll tell you how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less. This does not include any polishing so this method won't correct any defects. However, if your car is in good condition already or you just want it clean and protected, this method is excellent.

Products you will need:

2 gallon capacity bucket
1 wash pad, I like to use microfiber covered foam pads
4-5 16" x 16" microfiber towels
2-3 terry cloth or cotton towels (only for wheel, fenderwell use, NOT FOR PAINT)
Wheel brush(s)
Tire protectant
Glass Cleaner
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine: http://www.ecocarcare.net/no-rinse-wash-shine.php
Optimum Car Wax: http://www.ecocarcare.net/car-wax.php
Video links at the bottom of this post on how to use Optimum No Rinse, Opti-Seal and various tire/fenderwell and claying videos

Steps:

1. Using a capful or approximately one half ounce of Optimum No Rinse (ONR), add it to one gallon of water in the bucket.

2. Clean your wheels, tires and fenderwells using the ONR mixture and your brushes, wipe dry with the terry cloth towels.

3. Dress the wheels and fenderwells with your tire dressing-and don't forget the fenderwells! Dirty fenderwells detract from an otherwise clean and shiny car!



The reason to do the wheels and fenderwells first is so when you apply the tire dressing, any overspray will be washed off the car during the washing step.

4. Empty out your bucket and refill with clean water, adding one half to one full ounce of ONR (less if relatively clean, more if really dirty).

5. Using a chenille covered foam pad or a wash mitt, wash one section of the car at a time and dry immediately using two microfiber towels, one for the first drying pass and making sure you leave a little moisture behind, use the other towel for a second drying pass. If you get the panel completely dry with the first towel, then don't go over it with the second towel because rubbing even a soft microfiber towel on dry paint can leave streaks.

Once you get the process down (it may take a couple washes to really nail it) you should be able to wash the body of your car in 20 minutes or less unless it is really filthy.

6. After washing open your doors, gas cap door and trunk or hatch and wipe down all the jambs.

7. Using Optimum Car Wax (OCW), spray onto a section at a time. Don't soak the panel, just a mist should do. Spread the wax over the panel, flip the towel and wipe to a haze free shine. If you can use a detail spray, you can use OCW, it is that easy. Depending on your area, wash habits, etc, you can expect 3-5 months durability. Honestly though, it is so easy to use you will probably use it every few washes. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do the whole car. In fact, you can also apply it as you dry each section when washing with ONR to save even more time, or apply while washing and apply a second coat for even better protection with very little additional time spent.

8. Clean your glass inside and out.

Stand back and admire your shiny car! Take pics and post them on OT!

There are several vendors who carry Optimum products, the one I would recommend first is www.exceldetail.com because he is an OT member and I believe we should support each other, plus he ships very fast, has excellent customer service, is an all around nice guy and he also carries a fine selection of microfiber towels, the rest of the Optimum product line as well as Clearkote, Poorboys, 4 Star, Propel buffing pads, etc.

Another excellent vendor is www.pakshak.com or the www.ecocarcare.net site, autogeek, etc.

-----------------------

-----------------------

Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide®

HARD SUPPLIES

- Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool
- Bucket
- Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally
- Microfiber covered foam pads, or wash mitts
- Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles
- Terrycloth towels (wheels, tires, fenderwells)
- Microfiber towels (washing, removing product)
- Foam applicators (wax application)
- California Car Duster
- Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents)
Optional for power buffing:
-Porter Cable 7424 XP, Meguiars G110 v2, Griots DA polisher
-An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse. The new microfiber pads that Optimum and Meguiars have are terrific, some softer paints may require foam finishing pads still.

Detailing products

I have listed products I have personally used.

No Rinse Washing

Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine

Conventional Washing

Optimum Car Wash
Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
Mothers California Car Wash
Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash
Kit Carnauba Wash
Duragloss 901

--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.

Drying

Microfiber towels.

Wheel Cleaners

Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.

Clay Bars

Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.

Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.

Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area. Optimum No Rinse works as a clay lube, or you can clay as you wash with ONR since it slicks the paint up enough.

Polishes and compounds

My favorite polishes and compounds are:

Optimum Hyper Polish and Hyper Compound (sprays), Optimum Compound II (heavy cutting), Optimum G-P-S (polish, glaze and sealant in one)
Meguiars #105 Compound, #205 Polish, D300 Compound (designed to work with their Microfiber pads), D301 Finishing Wax (final polish and protectant in one)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
3M Ultrafina #06068, works amazingly well with the blue 3M Ultrafina pad for swirl free rotary work

Use by hand:

Use a microfiber towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.

By Porter Cable polisher

Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.

Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.

Final Polishes and Glazes

You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.

Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish
Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze
Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)
Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba
Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong
Klasse All in One

Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.

Waxes

As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.

Clearkote Carnauba Moose
Optimum Car Wax
Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste
Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste
Collinite 476 Wax
P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!
Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications
Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba

Sealants

Optimum Opti-Seal
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).
3D HD Proxy
Detailer's Pride Poli-Coat Sealant
4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant

Quick Detail Sprays

You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.

Clearkote's Quikshine
Optimum Instant Detailer or ONR mixed down at 1.5 oz per 32 oz
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant
Meguiars #34 Final Inspection

Interior Cleaning Products

I use an 20:1 mixture of water and Woolite HE (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part non HE Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.

Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.

Interior Protectants

Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-

Optimum Protectant Plus
Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant
Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing
Armor All Original Shine
303
Vinylex

Leather-

Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner
Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Tanner's Preserves
Lexol
Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)


Miscellaneous

Glass cleaners:

ONR at QD (1.5 oz per 32 oz of water) strength
Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner
Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner
Stoners Invisible Glass

Tire/fenderwell dressing:

Armor All Original Shine
Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum Tire Shine
Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)

Trim dressing:

3D Trim Protecant
Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Mothers Back to Black

Engine Cleaning

1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.

** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **

2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.

3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.

4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.

5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.

6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.

7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.

-------------------

-------------------

Any detailing questions? We have a detailing forum here at Off Topic:

http://forums.offtopic.com/forumdisp...aysprune=&f=43

In addition, there is a detailing specific forum called Autopia- http://autopia.org

Please do not e-mail or PM me detailing questions, post them in our forum or in this thread and PM me the link only.

Videos of me using Optimum No Rinse:



How to apply Opti-Seal


Carpet cleaning using a Cyclo brush attachment and a Meguiars G110


Fenderwell cleaning with ONR and a pesticide sprayer


Claying with Optimum No Rinse at wash strength


Cleaning wheels with ONR



Cleaning wheels with ONR and Optimum Power Clean


Proper Rotary technique


Headlight polishing using a Meguiars G110 DA buffer

 

Scott.. a lot is preference .. BUY that Camaro I posted a few days ago was done ONR and my Civic was also the next day ... Both were and still are swirl free. Both were mildly dirty .. not winter dirty etc.

 

Wow thanks so much everyone for contributing and helping me out it really helps, I'm a noob at detailing cars and want to get better .
Another question for everyone can I wax all my windows and headlights and rubber trims.

 

Answer depends on the wax.. I never do windows , always do headlights , rubber... Thats chancie even with the right wax. So Right now dont.

 

Alright thnx, but I heard you can clay bar windows to get better visibility, is that right.

 

You can.. I have other products for that.

 

You can wax windows and headlights but in general, I would suggest you keep wax away from rubber trims.

BTW, waxing windows can lead to some chattering when using your wipers.