My Issue with Waxing WDP
#1
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Lamborghini Aventador FTW
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From: CT
My Issue with Waxing WDP
I searched for a long time but I couldn't really find an answer. My car is WDP, and I got the car used so there were a bunch of imperfections in the paint. I have been just trying to improve it as much as possible within my budget. I have the Mothers 1-2-3 combination. My issue is that with the car being white and the products being whitish in color, it is hard for me to tell when it has dried to a haze, and I think I am wiping it off before it fully does the job. Any tips for how to tell when it has hazed over?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Originally Posted by AMGala
I searched for a long time but I couldn't really find an answer. My car is WDP, and I got the car used so there were a bunch of imperfections in the paint. I have been just trying to improve it as much as possible within my budget. I have the Mothers 1-2-3 combination. My issue is that with the car being white and the products being whitish in color, it is hard for me to tell when it has dried to a haze, and I think I am wiping it off before it fully does the job. Any tips for how to tell when it has hazed over?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3
Depending on the temperature and the amount you applied the above post is right ..
Rule of thumb I use for most OTC products if its 50F or above is do the hood and a fender then remove 1/2 the hood .. apply to a door .. remove the other 1/2 the hood .. apply to a door .. remove the fender. etc etc .
For specialty sealants RTFM and use the suggested time temp.
Use a pattern to apply the product;... I use the yellow foam applicators and apply in a circular pattern overlapping 50% as I go left to right and 50% of the row above.
When I remove I use only plush M/F towels and always wipe off in str8 lines as the wind flows over the car .. in other words front to back.
This might be a little harder on the arms and use a couple more towels but reduces the visibility of micro marring.
Hope this helps ..
I have WDP too ..
Rule of thumb I use for most OTC products if its 50F or above is do the hood and a fender then remove 1/2 the hood .. apply to a door .. remove the other 1/2 the hood .. apply to a door .. remove the fender. etc etc .
For specialty sealants RTFM and use the suggested time temp.
Use a pattern to apply the product;... I use the yellow foam applicators and apply in a circular pattern overlapping 50% as I go left to right and 50% of the row above.
When I remove I use only plush M/F towels and always wipe off in str8 lines as the wind flows over the car .. in other words front to back.
This might be a little harder on the arms and use a couple more towels but reduces the visibility of micro marring.
Hope this helps ..
I have WDP too ..
#4
Originally Posted by vinnier6
i think your over thinking the process...put the wax/polish on and take it off...one section at a time...by the time it takes you to finish putting a coat on a fender or hood or whatever section your working on its time to take it off...
#5
Originally Posted by GTSX-05
I agree, I let it normally settle for about ten minutes between coats, I have PWP, I know what you mean it’s hard to tell when the wax has hazed over, especially with light coats of wax which are recommended.
#7
On my old car, which was pearl white, i used to get the car wet again. I would use the hose, and just saturate all areas of the paint. Normally the residual stuff would show its face then. I would dry around those areas quickly to mark them off, and then remove all the residual product on the car. I dont know if this is always a good idea, as some waxes/polishes recommend that no water is involved, and if there is a good reason for this aside from reduced effectiveness, i would obviously not reccomend this. I am not product specialist however, so hopefully what ive said is not BAD advice!
Hope it helps
take care
Mark
Hope it helps
take care
Mark
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