Microfiber are they still okay to use?

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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:09 AM
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Microfiber are they still okay to use?

So I went to wash my Microfiber towels and my roommate being helpful threw them in the dryer with a fabric softner. So I was wondering are they still safe to be used on my car? Or should I wash them again or not use them on the paint anymore?

Thanks.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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Rewash in hot water........you'll be fine.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
Rewash in hot water........you'll be fine.
That's just to rid the FS, right? I always wash pretty much everything I own in cool/cold water.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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Hot water is fine.........What kills MF's is dry heat.....as in "cooking" in the dryer. Always remove MF's from dryer while still damp. The fibers are weakened when there is no moisture, and high heat is present.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by exceldetail
Hot water is fine.........What kills MF's is dry heat.....as in "cooking" in the dryer. Always remove MF's from dryer while still damp. The fibers are weakened when there is no moisture, and high heat is present.
Yeah my roommate cooked them in the dryer

So Pat what does the weaken fibers do? It won't scratch my paint right?
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 11:33 AM
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I figured it would just give you some lint (from broken fibers)
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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Along with broken fibers, there is now less cushion or fiber to meet your needs. This results in additional pressure needed, and a less then efficient MF.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:43 PM
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I just learned something today. Thanks, guys.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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Pat, that was some excellent information about drying, I need to tweek my process now!
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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Well on the subject of microfiber, I washed my towels this past weekend and realized that one of the towels was used to apply the vinyl protectant on the dash. I forgot rinse that towel out and washed it with the rest of the towels. Now all of the towels from the wash feel kinda slick. Should I just rewash all the towels to get that slickness off? I'm hoping that they are are not ruined.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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I would have to say yea, and use vinager in the rinse cycle...I always seperate my interior towels from paint only towels..
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Yeah, good idea ro rewash. Dont be afraid to use hot water either. Then add 1/4c vinegar in the rinse.....that will help break up any remaining petroleums the soap didnt.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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Will do. I didn't know that vinegar would do the trick. I was just gonna rewash them when the next batch of towels were ready for a wash. I suppose that would turn more towels slick, lol.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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Patrick, can we just let them air-dry?
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
Patrick, can we just let them air-dry?
You could if you like. Just not in the elements. They may feel a little stiffer from lack of tumbling also.....
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 04:14 AM
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This may help>

Washing Directions (Towels)
Heat acts as a catalyst promoting quicker reactions between chemicals and the soil thereby minimizing dwell time. Warm or hot water helps dissolve grease and oil in soil, agitation or hand rubbing helps pull the soil free. This concentrated aqueous formula is a special blend of surfactants, emulsifiers, chelating agents and water softeners.
• Once you have finished detailing with the towel, allow it to soak in a bucket with a suitable micro fibre detergent. This will make it easier to clean and prolong the life of the towel as any chemicals that could potentially harm the fibres are removed sooner, keep in mind that excessive use of powerful degreasers may eventually damage the fabric.
• Wash / Rinse after using and before you use a different product (i.e. don’t use to remove polish and then apply wax)
• Always wash towels separately from other fabrics using hot water
• Washing your towels on a regular basis without allowing them get too soiled, they will last much longer
• Woolite® is intended for delicate fabrics and fine washables such as lingerie and cashmere sweaters, so it won’t remove polish or car care products
• As a pre-spotter: dilute 1 part concentrates with 3 parts hot water, apply to stain and launder as usual.
• Use hot (120oF) water and add 1-2 ounces to a standard size (8 gallon) load, for larger loads or heavily soiled laundry
• Use a liquid detergent (or a speciality product like Micro-Restore) without softener, bleach, whiteners.
• If possible buy the versions that are perfume and additive free as all these do is chemically coat the fabric and reduce its efficiency.
• Half the washing detergents manufacturers suggested amount is usually sufficient
• During the rinse cycle, add 1-tsb per towel white distilled vinegar to help dissolve detergent and hard water minerals
• Do not use fabric softeners or toss-in sheets, as they deposit chemicals on the fabric that will transfer to whatever you are cleaning or polishing with the towel.
• Drying – air dry or use medium heat in a tumble dryer, by adding plastic Dryer Ball will help plump up the fibres
Do not use fabric softener (most contain silicone that the towel will adsorb and clog the fibres thereby reducing their effectiveness) fabric softeners work by coating the surface of the cloth fibres with a thin layer of chemicals, a towel will also treat the fabric softener as if it was dirt by trying to store the tiny particles of the softener in the towel fibres. This will clog up the fibres and render the towel ineffective.



An extract from one of a series of in-depth detailing articles © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved
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