For as long as I can remember, I have sold and used either a 6.5", 5.5", or the 4" wide pad. (All pads 1.25" thick.) I have become very comfortable using either or, depending on machine, surface area, and other variables. About 70% of the time, I go with the 5.5", 20% the 4" and maybe 10% the 6.6".
No one ever mentions pad thickess. Ive seen pads 1" thick which I thought were garbage, and Ive seen pads 2" thick which Im willing to try out. Im just not sure on what the benefits of 2 inches are.
Any comments? Ive always felt 1.25" was perfect, maybe Im wrong?!

 

i like the 5.5" pads best...easiest to control and they spin faster.....

 

I'm going to guess that the thicker pads will have less give but it also means that you could put more weight into them. I don't think I've ever used a 2" thick pad before.

 

im prettty new to this business, but i like the 1.25 which is what i currently have. but i have the 6 in which are too big i think.


actually, while im posting this, pat, i just got my order delivered today, and the orange pad has a few indents from something pressing on it. if i wash it, will it go back to normal?

 

have you used the Flex with these pads? If so what size worked best for you?

 

they will just go back to normal on their own....

 

not to get off topic but since were talking about pads. i dont know if its just me, but it seems like i get faster correction with the non flat pads...maybe its just me

 

I'm not sure what the benefit is to have a 2" pad. Sounds like the biggest difference is going from a 6.5" to a 5.5" or 4" pad. I have never seen them.

 

I use the 5.5" orange Lake Country on my Flex XC for polishing.

 

so you just use orange....you might want to get some white ones for less agressive needs...black and red ones for final steps...nice machine btw...

 

Maybe I didnt clarify. 2" in thickness.

 

1.25 - inch pad thickness was set as an industry standard because it prevented residues and provided insulation from friction heat from reaching the backing plate, either of which could compromise the Velcro® delaminating backing material. There is a safety margin between the edge of the baking material and the foam with this ‘standard’ foam pad. This foam density provides a protective cushion allowing foam compression to maintain constant surface pressure and it also lessens machine vibration.

Like all things related to tools, pad thickness comes down to personal preference. I should also state that a 7/8th- inch thickness foam has it backing material flush with the edge of the pad, while the 1.25-inch has a safety margin between the edge of the baking material and the foam, there is also has a cost saving on the 7/8 foam


For more information see article # 24 “Foam Pads” DetailingWiki a series of informative, unbiased articles dedicated to automotive detailing.

 

while everyone's talking pads, has anyone's tried the CCS's from LC. They seem to absorb a lot of polish for me. Anyone notice this too? Or do all pads absorb a lot of polish.

 

the ccs pads are about all you can find anymore from lc...i like them they seem to work just as good as anything else...

 

Actually, LC still does sell their flat pads and VC pads. You just have to look in the right places.

 

Priming / Seasoning a foam pad - if you were to apply polish to a body panel, and then place an LC CCS pad on the surface and turn the machine on, it would be very difficult to control. This is due to most of the pad being "dry". To prime (or season) a pad, lightly mist it with distilled water, slightly raise the back of the machine so you are working with the top 1/3 of the pad. After polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated with product and actually become softer from heat build-up(seasoned). At this point, you can safely transition from a tilted up to a flat polishing position. Every time you put a fresh CCS pad on your machine you should prime and then season it for a minute or two before "flat" polishing. The added benfit of this is the foam absorbs less product.

 

Hm, I'll try that next time. But you don't put any product on the pad when you prime it, just the distilled water?? I would think this might cause some marring, especially if you're using a orange pad or something.

 

The 4", 5.5", and 6.5" Erasures are all flat. The rounded shoulders are nearly completed with just the 5.5" white and yellow pads needing replacing.
As for the CCS technology, I didnt buy into it. My main arguement was how do you break the polish down at an even rate if those pockets contain "fresh" polish?
Jon, i find it nearly impossible to use just an outside perimeter of any pad on a PC. Reason being, and it seems to defy the laws of nature, but all the liquid products being used, migrate to the center eventually. However, great tip about using distilled water. I on the other hand have more QD available then distilled water, lol.
As for correction abilities, it always appeared to me that the more pad contact, the faster or more thorough, the correction. Another thing regarding the VC pads I didnt buy into. I mean the PC works more efficient when your at least at 90% contact (on flat surfaces) . I understand we all need to use less then 30% pad on certain areas, but thats not really avoidable.

 

Interesting topic Patrick. I also don't buy too much into the CCS technology but I like the foam consistency and durability of the LC pads in general.

I do the following when I first start using a pad:

1. I place four dime sized dots of product 0.5"-1" from the edge of the pad forming four coners of a square.
2. I then dab the pad on the paint covering the entire 18"-24" square area that will be polished.
3. I then manually spread the product over the entire 18"-24" square area.
4. Next, I begin to polish the 18"-24" square area.
5. Finally, after polishing, I use only 2 dime sized dots for the next areas and repeat the steps.
6. Once I notice the pad getting too saturated I will get a new pad. This usually happens after completing half the car.

 

^^ when I start to use a pad, I do what SJ describes, but it seems like the product disappears from the paint after the first pass. And being a noob at this, I add product, because I'm afraid of marring the surface if the surface is dry. any suggestions?

 

Just practice more and you'll get used to it Andrew! Believe in yourself and the machine!

 

Well I would certainly rather have you add too much then too little if your just starting. Worst case scenario is you have too much product to polish with, and too much to remove. On the contrary, you could mar the surface with too little lubrication. After a few panels, you WILL find a happy median to work with. Like Denzil said, just trust yourself, you will be fine. SJ hit it on the head also......good recommendations.