Leather seat Care
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7
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Leather seat Care
I'm just taking my first shot at treating the leather seats in my 2006 TL. I've picked up the Connolly(Bentley) Hide Food. Any veterans out there using this product? Any tips to keeping it out of the perforated leather sections of the seats? Is this stuff worth the price premium or is there better stuff available? Thanks in advance for any advice.
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 18
From: Florida / England
Using Foam to clean leather surfaces
Foam is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains on leather surfaces (including Nubuck, brushed aniline suede and perforated leathers). Always pre-test the product on a hidden area.
The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent materials. Do not allow to dry as it can leave spot marks. For heavily soiled areas, or where the leather has become ingrained such as in creases in the leather, a soft brush can be used to agitate and loosen the dirt.
These steps may be all you need to clean these surface but if it still appears stained, you can try adding a small amount of white vinegar to a soft washcloth and gently buff the surface.
Be sure to do your patch test first. Foaming action makes it safe for heated seats and perforated leather surfaces. For rally stubborn stains; clean the surface with 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover (do not saturate) it removes oil, grease, ink, berry juice, wine and blood. It contains no soaps, detergents, phosphates, nitrates, caustics, toxic organics, enzymes or volatile organic chemicals (Sonax Leather Foam)
Foam is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains on leather surfaces (including Nubuck, brushed aniline suede and perforated leathers). Always pre-test the product on a hidden area.
The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent materials. Do not allow to dry as it can leave spot marks. For heavily soiled areas, or where the leather has become ingrained such as in creases in the leather, a soft brush can be used to agitate and loosen the dirt.
These steps may be all you need to clean these surface but if it still appears stained, you can try adding a small amount of white vinegar to a soft washcloth and gently buff the surface.
Be sure to do your patch test first. Foaming action makes it safe for heated seats and perforated leather surfaces. For rally stubborn stains; clean the surface with 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover (do not saturate) it removes oil, grease, ink, berry juice, wine and blood. It contains no soaps, detergents, phosphates, nitrates, caustics, toxic organics, enzymes or volatile organic chemicals (Sonax Leather Foam)
Suzuka Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,424
Likes: 294
From: Trail BC CanaDUH
Have a read of this thread ... https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/how-prevent-inevitable-seat-tear-771818/ A lot of this was just covered. And the product might no be ideal for coated leather.
The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather used in the vehicle and / or finish applied (natural, pigmented, vinyl, urethane coated, and etc) as the methodologies are very specific for each type of leather and/or finish applied. Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, the hide is then has a pigmentation coating (a water-based paint) to ensure a uniform colour. By-cast hides are further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.
Leather Finishes
Leather is a natural product, with a pH of 4.0 and comes from animal (bovine0 hides, which have been chemically processed (tanned) to preserve them. A properly tanned hide (or skin) creates strong, flexible material; resistant to decay. Most leather is tanned cow hide, which are laterally split, rendering an upper (Aniline) and lower cut (By-cast).
The majority (95% + ) of automotive upholstery is by-cast polyurethane covered leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, by-cast will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing. The upper portion is the top-grain, or Aniline, the lower portion is the split or by-cast. This cutting process creates different faces to the leather. The outside face of the top grain shows the natural grain characteristics, but is otherwise smooth, whereas, the underside appears as unfinished or suede
Myth buster - many leather products market themselves on how they feed leather. In fact your car's leather seats are first coated with a very fine emulsion to give them the desired colour and then a clear coat. So for best longevity you should be keeping that coating as well protected as possible. These same companies would also have you believe you should feed your vehicles polyurathane upholstery or the car's urethane paint finish with protein, collagen, or exotic oils...
Credit TOGWT
The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather used in the vehicle and / or finish applied (natural, pigmented, vinyl, urethane coated, and etc) as the methodologies are very specific for each type of leather and/or finish applied. Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, the hide is then has a pigmentation coating (a water-based paint) to ensure a uniform colour. By-cast hides are further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.
Leather Finishes
Leather is a natural product, with a pH of 4.0 and comes from animal (bovine0 hides, which have been chemically processed (tanned) to preserve them. A properly tanned hide (or skin) creates strong, flexible material; resistant to decay. Most leather is tanned cow hide, which are laterally split, rendering an upper (Aniline) and lower cut (By-cast).
The majority (95% + ) of automotive upholstery is by-cast polyurethane covered leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, by-cast will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing. The upper portion is the top-grain, or Aniline, the lower portion is the split or by-cast. This cutting process creates different faces to the leather. The outside face of the top grain shows the natural grain characteristics, but is otherwise smooth, whereas, the underside appears as unfinished or suede
Myth buster - many leather products market themselves on how they feed leather. In fact your car's leather seats are first coated with a very fine emulsion to give them the desired colour and then a clear coat. So for best longevity you should be keeping that coating as well protected as possible. These same companies would also have you believe you should feed your vehicles polyurathane upholstery or the car's urethane paint finish with protein, collagen, or exotic oils...
Credit TOGWT
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