Crazy Bimmer

So i went ahead and tried to wetsand since the E24 had a really bad clear coat job done to it. Only thing i could find locally was 1500 grit 3m sandpaper. Good is news is that it seems to work but takes a LONG time. Maybe i need to move up to 2000 grit?

Needs to be polished more also. All i had was the PC with yellow pad and Menzera Final Polish. But the results came out decent i think. Hood is untouched, front was wetsanded. Might work better if i tried a compound first then went to the FP. Anywho, this was just my trial run since i needed more towels. Will try to work on it more over the weekend.

csmeance

looking much better

exceldetail

1500 is awful strong for starters. You can go all the way up to 3k if you want. Give it a shot with some 2k.......Looks great though, but lets keep CC removal to a minimal!

Bambo2888

Wow, that looks 100% better. I actually had to do this and still have a little bit more that needs to be sanded out from when i got it repainted.

In regards to the time engagement, if you move up to 2000 grit, it will actually take you longer because more grit means a finer paper. I'm not sure if that's what you were trying to get at, but either way, even if it takes a long time, its well worth it for the results. Just remember, you only have to do it once, so might as well spend some time on it.

When I finished up my section, I went to an XMT3/Yellow LC combo and it removed all of the marks after two coats. I then finished the polishing with an XMT2/orange combo and it was LSP ready.

As a side note, be VERY careful with the paper. It will dig through the clear and into the paint before you even realize. I would guess that you experienced with wetsanding based on your results, but I figured I would mention that anyway.

What is your method, by the way? Do you keep running water on it, use dawn as a lube, whats your secret?

exceldetail

Definetely, thats why i was recomending the 2k as a starting point.....One thing with wetsanding is dont be in a hurry. Just sand until the surface is hazy, then stop! Then compound/polish out.......and seal 'er up!

Crazy Bimmer

Well guys keep in mind that this clear coat is thick. Its not the original clear.

The owner sprayed another layer of clear coat over the factory one. So its super thick and even has drip marks all over the car.

I stay away from all the edges though since they dont look like they got much extra clear coat when they sprayed it.

Main reason why i didnt start with 2k, was that i couldnt find it anywhere locally. Which basically why this was my trial run to see how it would come out.

Crazy Bimmer

I keep running water on it. Enough to where it just glides, kinda like claying the car.

Maybe im using too much water, is that possible?

Also, i let the paper soak in the bucket of water for an hour.

Bambo2888

Nah, you can't have too much water. I might suggest though, to prevent any further marring, perhaps add a little DAWN to the mixture for extra lube, the soap will provide the slickness needed to take the very least amount of clear coat off (less friction, less abrasion, based all on pressure). This should also give you a little better control, at least it did for me.

steve9207

Hey everyone, bringing back an old thread to ask a question....

So, when wetsanding (I'm using the Quixx system), people have suggested adding Dawn to the water. Does it have to be Dawn? Or just a dishwashing soap? Also, I'm glad I read this, it appears as though you're supposed to soak the sandpaper first? Does anyone have any good links to a "Wetsanding How To"?

Thanks,
Steve

TOGWT

http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...r-sanding.html

steve9207

^^^

Thanks TOGWT, appreciate it