I washed, waxed...have some questions
08-10-2006, 09:22 PM
#1
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I washed, waxed...have some questions
I recently washed, and waxed my car. I was using the claybar, but it fell on the ground. I continued with the waxing job because the car is very new, and ive been washing it 2x a week myself, so i figured it was no big deal....i think it came out alright 
http://i3.tinypic.com/2447ajk.jpg
however, now that i applied 1 coat of wax....how do i go about re-washing the car? I want to wash it again in a few days...and when do i wax again?Can i wax after my next wash? Or After a month? Do i have to re-strip the wax, then claybar? Im a bit confused....
Thanks in advance
-Ron
http://i3.tinypic.com/2447ajk.jpg
however, now that i applied 1 coat of wax....how do i go about re-washing the car? I want to wash it again in a few days...and when do i wax again?Can i wax after my next wash? Or After a month? Do i have to re-strip the wax, then claybar? Im a bit confused....
Thanks in advance
-Ron
08-10-2006, 09:26 PM
#2
Nice car. Are you using the WHOLE claybar? You should break it into smaller pieces...
Don't wax again if the car doesn't seem dirty... If you claybar the car, you will strip the wax so you should always rewax the car if you're claybaring. In general, I wouldn't rewax the car without stripping off the old wax. This also depends on what type of wax you're using, and if it's meant to be layered or not.
Don't wax again if the car doesn't seem dirty... If you claybar the car, you will strip the wax so you should always rewax the car if you're claybaring. In general, I wouldn't rewax the car without stripping off the old wax. This also depends on what type of wax you're using, and if it's meant to be layered or not.
08-10-2006, 09:37 PM
#3
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yea i was using the whole bar...guess i wont next time ...heh... umm... i used carnuba wax by mothers that came with the claybar...i also have BLITZ Carnuba wax, does not mention anything about layering.........
So ill just do my normal washes, then next month, clay bar-and re-wax, sound good?
Thanks!
So ill just do my normal washes, then next month, clay bar-and re-wax, sound good?
Thanks!
08-10-2006, 09:39 PM
#4
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Although the general rule is to apply fresh layers of wax after stripping the old wax, it should be okay for you to reapply another layer of wax after you give if a wash in a few days (assuming you clayed thoroughly).
08-10-2006, 09:41 PM
#5
Team Owner
Claying removes surface contaminants imbeded in the paint that the wash didn't get. Once clayed and waxed you should be fairly well protected. Just wash and wax next time.
08-11-2006, 12:11 AM
#7
Former Sponsor
Why re-clay? just wash and wax...........If you bought the Mothers Cal Clay bar system, you may be using the cleaner-wax, which isnt durable. Go for the one Grand Blitz!!
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08-11-2006, 11:01 AM
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yea, it is cleaner wax i believe excel . I need to re-clay becuase i didnt really clay in the 1st place...i dropped it on the floor, and unforntunately, it was the whole bar. I have more on order...so im going to have to re-do the process....
08-11-2006, 11:05 AM
#9
Team Owner
RMATIC09,
If you haven't re-molded the bar yet you can use a knife to cut off the surfaces that made contact with the ground and reuse the fresh portion of the clay bar left over.
If you haven't re-molded the bar yet you can use a knife to cut off the surfaces that made contact with the ground and reuse the fresh portion of the clay bar left over.
08-11-2006, 11:59 AM
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See, thats what i was thinking to do....i was looking at the bar, and im like "why do i have to chuck this whole thing?" i was seriously debating cutting it in half, but the instructions said "THROW IT OUT" , so i did not want to risk it.
Its not a big deal, i have one, should be here by the end of the week. i dont plan on doing another wax for 2 more weeks....
Whats the rule of thumb for waxing anyways? In terms of duration....
Its not a big deal, i have one, should be here by the end of the week. i dont plan on doing another wax for 2 more weeks....
Whats the rule of thumb for waxing anyways? In terms of duration....
08-11-2006, 12:33 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by RMATIC09
Whats the rule of thumb for waxing anyways? In terms of duration....
08-13-2006, 07:05 PM
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I washed the car, and having the wax on made it that much easier. The water bead off even after a week. There was still dirt on the car, but it was easily removed, the car was very easy to dry.
By washing it, did i remove some of the wax coating? I dried gently as to make sure i did not remove any.....
By washing it, did i remove some of the wax coating? I dried gently as to make sure i did not remove any.....
08-13-2006, 09:02 PM
#15
Originally Posted by RMATIC09
I washed the car, and having the wax on made it that much easier. The water bead off even after a week. There was still dirt on the car, but it was easily removed, the car was very easy to dry.
By washing it, did i remove some of the wax coating? I dried gently as to make sure i did not remove any.....
By washing it, did i remove some of the wax coating? I dried gently as to make sure i did not remove any.....
I use a QD after every wash to prolong the inital layer of protection and usually apply a coat of wax in 6-8 weeks. Eventually, the protection will breakdown and will not bead or have the slickness compared to a fresh coat. Keep in mind there are factors involved like exposure to elements and weather, the type of wax used.
Water Beading and Sheeting... as a Measure of Durability
Almost all polishes, waxes, etc. bead water initially. As they are removed, breakdown or dissipated by washing, exposure to sunlight and heat, expansion and contraction, abrasion, abrasion from pollen and other pollutants, the water beading is diminished. This is due to the reduction in surface tension of the polish or wax once it is removed or breaks down.
If the surface has any protection when there is no water beading is the subject of much controversy. Especially when the polish or wax exhibits good water beading immediately after the initial application. If there is any protection left, how would one know? There are no scientific tests to my knowledge that can determine this. Most consumers and especially wax/polish manufacturers use the reduction in the height, contact angle and diameter of water beading as a gauge to know when to re-apply polish/wax for continued protection.
If a polish/wax gives water beading initially but then stops beading after washing, part of the polish formula has been removed. If this happens, is there any protection left???? Was the chemical or film that caused the water beading also the protection????
If a manufacturer claims that their polish/wax will bead water initially and then magically change to sheeting... I say impossible!!!! Let them prove that the polish/wax film protection initially applied is still there...
Until a specific test is developed and not some fake, razzle-dazzle test, these questions will remain unanswered and I will continue to use water beading, (height, contact angle and diameter) as a major factor in gauging a polish/wax protection.
P.S. Please remember that healthy paint will bead water without any polish/wax applied. This confuses many people to believe a polish/wax is lasting longer than they think.
To test your polish/wax, you must measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) without any polish/wax applied. Next, measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) within 24 hours after initially applying your polish/wax. This is your starting point. This will also be the gauge for determining the water beading (longevity, duration and changes) for that specific product. As the water beads start to diminish (get wider and shallower and loses contact angle), the polish/wax and its film protection factor is going away. When the water beading is the same as before you apply your product, the polish/wax and its protection are gone.
Almost all polishes, waxes, etc. bead water initially. As they are removed, breakdown or dissipated by washing, exposure to sunlight and heat, expansion and contraction, abrasion, abrasion from pollen and other pollutants, the water beading is diminished. This is due to the reduction in surface tension of the polish or wax once it is removed or breaks down.
If the surface has any protection when there is no water beading is the subject of much controversy. Especially when the polish or wax exhibits good water beading immediately after the initial application. If there is any protection left, how would one know? There are no scientific tests to my knowledge that can determine this. Most consumers and especially wax/polish manufacturers use the reduction in the height, contact angle and diameter of water beading as a gauge to know when to re-apply polish/wax for continued protection.
If a polish/wax gives water beading initially but then stops beading after washing, part of the polish formula has been removed. If this happens, is there any protection left???? Was the chemical or film that caused the water beading also the protection????
If a manufacturer claims that their polish/wax will bead water initially and then magically change to sheeting... I say impossible!!!! Let them prove that the polish/wax film protection initially applied is still there...
Until a specific test is developed and not some fake, razzle-dazzle test, these questions will remain unanswered and I will continue to use water beading, (height, contact angle and diameter) as a major factor in gauging a polish/wax protection.
P.S. Please remember that healthy paint will bead water without any polish/wax applied. This confuses many people to believe a polish/wax is lasting longer than they think.
To test your polish/wax, you must measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) without any polish/wax applied. Next, measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) within 24 hours after initially applying your polish/wax. This is your starting point. This will also be the gauge for determining the water beading (longevity, duration and changes) for that specific product. As the water beads start to diminish (get wider and shallower and loses contact angle), the polish/wax and its film protection factor is going away. When the water beading is the same as before you apply your product, the polish/wax and its protection are gone.
08-13-2006, 09:27 PM
#16
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by RMATIC09
I washed the car, and having the wax on made it that much easier. The water bead off even after a week. There was still dirt on the car, but it was easily removed, the car was very easy to dry.
By washing it, did i remove some of the wax coating? I dried gently as to make sure i did not remove any.....
By washing it, did i remove some of the wax coating? I dried gently as to make sure i did not remove any.....
or
or
After every wash, spray while drying.........You'll be amazed at the difference these products actually make.
You'll be one happy camper!
08-13-2006, 10:27 PM
#17
Needs more Lemon Pledge
OK, new rule:
If you are going to post a pic of a beautiful car with someone in/on it......It better be a hot girl!
If you are going to post a pic of a beautiful car with someone in/on it......It better be a hot girl!
08-13-2006, 11:18 PM
#18
Originally Posted by stogie1020
OK, new rule:
If you are going to post a pic of a beautiful car with someone in/on it......It better be a hot girl!
If you are going to post a pic of a beautiful car with someone in/on it......It better be a hot girl!
08-14-2006, 12:46 PM
#23
Originally Posted by RMATIC09
at the pics.... thanks for the tip...ill pick that product up.*edit* excel where is your store link?
08-15-2006, 10:37 PM
#24
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So i re-did the process about 1.5 weeks later.
I washed the whole car, head to toe on sunday, and then again on monday. After the wash on monday i claybared the whole thing for the most part. After that, i used Blitza Wax.
Instructions said : rub wax all over car evenly and let sit till a frost about 15 minutes. So i did just that, and the wax could be seen all over the car, and was alot stiffer to remove.
I buffed it all off orderly. Is that suppose to happen? My other directions told me to apply by 2x2 ft sections , then buff off after......
I just waxed the whole car before doing anything else...thought i may be doing something wrong?
I washed the whole car, head to toe on sunday, and then again on monday. After the wash on monday i claybared the whole thing for the most part. After that, i used Blitza Wax.
Instructions said : rub wax all over car evenly and let sit till a frost about 15 minutes. So i did just that, and the wax could be seen all over the car, and was alot stiffer to remove.
I buffed it all off orderly. Is that suppose to happen? My other directions told me to apply by 2x2 ft sections , then buff off after......
I just waxed the whole car before doing anything else...thought i may be doing something wrong?
08-16-2006, 08:05 AM
#25
Moderator Alumnus
Personally I can't stand taking the time to wax. The best wax out there is the professional series of Zymol (you can't but it in stores, you can find it online). But even that wax only lasts 4-6 weeks if you park in the sun. Time vs. $$ I'd choose another route; a polymer. Unless you have a lot of time on your hands and enjoy waxing...
08-16-2006, 03:36 PM
#26
Team Owner
Originally Posted by RMATIC09
So i re-did the process about 1.5 weeks later.
I washed the whole car, head to toe on sunday, and then again on monday. After the wash on monday i claybared the whole thing for the most part. After that, i used Blitza Wax.
Instructions said : rub wax all over car evenly and let sit till a frost about 15 minutes. So i did just that, and the wax could be seen all over the car, and was alot stiffer to remove.
I buffed it all off orderly. Is that suppose to happen? My other directions told me to apply by 2x2 ft sections , then buff off after......
I just waxed the whole car before doing anything else...thought i may be doing something wrong?
I washed the whole car, head to toe on sunday, and then again on monday. After the wash on monday i claybared the whole thing for the most part. After that, i used Blitza Wax.
Instructions said : rub wax all over car evenly and let sit till a frost about 15 minutes. So i did just that, and the wax could be seen all over the car, and was alot stiffer to remove.
I buffed it all off orderly. Is that suppose to happen? My other directions told me to apply by 2x2 ft sections , then buff off after......
I just waxed the whole car before doing anything else...thought i may be doing something wrong?
08-16-2006, 09:21 PM
#27
Needs more Lemon Pledge
OK, shameless pull to 350 posts....
08-17-2006, 11:58 AM
#28
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It glistens, but sadly, my camera sucks, and my brother was not around for pics..but next time i will def. do it.
My friends father was impressed, that im detailing his porsche today
!!!, just wash, claybar, and wax...no abrasives....
My friends father was impressed, that im detailing his porsche today
!!!, just wash, claybar, and wax...no abrasives....
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