On Saturday, I put pad to paint and made use of my new PC for the first time.

After wash/dry/tape off trim, here is a PRE-Polish shot: (inside, 1000W halogen)




And the same panel after Optimum on a White Sonus pad, then Natty's Blue (all by PC): (outside, partly cloudy)



Truthfully, it took me much longer to polish, because I had white polish pads, and probably should have been using an orange pad, but now I know, and knowing is half the battle!

On a side note, while I am VERY happy with the results from the Optimum polish, it was VERY difficult to remove the residual, broken down polish due to the high oil content.

I got VERY frustrated, a few times, with the difficulty in removing the oily residue. Was I working it too long or not enough, or is this normal. It was bad enough to make want to try a different polish next time. Thoughts?

 

Wow, one of Optimums best attributes is the minimal effort needed to remove it!
I can guarantee you were using too much if you were having removal issues. I would also recommend doing two panels, or maybe even 1/2 the car before removal. Allow some of those oils to evaporate out. Allows for easier removal. Hang in there, you'll get it down in due time!
Remember, a little Optimum goes a long way......

 

How was the Natty's?

 

I like it. I like the way it looks on the black, but I am going to put another layer on soon to see what that looks like. Ultimately, I am going to do the AIO/SG/IW845, THEN top with the Nattys for appearance. Only better thing I could do IMHO would be to laminate my car...

 

looks good.. maybe i should invest in a pc.

 

What do you mean-Maybe

 

Since this was the first time I had used a PC, it took a long time to do the whole car. Next time, with an orange pad, and no fear of applying too much pressure, using the right amount of polish, etc... it will go much faster. Plus, I love using the PC to apply and remove wax/sealant! Takes about 15 minutes from start to finish.

Patrick, I used the "P2 Grey 6.75 Finishing Pad (Level-1)" to apply Natty's Blue. Is there a better choice of pad, or is this one OK?

 

Perfect choice, just use enough to see your process and thats all! I bet it looks awesome in person......

 

I'm beginning to think I should have put a PC on my Christmas wish list.

 

I just noticed last night that my new '06 has tiny scratches and very minor swirl marks. A PC isn't necessary for getting these small scratches out, all I'll really need to do is put some Zaino PC Fusion on the problem spot and buff them out. There's no need to do the entire car.... right? Why put abrasives on perfectly good paint?

 

Whatever you do, do it to the entire car. Theres nothing like having 1 or two perfect panels on a car, re-emphasized by swirls on other panels....Im not familiar with Zaino, just one of those products I never cared for due to all the hype ive seen on it. But at a minimum, clean everything, then fill the areas with whatever Zaino calls there glaze, and seal away......

 

Actually, polishing will do more than just remove minor imperfections. The process will also result in greater reflectivity and gloss. Call it paint rejuvenation. Z-PC was designed for use with a PC, hence the name Z-PC Dual Action Paint Cleaner Swirl Remover. As with most abrasive polishes, it can also be hand applied and I believe there are instructions on the Zaino site. But to get the full benefit of an abrasive, machine application is recommended. Removing imperfections by hand is a very time consuming and tiresome task. One may not be able to apply the same movement and pressure to the problem areas and may create other problems like blotching and hazing. The PC negates the majority of those problems giving you better and more consistent results, not to mention saving time and energy.

BTW, not saying you should do it this way or that way, just some insight on the advantages of a PC ....

 

As on e who tried using Scratch-X by hand to do some minor swirl removal, I could not imagine how hard it would have been to do the entire car by hand. Honestly, I am SO glad I bought a PC and used it to polish/apply wax/remove wax. Now, if only it would mask off the car for me.....

Truly, the level of consistency is astounding. I would always have much better buffing by hand on the first few panels than the last few due to fatigue, boredom, etc... Now, nice and even.

 

Stogie, I may be pm'ing you for some newbie tips. I'm in the same boat. NHB car and just got a PC. Just waiting on the pads.

Patrick, you did ship an order out to Kansas City/Fairway, KS right?

If so, that means my family picked up on my Christmas wish list.. if not, I'll be in contact after the New Years

PS. Where'd you get the tape and what kind?

 

Glad it worked well for you, I can't wait to get mine after the new year

 

There are some great "using a PC" videos on several detailing sites and vendor sites that I looked at before using it. Can't remember where they were but I will try and find them and post here.

I will say, though, to ask here in the forums exactly how much of each specific product to use per body panel, as I think Patrick was right in stating that I probably used WAY too much Optimum polish for each panel. I had almost a complete ring around the pad, half an inch in from the edge!

As far as the tape, I used blue painter's tape, and found that for the most part, it came off easily. What residue was left behind came off fairly easily. While taping was a big pain, it was definitely the way to go for me. I may even do a better job of it next time.

 

Studville,

Here are several videos I watched before starting:

[http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/80223-using-porter-cable-7424-car-polisher.html

http://www.auto-geek.net/video/light...l_removal.html

http://www.auto-geek.net/video/Inter...l_removal.html

http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/video/

The first is not a video, but had great info, and the last three are good videos.

MODS: Maybe a sticky with many of the good PC instructional video links for the wash and wax section? I am sure there are more than I have here.

 

The video says to work the polish in until "broken down". Can someone please explain what that specifically means? Some could interpret that as "grind it in till it's a dry powder"!! LOL

 

NEVER NEVER NEVER polish till it's dry!! Sounds like you were just kidding. Breaking down the diminishing abraisives of whatever brand you use usually means polishing an area for a few passes (1 x lateral, 1 x verticle, 1 x diagonal buffing pattern) till the polish turns sort of clear (vaseline like). This is the case when using Meguiars #80.

 

When a polish is "broken down", it is at a point where a light film product is left but not completely dry. It usually takes a couple of passes as Sweet Jazz described to get to that point. Check out the pictures from the Paint Care and Detailing site titled Polish Break Down Stages and it should give you an idea what it would look like. Hopefully, a few of the other regulars will provide a more definitive answer to assist you.

 

i woke up to receive this http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html Can't wait to try it out! Now its time to start reading and making sure i have the right pads and what not and i need to start making decisions on waxes and polishes..

 

Aplpied second coat of Natty's Blue today by PC, removed with PC and MF bonnet, then MF cotton terry bonnet, then MF towel for final go-over. It was dark by the time I was done, but I still managed to get a pic. I need a better camera...

anyway: (I know, dress those tires!)

 

i cant wait to get started!

 

May I offer a recommendation? Do not even bother with the side handle. Don't install it, don't use it. Trust me. I am probably the only person who actually required medical attention after using a PC...

What kind of polish you going to use?

Remember to take before/after pics!!