tdottsx

i have a white pearl TSX and i heard that sum times when u clay white cars it leaves a slight yellow tint to the paint, is this true?

GTSX-05

iTrader: (1)

I have clay'd my TSX numerous times... no yellow tint here.

tdottsx

sweet! and ur's is white i assume?

GTSX-05

iTrader: (1)

yup... I give it a good clay bar after every winter followed by a full detail.

exceldetail

bah, nonsense...Clay away.....

jlukja

+ 1

PWP TSX

Hawhyen51

Where or from whom did you hear about this?

joerockt

I think where he may have heard this is that on white cars that have been neglected, small rust spots will form. The combo of claying and lubricant cause the rust to rest in the lube, which if you let it dry, can stick to the surface and can look like brown/yellow streaks. I've seen this before and the only way to get rid of it is with a good polishing or more claying...

But, if you generally take car of your car, its unlikely the rust will form.

Hawhyen51

Thanks Joe

AcuraTL06Racer

How much is it for a clay kit

ChrisQ1980

check out the Exceldetail site.

GTSX-05

iTrader: (1)

To the OP, clay'd a white 300C this weekend covered with orange rust spots and road debris;



End results + some coats of polish and wax;

Hawhyen51

At your local auto parts store, it's about $15 - $20 for Mothers or Megs kit and includes a 4 oz bar and lube. Other option is to order online as mentioned above.

joerockt

Looks great. Save your arm next time and get yourself a decon kit like Valueguard's ABC. The B stage makes short work of rust and allows you to more easily remove with a clay bar.

TOGWT

Paint Decontamination:
Ferrous oxide micro-sized particles (i.e. brake dust, etc) when they come into contact with moisture will form rust.
Detailer’s clay will remove most but not all of the iron particulate that is the cause of the rust "blooming", to for a corrosion decontamination system to be effective requires the complete removal of all particulates and the corrosive acids they generate that have penetrated the paint's resin system.

Water acts as an electrolyte, temperature and ozone (air) create a corrosive chemical reaction; corrosion is caused allowing current to flow between these areas. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust) with the iron particles forming a conduit, enabling the rust to compromise the paint system.

The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, penetrating and spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms) This is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces (especially white)

This system (Auto International A B C Decontamination System) safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination that collects on a painted finish which includes; Heavy deposits of ferrous oxide Industrial fallout (IFO), Rail Dust, Acid Rain, Hard Water Spots, Tar, Bird Droppings, Waxes/Silicones, Oxidation, Adhesive Residue, Road Grime Rust Stains. Automotive International's ABC System is OEM compliant and used internationally by all the major Automobile companies

I would strongly recommend an acid neutralizing wash followed by a corrosion inhibitor on an annual or semi-annual basis. You will find that a proper acid neutralizing wash opens the paint fissures (pores) and will release most of the imbedded ferrous oxide deposits and the remainder comes off very easily by clay encapsulation. These systems will produce a better finish on the paint surface than is possible with detailer’s clay alone and is also the only solution that addresses acid rain, industrial pollutants, and tree sap etching as well as other polyurethane clear coat concerns

A three step neutralization and wash system comprises;
(a) Acid Neutralizer
(b) Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailer’s clay)
(c) a pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination (i.e. rust) that collects on a painted finish which includes, industrial fallout (IFO), rail dust, acid rain, hard water spots, road tar, bird excrement, waxes/silicones, oxidation, adhesive residue, road grime and rust stains introduced via road salt, ferrous metal deposits.
Auto International - (http://www.autopoint.com)
(See also Acid Rain, Industrial Fallout (IFO) Corrosion, Decontamination, Reactivity)

Jesstzn

Auto Int link is bad .. ^^^^^

How much does this AutoInt 3 step cost and where do you buy it?

joerockt

Link:

http://www.autoint.com/autostore/pc/...tSellers_P.asp

Not sure why, but they use to sell this in a package of 3, 1 gallon bottles. Now its all broke up for some reason. Acid Neutralizer is A, Alkaline Neutralizer is B and the Detail Wash is C.

Maybe give them a call to get a combo deal?

Its a great system for cars you work on that have been seriously neglected.

dom

So those steps should be used in conjunction with a clay bar or in place of?

joerockt

In conjunction. Step B loosens up the rust so that when you clay its much easier to remove.

dom

Thanks. My PWP has quite a bit of rust spots. Thankfully not nearly as bad as that 300 pic.

joerockt

Too bad you're not closer I've got at least 3/4's of each bottle left...A gallon takes a long time to go through

Jesstzn

I guess part of my gist was TOGWTs cut and pastes are in a lot of cases not feasable to a total newbie who is asking a very basic question about claying a car.

Then throw out information on a system that is difficult for the weekender to obtain .. don't tell him where to get it and suggest something geared to the Pro higher volume detailer and eat up $75 & dollars or so.

GTSX-05

iTrader: (1)

The process that I used for the 300C, though time consuming worked for me. I clayed the whole vehicle to remove light rust spots, and road debris, followed by Optimum Compound (orange), Optimum Polish (white), Four Star UPP (red).

though time consuming some of the other methods described seem to make a lot more sense.

joerockt

Yea, that B stage it pretty potent stuff, but will save you lots of time. You need to wear rubber gloves with it. In fact, the first time I used it, I thought it still needed to be on the surface and by the time I was done claying the hood and a few side panels, the clay was already turning into mush.

joerockt

Yea, that's his MO. We're used to it I guess

rex.

this intrigues me.. so you clay after ABC.. or during B?

joerockt

Yea, after the whole process. However, to save some time, you can clay during B, but remember its going to chew up your clay. If you have a car that's heavily contaminated, its best to clay while the B is dwelling.

tdottsx

i am using the mothers clay kit, and they clay bar is yellow, is this a good clay kit? that also must be why some people say it leaves a yellowish colour on the paint??

joerockt

Whoever said that, their wrong. That kit is just fine...all claybars are just fine...Just make sure you use enough lube.

rex.

damn it's like $80 for all three gallons

joerockt

Yea, I dont know why they dont sell this in smaller quantities.

I'm pretty sure there are other decon systems out there. Take a look on Autopia.org

rex.

yea i checked out a few, but mostly all of the user feedback say that Valuguard's ABC out performs all the others (KF)

El_chamuco

when it comes to claying what clay you guys use?
used mothers and liked it, couldn't belive how slick my car felt. picked up a megs to see how that works.

SupaRookie

I bought a meg's clay kit last week when it was on sale. Looking foward to try claying for the 1st time! (whenever that may be) Any special tips and secret?

TOGWT

My apologies for the link not working, Auto International have been re-working their website.

I regret that the information I provide is too much for you to comprehend, I won't bother you or this this forum in the future.

If you send an e-mail to my PA she will refund any charges I've made to provide detailing information

Regards,
JonM

TOGWT

First let me apologise for providing a hyperlink that did not work, Auto International have recently re-vamped their website. The correct link - Auto International - http://www.autoint.com/autostore/pc...stSellers..P.asp/

I have always tried to find out not just “How it works, but also “Why” it works. With that in mind I probably respond with more detail than some think is necessary. But try to write in a way that helps the reader to understand not only "How" to do something, but "Why" they are doing it.

I’m sorry if the detailing information I provide is too complicated for you to comprehend and apologise to the contributors to this forum for wasting their time and I will refrain from doing so in the future
JonM

Jesstzn

Where the hell did that come from? Who said I can't comprehend it?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I have both and am looking forward to comparing them to see what if either I like more. I too would be interested for any tips on claying other than "use lots of lube" anyone have any good tips?

Jesstzn

Here is a good link

Claying

exceldetail

Have you read the sticky?