Car wash help...I hate hard water
#1
got cgp?
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Car wash help...I hate hard water
I am having both hard water stains on the car itself and on the mirrors. I try to dry the car throughly with microfibered towels but they still continue not to go away.
I tried vinegar and water, a suggestion I saw in another thread for the mirrors, but didn't work well. I will try some of the products mentioned.
I am trying to save up for a soft water...but that probably won't be for another 5 months.
Any other suggestions?
I tried vinegar and water, a suggestion I saw in another thread for the mirrors, but didn't work well. I will try some of the products mentioned.
I am trying to save up for a soft water...but that probably won't be for another 5 months.
Any other suggestions?
Last edited by jwotsx; 04-01-2007 at 09:59 PM.
#2
Several companies make what is known as an "inline water conditioner." Griot's Garage makes such a unit that acts as a water filter and conditioner to soften hard water. It connects directly to your faucet and uses "rocks which act as a crystal filter."
Check out the link, it's an expensive but viable solution:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=37244A
Check out the link, it's an expensive but viable solution:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=37244A
#4
The Old Grey Whistle Test
WATERSTICKS are uniquely designed affordable portable water softeners for your RV, carpet cleaning machine or any other use requiring soft water - www.watersticks.com
#5
they go wooooot wooooot
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try this inline filter, I have the same one and in Boca Raton, FL, the water is like rocks... Inline Water Filter
#6
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by TOGWT
WATERSTICKS are uniquely designed affordable portable water softeners for your RV, carpet cleaning machine or any other use requiring soft water - www.watersticks.com
#7
Just dial 1911
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Originally Posted by jwotsx
I am having both hard water stains on the car itself and on the mirrors. I try to dry the car throughly with microfibered towels but they still continue not to go away.
I tried vinegar and water, a suggestion I saw in another thread for the mirrors, but didn't work well. I will try some of the products mentioned.
I am trying to save up for a soft water...but that probably won't be for another 5 months.
Any other suggestions?
I tried vinegar and water, a suggestion I saw in another thread for the mirrors, but didn't work well. I will try some of the products mentioned.
I am trying to save up for a soft water...but that probably won't be for another 5 months.
Any other suggestions?
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#9
Racer
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i had horrible spots on my glass the first time i washed my tsx. i left the water on the glass as i dried the whole car then finally got to the glass. i tried invisible glass cleaner and mr clean magic erasers (a soln suggested on another forum) to no avail.
a few days later it rained, and all the spots were gone..![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
now i always make sure to dry my glass first.
a few days later it rained, and all the spots were gone..
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
now i always make sure to dry my glass first.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#10
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Water Marks:
The misnomer ‘water spots’ are caused by a moderate to high alkaline or acidic solution, both of which can cause paint discolouration, surface etching (a concave circular mark and pitting) leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro pores in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration, which need to be removed and naturalized as soon as possible.
There are two categories of water spot-
Stage One Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]
Stage Two Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]
a)Surface water spots- (Stage One Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline
If the paint can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately
1a) Removing surface (Stage One Corrosion) –
. Methodology
•Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
•Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)
•Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b) Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
Allow chemical solution sufficient dwell time (5-10 minutes)
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface
•Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface
•Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•If any `water marks' remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)
The misnomer ‘water spots’ are caused by a moderate to high alkaline or acidic solution, both of which can cause paint discolouration, surface etching (a concave circular mark and pitting) leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro pores in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration, which need to be removed and naturalized as soon as possible.
There are two categories of water spot-
Stage One Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]
Stage Two Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]
a)Surface water spots- (Stage One Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline
If the paint can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately
1a) Removing surface (Stage One Corrosion) –
. Methodology
•Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
•Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)
•Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b) Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
Allow chemical solution sufficient dwell time (5-10 minutes)
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface
•Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface
•Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•If any `water marks' remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)
#11
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Nothin' but Da Truth
Several companies make what is known as an "inline water conditioner." Griot's Garage makes such a unit that acts as a water filter and conditioner to soften hard water. It connects directly to your faucet and uses "rocks which act as a crystal filter."
Check out the link, it's an expensive but viable solution:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=37244A
Check out the link, it's an expensive but viable solution:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=37244A
Just out of curiosity,
Isn't the "Mr. Clean" Car Wash with filter designed to do just this- soften the water so there are no spots?
#13
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Originally Posted by Vicman17
Sorry, I meant to say "Mr. Clean Auto Dry" Too late for the edit.
Quick-Fix for water spotting - Use Jet Dry to break the surface tension of the water and to prevent mineral or hard water spots from forming (1- capful per 2-gallons).
Last edited by TOGWT; 04-18-2007 at 03:33 AM.
#14
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by TOGWT
It's formulated with a water softener, the problem with this product is that it leaves a residue on the paint surface.
Quick-Fix for water spotting - Use Jet Dry to break the surface tension of the water and to prevent mineral or hard water spots from forming (1- capful per 2-gallons).
Quick-Fix for water spotting - Use Jet Dry to break the surface tension of the water and to prevent mineral or hard water spots from forming (1- capful per 2-gallons).
Intriguing!
#15
Just dial 1911
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
It's formulated with a water softener, the problem with this product is that it leaves a residue on the paint surface.
Quick-Fix for water spotting - Use Jet Dry to break the surface tension of the water and to prevent mineral or hard water spots from forming (1- capful per 2-gallons).
Quick-Fix for water spotting - Use Jet Dry to break the surface tension of the water and to prevent mineral or hard water spots from forming (1- capful per 2-gallons).
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
So if I put liquid jet dry in a dispenser, that would work right? There are no dissolvants in jet dry is there?
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