TLProspect

I have a 2000 TL that is covered in swirled marks and light, but noticible horizontal scratches that will not come out with Scratch-X or 3M Rubbing Compound, even despite several attempts. There are also blemishes on the hood in the paint from when I purchased the car. I was wondering if I can trust an Auto Paint and Body shop to wet sand the car for me, which they said they can do. How risky is this type of service and how likely is it that the car could either look worse afterwards or that I would see little to no improvement at all?

SK2003TypeS

Before going to a bodyshop, consider taking it to a professional detailer. See if they can handle it. If they say no and you decide to take it to a bodyshop, just make sure it's a shop that you would trust. Most good body shops can handle wet sanding. Check out the other clients. Is the shop working on Porsches, Lambs, etc. ? Or fixing up some 15 year old buick.

SK2003TypeS

Check out this guy. He's extremely knowledgable and does great work. Don't know where in Texas you are, maybe he's close by.

www.scottwax.com
He can be found on the autopia forum as well as a few other detailing sites.

TLProspect

Hi, thanks a lot for the tip, and the link, but unfortunately I live in Houston and it looks like he lives in the Dallas area. I can't seem to find a professional detailer in the yellow pages, I am not sure where to look exactly.

BTW- are there any risk to the wet sand procedure, especially with our soft paint?

SK2003TypeS

Hmm, ok, worth a shot. Not sure how far Houston/Dallas are.

The risk in wetsanding is in the person working on it. Have you thought about trying it yourself ?

WolfpackBill

Did you apply the rubbing compound by hand?? Have you tried buffing it out with a PC with cutting pad using something like 3M Swirl Mark Remover?? I had that problem on my Explorer and after claying and everything, I used the SMR with the cutting pad and the stuff are gone.



This is my Explorer's hood. No swirls at all.

TLProspect

Dallas is about a 4 1/2 hour trip, so it's not particularly convenient. I am not sure about the guy because I have been calling around to various places so I am not sure how to pick a reputable body shop. I am still looking for a full service detailer.

I have been using the products by hand but I was thinking about getting a orbital buffer but I have absolutely no experience with one and really fear either 1) messing up the paint that is notoriously fragile anyway, or 2) buying this expensive machine and materials and not getting the desired effects.

WolfpackBill

The PC and pads are expensive but you have to try very very very hard to screw up the paint. My truck's paint was looking pretty bad, but soon after I started detailing the paint, it looked like brand new. You should definitely try it.

You can get a Porter Cable 7336SP from Lowe's Hardware for $109. Then get a pad kit from CMA for $60. Getting a clay bar from Autozone costs $14 and 3M SMR from Pepboys for $10. Then you can get Maguiar NXT polymer wax for protection is another $14 at Wal-Mart. So for a little over $200, you can use that stuff for many many detailing sessions.

Here's a link to the pads:

http://www.properautocare.com/hipadkitwive.html

Good luck!!!

TLProspect

How many times did you have to buffer the paint to see results and did you have a knowledge of what you were doing before you started? Those pics. you provided were great, you got those results from the buffer? What was the condition of the truck before?

WolfpackBill

I use my buffer everytime I do a major detail. I had no clue about anything about detailing until I started reading and posted at www.autopia.org. These people are the nicest people there. If you have questions, they will definitely answer. My truck's paint was alright looking because of lack of care, like you, swirls and light scratches everywhere. I use to just wash my truck and apply wax probably once a year until I learned many techniques from that site. Heh...that site also got me to use so much money on detailing products. Now the paint doesn't even look like it's a '96. People actually have asked me what year the truck was and were pleasantly surprised when I told them it's a '96.

detailz01

If you are looking at orbital polishers, look at the Cyclo. More expensive but seems to be the choice of professionals and DIY car enthusiasts.

I've use it and have never been able to burn or damage paint with this orbital polisher (which rotary polishers can). Check it out at:
http://detailingdynamics.net/Merchan...tegory_Code=DE

These guys also have their 3 step detailing products and accessories.