Beginner Help
I'll throw my
in here ..
I never apply sealant or wax with the polisher .. a) You waste a lot of sealant priming the pad b) sealant is a bitch to clean out of the pad c) You still need to do a lot of areas by hand because the 5.5" pad won't go in there.
Clay the complete car first. Then I do a wipe with 50/50 IPA & Water to remove the QD residue before polishing.
I don't tape anything at all, If you use the proper amount of polish you don't get it in the gaps. And if you use polished like the Optimum line you have long working time thus no need to gob it on to keep it moist and no splatter.
in here .. I never apply sealant or wax with the polisher .. a) You waste a lot of sealant priming the pad b) sealant is a bitch to clean out of the pad c) You still need to do a lot of areas by hand because the 5.5" pad won't go in there.
Clay the complete car first. Then I do a wipe with 50/50 IPA & Water to remove the QD residue before polishing.
I don't tape anything at all, If you use the proper amount of polish you don't get it in the gaps. And if you use polished like the Optimum line you have long working time thus no need to gob it on to keep it moist and no splatter.
I never use the machine for sealant. And I never tape the whole car there is no need unless you are using a rotary buffer.
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Well started on the TSX tonight after I finished the clay bar. I have to say I am somewhat disappointed in the removal of some scratches again. I am sure my technique isn't perfect but there are still marks on the paint that can't be felt but can be seen that I have not been able to get out with many attempts. I don't know how many attempts is to much.
3x (4-5 passes of polish 2 (stronger polish) and orange pad)
2x (4-5 passes of polish 3 (lighter polish) and white pad)
Now I have not applied wax yet so maybe that is the issue but I thought when people do 50/50 shots it is normally just of before and after polish with no wax or sealant to fill in things that are left.
Maybe my expectations are to high while being a beginner. Maybe what I have been working on so far just has really really hard clear coat too.
3x (4-5 passes of polish 2 (stronger polish) and orange pad)
2x (4-5 passes of polish 3 (lighter polish) and white pad)
Now I have not applied wax yet so maybe that is the issue but I thought when people do 50/50 shots it is normally just of before and after polish with no wax or sealant to fill in things that are left.
Maybe my expectations are to high while being a beginner. Maybe what I have been working on so far just has really really hard clear coat too.
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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if the car has been repainted, those areas will have harder clearcoats.
what exact products are you using? you may not have enough cutting power in the product you're using with the orange pad. also, as far as technique, make sure the initial passes are slow as shown in the videos on autogeek along with enough pressure.
i've used an orange pad with meg's UC and pressed the DA into the paint of an audi as i worked on it...the clear coat of that thing was significantly harder than honda paint.
what exact products are you using? you may not have enough cutting power in the product you're using with the orange pad. also, as far as technique, make sure the initial passes are slow as shown in the videos on autogeek along with enough pressure.
i've used an orange pad with meg's UC and pressed the DA into the paint of an audi as i worked on it...the clear coat of that thing was significantly harder than honda paint.
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Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
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From: Mooresville, NC
if the car has been repainted, those areas will have harder clearcoats.
what exact products are you using? you may not have enough cutting power in the product you're using with the orange pad. also, as far as technique, make sure the initial passes are slow as shown in the videos on autogeek along with enough pressure.
i've used an orange pad with meg's UC and pressed the DA into the paint of an audi as i worked on it...the clear coat of that thing was significantly harder than honda paint.
what exact products are you using? you may not have enough cutting power in the product you're using with the orange pad. also, as far as technique, make sure the initial passes are slow as shown in the videos on autogeek along with enough pressure.
i've used an orange pad with meg's UC and pressed the DA into the paint of an audi as i worked on it...the clear coat of that thing was significantly harder than honda paint.

On the TSX the car has been completely repainted by this time. It was all done in various stages but it has all been repainted by now. The Buick is factory paint.
When I did my GFs Buick I was using the 6.5in pads that came in the kit. For my car last night I was using the 5in pads you guys suggested that I get.
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I didn't see great results with the optimum stuff I first bought...
the meguiar's M105 on orange followed by 205 on white on the other hand...
given, this is rotary, but you get the point.
the meguiar's M105 on orange followed by 205 on white on the other hand...
given, this is rotary, but you get the point.
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Also just realized you asked about what speed. I was using speeds 4 and 5.
I might have to give that stuff a try then and see if it works better.
I might have to give that stuff a try then and see if it works better.
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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not sure how the griot's products compare to other products.
i like the meg's products a lot. very easy to work with.
i know autogeek has a comparo chart of all the polishes and compounds relative to cutting ability across the brands they carry. scratch X 2.0 is low on the cutting scale.
as far as meg's goes...105 > UC (just a step down from 105)> 205 > UP (this is a guess on where it lands, figured if the UC is just a touch below 105, UP would be just below 205) > scratch X 2.0. the differences in the "ultimate" line and the 105/205, they use different technologies in terms of how they polish, and the ultimate line is found OTC (hence you gotta figure it's relatively idiot proof...you hope) while the 105/205 is the professiona line.
the fact that the TSX has been resprayed...may indicate why you are having a tough time getting some of the RIDs. i have one panel on my TL that was resprayed and that took twice as long to correct as the rest of the car. the clearcoat was a lot harder to cut through. with a little patience i was able to get 90-95% of the RIDs out. i was thrilled not to have ANY swirls in the car before i polished everything out. mostly had sporadic RIDs.
i like the meg's products a lot. very easy to work with.
i know autogeek has a comparo chart of all the polishes and compounds relative to cutting ability across the brands they carry. scratch X 2.0 is low on the cutting scale.
as far as meg's goes...105 > UC (just a step down from 105)> 205 > UP (this is a guess on where it lands, figured if the UC is just a touch below 105, UP would be just below 205) > scratch X 2.0. the differences in the "ultimate" line and the 105/205, they use different technologies in terms of how they polish, and the ultimate line is found OTC (hence you gotta figure it's relatively idiot proof...you hope) while the 105/205 is the professiona line.
the fact that the TSX has been resprayed...may indicate why you are having a tough time getting some of the RIDs. i have one panel on my TL that was resprayed and that took twice as long to correct as the rest of the car. the clearcoat was a lot harder to cut through. with a little patience i was able to get 90-95% of the RIDs out. i was thrilled not to have ANY swirls in the car before i polished everything out. mostly had sporadic RIDs.
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Ok guess I will need to get some of that once I run out. I have several cars planned to do so shouldn't last long then. Also sorry the n00b question but what is RIDs?
Last, the wax that I have right now is Griot's Garage Best of Show which I have heard goes on best with a foam wax pad on my RO. Any reason I shouldn't do this?
Last, the wax that I have right now is Griot's Garage Best of Show which I have heard goes on best with a foam wax pad on my RO. Any reason I shouldn't do this?
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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RIDS= random isolated deeper scratches
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...hind-term.html
love autogeek!
it's the little buggers that are left over that you didn't see before b/c they were covered by the lighter swirls. you get rid fo the swirls then are left with this "random" scratch (fine line if your will). certain light angles will highlight them just when you think you are done with the panel. they are rather annoying.
the wax you have should be fine as the last step. mmm....shiny....soft....smooth...
lol. sorry...there is just something about a shiney car freshly detailed...it's like art.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...hind-term.html
love autogeek!
it's the little buggers that are left over that you didn't see before b/c they were covered by the lighter swirls. you get rid fo the swirls then are left with this "random" scratch (fine line if your will). certain light angles will highlight them just when you think you are done with the panel. they are rather annoying.
the wax you have should be fine as the last step. mmm....shiny....soft....smooth...
lol. sorry...there is just something about a shiney car freshly detailed...it's like art.
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Not that I can think of. There are purists that like applying by hand, but just use a black/red or blue pad to apply it. That'll work. I prefer sticking with polymer based sealants, I don't like the carnauba...it streaks on NBP
I was VERY pleased when I switched over to the meguiar's...it's no nonsense results.
I agree, kick her up to 6 for the compounding...then maybe 5 for polishing...
I was VERY pleased when I switched over to the meguiar's...it's no nonsense results.
I agree, kick her up to 6 for the compounding...then maybe 5 for polishing...
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 44,102
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From: Mooresville, NC
RIDS= random isolated deeper scratches
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...hind-term.html
love autogeek!
it's the little buggers that are left over that you didn't see before b/c they were covered by the lighter swirls. you get rid fo the swirls then are left with this "random" scratch (fine line if your will). certain light angles will highlight them just when you think you are done with the panel. they are rather annoying.
the wax you have should be fine as the last step. mmm....shiny....soft....smooth...
lol. sorry...there is just something about a shiney car freshly detailed...it's like art.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...hind-term.html
love autogeek!
it's the little buggers that are left over that you didn't see before b/c they were covered by the lighter swirls. you get rid fo the swirls then are left with this "random" scratch (fine line if your will). certain light angles will highlight them just when you think you are done with the panel. they are rather annoying.
the wax you have should be fine as the last step. mmm....shiny....soft....smooth...
lol. sorry...there is just something about a shiney car freshly detailed...it's like art.I agree it is very satisfying feeling and definitely feels like a masterpiece when you are finished. That is the reason I got the kit in the first place so I could do it more often since it should be a little faster than doing everything by hand and feeling like my arm was going to fall off when finished.
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