07 WDP Tl-S: Crazy red / black spots in paint that won't go away!!
10-12-2010, 05:50 PM
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07 WDP Tl-S: Crazy red / black spots in paint that won't go away!!
So I picked up my TL-S on Saturday and finally got it home today to Wax.
I used meguiars 3 stage paint process. (Paint Cleaner, Paint Polish, and Wax)
After I washed the car I saw all these black / red looking spots, some look like rust, some look like black dots. I got the paint cleaner out and rubbed and rubbed and rubbed in circular motions and none of the spots came out. I did Polish and wax too and they're still everywhere.
On my previous car (acura integra type-R Phoenix yellow) after I did this process my car was smooth as butter but when I rub my hand over the hood on my TL I can still feel like there is something stuck to the paint.
Anyone experience this problem? I purchased it with 30k miles Certified Pre Owned from Acura.. I don't know what else to do!
I used meguiars 3 stage paint process. (Paint Cleaner, Paint Polish, and Wax)
After I washed the car I saw all these black / red looking spots, some look like rust, some look like black dots. I got the paint cleaner out and rubbed and rubbed and rubbed in circular motions and none of the spots came out. I did Polish and wax too and they're still everywhere.
On my previous car (acura integra type-R Phoenix yellow) after I did this process my car was smooth as butter but when I rub my hand over the hood on my TL I can still feel like there is something stuck to the paint.
Anyone experience this problem? I purchased it with 30k miles Certified Pre Owned from Acura.. I don't know what else to do!
10-12-2010, 07:05 PM
#5
Clay bar should do the trick. I used to have a white tC before I got my TL and the spots from "fall out" were very noticable. Meguiar's clay bar always did the trick on getting it back to its super white shine! Make sure you follow up with a wax when your done too.
10-13-2010, 05:28 AM
#7
Racer
I found some videos on YouTube supporting this products claims. Only problem I've only noticed is that the dealers are in Europe.
CarPro Iron X (AQuartz) - car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys). Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away.
This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt
Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) formulated in permanent wave lotion
It is really interesting to see the amount of iron particles residue that will be dissolved by Iron X, despite having clayed the car before hand. This product definitely offers advancement in paintwork decontamination
CarPro Iron X (AQuartz) - car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys). Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away.
This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt
Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) formulated in permanent wave lotion
It is really interesting to see the amount of iron particles residue that will be dissolved by Iron X, despite having clayed the car before hand. This product definitely offers advancement in paintwork decontamination
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10-13-2010, 09:56 AM
#9
Suzuka Master
I found some videos on YouTube supporting this products claims. Only problem I've only noticed is that the dealers are in Europe.
CarPro Iron X (AQuartz) - car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys). Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away.
This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt
Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) formulated in permanent wave lotion
It is really interesting to see the amount of iron particles residue that will be dissolved by Iron X, despite having clayed the car before hand. This product definitely offers advancement in paintwork decontamination
CarPro Iron X (AQuartz) - car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys). Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away.
This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt
Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) formulated in permanent wave lotion
It is really interesting to see the amount of iron particles residue that will be dissolved by Iron X, despite having clayed the car before hand. This product definitely offers advancement in paintwork decontamination
10-13-2010, 09:59 AM
#10
Suzuka Master
Problem I see with all these replys is no one said lets determine what we are dealing with .. is it fallout? Is it paint over spray? is it tar mist? I doubt its rail dust cuz its usually not that predominant on the hood.
Untill it can be determined what it is how can we recommend a solution?
Untill it can be determined what it is how can we recommend a solution?
10-13-2010, 10:56 AM
#11
Problem I see with all these replys is no one said lets determine what we are dealing with .. is it fallout? Is it paint over spray? is it tar mist? I doubt its rail dust cuz its usually not that predominant on the hood.
Untill it can be determined what it is how can we recommend a solution?
Untill it can be determined what it is how can we recommend a solution?
10-13-2010, 12:32 PM
#13
Well, we won't know til the OP post up his living/working situation.
If he's works or lives near a factory then it's probably industrial fallout.
Lives near the beach, then the sea salt may have been eating away his paint.
etc etc... you guys get the point
If he's works or lives near a factory then it's probably industrial fallout.
Lives near the beach, then the sea salt may have been eating away his paint.
etc etc... you guys get the point
10-13-2010, 03:21 PM
#14
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I took the car to a detailer today who felt the car several times with his hands and said it seemed like overspray and he believed a clay bar would take it out
10-13-2010, 03:31 PM
#15
Racer
10-13-2010, 04:05 PM
#17
http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-De...uide/Clay-Bar/
The process is honestly fairly simple, and you don't need to use the whole piece of clay. You can divide the clay into 3 smaller pieces so if you accidentally drop one, you still have 2 small pieces left.
10-13-2010, 06:44 PM
#19
Former Sponsor
Whoa whoa whoa, time out.....
Why experiment with something new when you havent even established a point of reference. Dale brings up a very valid point, however, my instincts tell me try clay first, you have to start somewhere. Let it be done with a proven product. Im not really going out on a limb here am I guys?
Why experiment with something new when you havent even established a point of reference. Dale brings up a very valid point, however, my instincts tell me try clay first, you have to start somewhere. Let it be done with a proven product. Im not really going out on a limb here am I guys?
10-13-2010, 07:30 PM
#20
KBPftmfw
Whoa whoa whoa, time out.....
Why experiment with something new when you havent even established a point of reference. Dale brings up a very valid point, however, my instincts tell me try clay first, you have to start somewhere. Let it be done with a proven product. Im not really going out on a limb here am I guys?
Why experiment with something new when you havent even established a point of reference. Dale brings up a very valid point, however, my instincts tell me try clay first, you have to start somewhere. Let it be done with a proven product. Im not really going out on a limb here am I guys?
10-15-2010, 06:12 AM
#21
Whoa whoa whoa, time out.....
Why experiment with something new when you havent even established a point of reference. Dale brings up a very valid point, however, my instincts tell me try clay first, you have to start somewhere. Let it be done with a proven product. Im not really going out on a limb here am I guys?
Why experiment with something new when you havent even established a point of reference. Dale brings up a very valid point, however, my instincts tell me try clay first, you have to start somewhere. Let it be done with a proven product. Im not really going out on a limb here am I guys?
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